I had a puzzling weekend..I am trying to remove a calliper which is partially seized to either get serviced by this company

Pics of the caliper / discs are below. The hubs are Triumph and the callipers are AP 4 potters. It looks as though because of how the calliper is mounted to the supporting plate, I need to undo the centre bearing nut and take off the complete unit to get the calliper off. Does this sound right?
If so what process do I need to go through for tightening the centre nut when replacing the complete unit, eg is there a torque?

https://picasaweb.google.com/108950503714571978236/Jan182016?authuser=0&authkey=Gv1sRgCN-qy8makpvPOw&feat=directlink

http://www.brakecaliperspecialists.uk/brake-caliper-refurbishment/

or will replace the seals my self

Hope the link to the pictures works :-)

Alex

On a normal Triumph set-up there are two caliper retaining bolts top and bottom at the back of the caliper.
In your photo there's a big bolt, albeit sticking out, just in front of the metal balance pipe.
Are you sure this isn't the retaining bolt?
Looks like there's only one bolt though....
HTH.
Cheers, Pewe10

as pewe says,that bolt looks a bit of a bodge to me but it,s in the right place for the top bolt.

Looks like the calliper mounts are outside the uprights in the pics, and rather different to a normal spitfire etc setup.
However, you may indeed need to take the hub off the stub axle. I am guessing the boltheads are the disc side of the calliper to get clearance? In the Triumph application the upright is threaded. (although I am beginning to doubt my own sanity now!) but that may have been drilled out.

It you undo the hub nut, regrease teh taper bearings when re-assembling, and nip the bearing up tight. Just. Then back off a fraction to the first position you can get a new splitpin in. usually a choice of two holes, so about 1/2 a flat. There should be a very tiny amount of play you can feel with the wheel attached.

quote:

---

Originally posted by cliftyhanger In the Triumph application the upright is threaded. (although I am beginning to doubt my own sanity now!)

---

Looks like a homebrew conversion Princess calipers on a GT6/Vitessse upright.


After slakening the caliper retaining nuts will need to take the dust cap off remove the split pin remove the bearing retaining nut, catch the outer bearing and thrust washer in a clean dry cloth as you pull the hub outwards.

Refitting is the reverse but make sure you keep the taper roller bearing free from grit, bearing adjustment is simple lightly tighten the big hub nut spin the hub a couple of turns then slacken the nut back 1/3 to 1/2 a turn and replace the split pin.

Thanks Guys you are spot on in your replies... I will go for it with more confidence now!

As I thought I will need to take the hub off as the calipers are on the disc side of the mounting. There are two calliper mounting bolts

Cheers
Alex

quote:

---

Originally posted by gremlin1234

quote:

---

Originally posted by cliftyhanger In the Triumph application the upright is threaded. (although I am beginning to doubt my own sanity now!)

---

yea the normal triumph ones are threaded in the casting
http://www.rimmerbros.co.uk/Item--i-GSJ266
we really need to see the bottom mounting as well.
my current thought is they might be herald drum brake uprights,
also looks likely to be a real pain to blead the brakes.

---

quote:

---

Originally posted by britishtrident

quote:

---

Originally posted by gremlin1234

quote:

---

Originally posted by cliftyhanger In the Triumph application the upright is threaded. (although I am beginning to doubt my own sanity now!)

---

yea the normal triumph ones are threaded in the casting
http://www.rimmerbros.co.uk/Item--i-GSJ266
we really need to see the bottom mounting as well.
my current thought is they might be herald drum brake uprights,
also looks likely to be a real pain to blead the brakes.

---

It is Vitesse/GT setup different from the Herald/Spitfire ---- unlike the he Herald caliper bracket was bolt on and a beefer stub axle.

---

I have a picture of the hub below.... it was xxxxxx cold in the garage this evening for us weak southerns!

https://goo.gl/photos/PbxwfLkz9dUp2JzN8

Hope this shows enough?

Cheers
Alex

Also planned to buy a grease gun and lubricate the hull with the grease nipples... some where I heard that using gearbox oil is preferable to grease. Has alone else heard this?
Alex

Not as far as I know.
What do require oil rather than grease ( if they are still Tiumph) are the lower swivels ( IIRC also known as trunnions)
HTH
Cheers, Pewe10

oil for the trunion, grease for the wheel baring

Gear oil but not hypoid gear oil.

Hypoid gear oil erodes copper-zinc alloys

I meant the trunnion not the wheel hearing... thanks I did not know about the Hypoid gear oil!

is a grease gun with oil in the best method for this bearing? If so how do you stop it going everywhere?

Alex

Just brought a Clarke 120cc grease gun so will give it a go this w/end!
Alex

Does anyone recognise the callipers (other than APM Lockhead!) and where can I get a calliper seal reconditioning kit??

Godspeed have quoted £90 for one kit (the callipers were original brought from them... :-( ).

Cheers
Alex

Try Brake Parts normally pretty helpful.
Cheers, Pewe10

Hi Pewe, thanks! Tried them and they could not help :-(... they wanted a make of car etc as these are none std does not help!
Questmead are also trying .
Alex

I'm not certain but they look like Austin Princess calipers.
If you google "show me Austin Princess calipers" there's a pic and the markings look very similar.
Brake parts should then be able to help or there's Past Parts who do a wide range.
Cheers, Pewe10