I'm currently building on a Lolocost Chassis ( big mistake but that's another story !!!) Anyway, the position of the steering rack means that to keep the arms in line with the bottom wishbones, I need to reverse the end ball joints ie they need to go into the steering arms from the top not the bottom. Ergo, I need to reverse the taper in the SA. Does anyone know what the taper is ? I saw the muppet vet on the telly doing this on his "Self built ??"( I think not ) Pilgrim Cobra and I'm sure he said he was using a 7 degree taper drill. However, my local engineering supplier looked blank when I asked for one and said these drills get measured as a ratio not an angle. ie 1 in 50 or 1 in 48 etc. I've forgotten my O level maths so cant work out if either of these is 7 degrees. If indeed 7 degrees is correct !! Anyone got any ideas ?
Cheers
J.J

Ps All the above bits are Sierra....sorry

[Edited on 1/11/02 by JONESJ]

I've never heard of people having to re-drill steering arms, but if it is true then surely the first people to ask are the providers of the kit, who should have this information at their fingertips.
It does sound rather far-fetched to me

John

Hi JONESJ, your right i saw that episode on the cobra myself. if memory serves me right he used a tapered 7 degree reamer not a drill, all it means is you loose 50% of the internal contact of the taper. and if pilgrim say it,s okay then i assume it,s legal to do it. cheers davef.

To "Interested ( but not very helpful )Party"...Robin Hood/Lolocost Engineering seem to have very little "at their fingertips" they couldn't help with the fact that the pinto alternator doesn't fit in their I.R.S Chassis ( with the help of this site I solved that one. Nor that their "custom" exhaust manifold don't fit either ( so I made me own )...I gave up on them some time ago.... Their attitude seems to be " you haven't bought a kit you've bought a chassis go sort it out yourself " See reply from Dave F in SA looks like we've both learned something today.


Thanks DaveF.....I knew I hadn't dreamt it !
[Edited on 1/11/02 by JONESJ]

[Edited on 1/11/02 by JONESJ]

To Jones(but not very polite)J. Sorry I couldn't answer your question. I was unaware of the fact that you didn't want to ring RH about this

John

whats up with yer chassis jonesj. im suprised alternator/manifold dont fit. tell me all about it if you want

To Jones(BNVP)J, here's some info I got from another forum just now-

"Hi john,
Aparently a 7 deg taper drill will do the jobbie, or as the book says use an old track rod end. When i did mine i cut the flat bit off the rod end and popped the chrome bit out. This is much easier with a grinder. Flatten the round end and then cut across to make a screw head. then place a screw driver bit in your drill and put some grinding paste where the track rod end goes in upside down and turn away. Mine took about 10 secs per side to get the rod end through. Be carefull not to go too far as it will be a whole new hub.

HTH

Kelvin"

John

Yep its a 7 degree taper drill,just found the info in an old pilgrim sumo build manual in my hefty and one day skip bound archives.

The book says 7 degree taper drill or a 7 degree taper shaft.

I'm a bit confused by this though,is the rack mount not in the right place then?

[Edited on 1/11/02 by bob]

Thanks Bob
I'll try and get hold of a 7 degree taper reamer as suggested by DaveF ..The steering rack bracket on the Lo-locost chassis is pre-welded by them and puts the line of the rack above the steering arms when the suspension is 'neutral'. So ,to minimise "bump steer" and to follow the line of the bottom wishbones (brackets,also welded in by Lo-locost) I reckon the ends need to be above the steering arms. Trouble is , I haven't yet found anyone else who's built on one of these Lo-locost IRS Chassis and Lo-locost are about as much help as woodworm in a cripples crutch so I'm busking it a bit. I might try and drop the rack a bit but this would involve cutting through the two front tubes the current bracket is glued to and I reckoned reversing the tapers would be easier.
Thanks for your feedback anyway
Cheers
J.J

[Edited on 1/11/02 by JONESJ]

[Edited on 2/11/02 by JONESJ]

To Bsilly
Lo-loco themselves admit the problems with aternator position and their four branch Pinto manifold but couldn't really offer an answer. Thanks for the offer of help anyway, but these two issues are sorted now. As I said, I made me own 4 Branch and, as suggested by a helpful chap on this site, used a Diahatsu Hijet Alternator which fitted brill'
Cheers and all the best with your build

[Edited on 1/11/02 by JONESJ]

[Edited on 1/11/02 by JONESJ]

ok . ive got similar chassis and avent had probs you describe. just thought summat wasnt right ..... but if yer sorted out thats good ..:):)

Jonesj,
It's a common misnomer that the tierods must lie parallel with the top/bottom wishbone. It's quite a complex issue.
Before you go to all the bother of altering your steering arms, just assemble the rack and tierods/steering arms, and set everything at ride height as it should be (but without the shocks in place), and with the wheels pointing dead ahead.
Cycle the suspension up and down, and have someone stand directly above the wheels to check the wheels alignment with a straight edge laid on the floor, parallel with the chassis. That'll show up any bump steer.
You may just be in luck (Lolocost may know what they're doing), and the rack may be spot on.