Cheers,
James
I would like to post a photo of the upright but can't seem to get it to work. Whats the trick.
Upload it to your photo archive, then copy and paste the writing underneath the photo into your post.
Adam
Make sure the picture is saved as a jpg.
I seem to have no trouble with posting pics on hear straight from my hard disk, so no need for putting them in photo arcive first.
You need to click the "Browse" button at the bottom of the page. This will pop up a file open box (just like opening a file in Word)
allowing you to select an image file from your hard disc.
The button on the toolbar with an icon indication a picture is for picking a picture from the web - do not use this
Year thats exactly what I did but I just get the page unavailable screen.
Bruce.
Maybe you could shrink the picture a little- so it doesn't fill my entire 1600*1200 screen!
Cheers,
James
I think that is the trouble. You have obviously found where managed to post it to the photo archive, where I found that although I had reduced the
quality and size of the file the actual size of the picture was still large. I have now worked out how to reduce the size and wiil post it
following.
Bruce
hopefully this works.
Rescued attachment Suspension upright.jpg
Thank C****t that worked.
As you can see this picture is from the side minus the wheel for clarity. The brazing rod is on the centre line which means that I need a bracket that
will pick up the two bolt holes and provide a taper for the ball joint. The line is probably only 25mm from the rim, which is possibly closer than the
photo sugests.
The bolts are 14mm if you need a scale.
I need to draw an acurate diagram and also get hold of a ball joint to get the size as I was thinking spacing the wheel out slightly would not only
give me slightly more room but also change the point of contact on the road.
It all comes back to how much scrub radius is ideal and what tolerance can you put up with.
Thanks guys for your patience with me while I frigged around with the photo.
Bruce
How about using a vertically oriented "rose" joint for the top balljoint and capturing it between two plates bolted through the strut mount
holes?
Or, a horizontally oriented one bolted to a U-shaped bracket.
Cheers, Ted
This is what I did with an MR2 upright...
Alan,
What is your upper ball joint from?
If I understand the photo, you have fabricated a right-angle bracket that bolts vertically to the top of the upright (through the holes that the strut
originally bolted to), and the balljoint bolts through the top of the bracket. There is a tapered hole in the top wishbone for the balljoint
swivel.
This sounds like a good solution for any upright with a bolt-on strut 
, but I've wondered how to choose the right balljoint. What
criteria/resources did you use to select it?
Thanks,
Bryan.
Thanks guys for the responce.
Ted, a rose joint in any orientation is out of the question as far as my engineer is concerned. this was my first thought as I'd seen it done
before and would have worked.
Alan, the upside down solution looks OK I guess you would have to watch that you still have clearance in droop. You do lose the adjustability of the
threaded joints though.
Thanks for the sugestion
quote:
Originally posted by Nisseven
Alan, the upside down solution looks OK I guess you would have to watch that you still have clearance in droop. You do lose the adjustability of the threaded joints though.
Thanks for the sugestion
If you used the same method as Alan has above, but use a BJ with a spigot (see below) as opposed to a tapered stud, you wouldn't need to worry about machining or reaming a taper socket in the wishbone.[pg=]
quote:
Originally posted by locost_bryan
Alan,
What is your upper ball joint from?
If I understand the photo, you have fabricated a right-angle bracket that bolts vertically to the top of the upright (through the holes that the strut originally bolted to), and the balljoint bolts through the top of the bracket. There is a tapered hole in the top wishbone for the balljoint swivel.
This sounds like a good solution for any upright with a bolt-on strut
Thanks,
Bryan.
quote:
Originally posted by andkilde
quote:
Originally posted by Nisseven
Alan, the upside down solution looks OK I guess you would have to watch that you still have clearance in droop. You do lose the adjustability of the threaded joints though.
Thanks for the sugestion
You could gain back the adjustability (using Alan's method) by using camber bolts.
Cheers, Ted
[Edited on 27/4/05 by andkilde]
Quick question, I understand the Kiwis and Aussies have to meet rigorous engineering inspections in order to get their cars registered but, is there
something inheritly unsafe about using properly configured rose joints?
Or is it simply that the extra inspection and maintenance they require a deal killer?
Cheers, Ted
quote:
Originally posted by andkilde
Quick question, I understand the Kiwis and Aussies have to meet rigorous engineering inspections in order to get their cars registered but, is there something inheritly unsafe about using properly configured rose joints?
Or is it simply that the extra inspection and maintenance they require a deal killer?
Cheers, Ted
I'm not sure why my engineer will not allow a rose joint as a top outer all I know is he said no! I would rather use a ball joint anyway so
didn't really argue.
Rorty, what is the ball joint from that you illustrated?
Bruce
quote:
Originally posted by Nisseven
Rorty, what is the ball joint from that you illustrated?
Bruce