Time to look at mounting the Sierra diff. So two more questions! :

On the Sierra it's mounted with a rubber bush at the back and four additional bolts (2 long, 2 short) at the front/top.

MK appear to mount theirs just using the front/top but a picture in The Book uses the bushed bolts as well.

Can I get away with using just the four front/top bolts or do you think it needs the rear as well?

Also, how substantial would you make the diff mounts? Mk use what appears to be two brackets off 5mm plate. Is this over engineered?

Thanks,

James

James,

Looking in a wes*****d build manual i seemed to have aquired, they use two long through bolts at the front of the diff and rubber bushed stabiliser bracket at the back, as for the mounts i'd follow MK they know what they are doing.

Dan

The avon uses just the two long bolts, the diff is solid enough.

if i recall, the rear mount also has something to do with the suspension subframe mounting.

I used all of them on my car, but its possible the front four are fine.

atb

steve


there is a school of thought as to if its worth rubber mounting the diff. I didnt.

James,

I bought the Avon book to see (amongst other things) how they mounted theirs (having already mounted mine).

They appear to use four 1 1/5 sq. in. (ish) bits of steel welded to chassis.

I used 3mm plate cut to similar shape as Sierra subframe diff bkt and also put in a piece for the rear rubber mounted bush (which I don't think is really necessary - on Sierra, subframe would rotate around "axle" if bracket wasn't there.

ATB

Simon

just the two bolts you can see in the pic
Rescued attachment Diff.JPG

Hello tim

I'm interested to know where your handbrake cables run in the avon,i'm building the indy and mine are tight over the diff.

If i fit the hanbrake lever where tiger suggest (right under my left elbow) then they do run tight to the top of the diff, something i am not over the moon about, must come up with a plan B

There is a way round this for me,i've taken a grinder to the top of diff where bolt runs through.This makes the angle for cable a bit easier,i'll try and get a camera and post a pic.
I've replaced the long bolt with 2 allen bolts fed from the inside of cavity in diff housing.
Hope this may be of help

Thanks Bob but routing the cables doesn't worry me, what does is banging my elbow with rapid lock to lock momments

quote:

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Originally posted by Viper
Thanks Bob but routing the cables doesn't worry me, what does is banging my elbow with rapid lock to lock momments

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i think thats about the only place to put it other than under your knees transversley

I'm using all the front mounts for my diff. Just the ones vipers using ought to be fine, but why the hell not use the front ones too - just another couple of bits of plate to weld in.

I'm using some 5mm plate cos thats what I've got.

Liam

Oh, and mine's solid mounted too (as will be my front diff). Rubber mounting is for sloppy production cars.

[Edited on 29/11/02 by Liam]

James

Sorry for hijacking the post with handbrake cable stuff,i reckon you will find it all relevent as its all in the same area.

Thanks for the info people.

Have spent part of this afternoon making up a couple of 5mm plates (MK style) to support it but having seen the picture Viper put up realised I could have done a much better (lighter! solution ).

Bob,
No problems- it's all useful stuff for some part of the build.

Viper,
Thanks for the picture- that's how I should have done it! How did you get such a great looking diff? I've pressure washed mine which helped but it's still got a lot of oxidisation on it- did you sand blast after Gunking or something? Could I use the same process for gearbox?
What paint did you use?

Thanks,

James

went to halfords and bought a detailing brush kit (wire brushes size of a tooth brush) lots of elbow grease with gunk to remove oily crud then pressure washed it. To remove the corrosion i then the used same elbow grease with old battery acid (be bloody carefull, don't need to tell you why) and marigolds then another power wash, then silver smoothright...

quote:

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Originally posted by Liam
Oh, and mine's solid mounted too (as will be my front diff). Rubber mounting is for sloppy production cars.

[Edited on 29/11/02 by Liam]

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the diff in our Tuscan challenge car is solid mounted and that produces 460bhp ...

quote:

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Originally posted by Viper
went to halfords and bought a detailing brush kit (wire brushes size of a tooth brush) lots of elbow grease with gunk to remove oily crud then pressure washed it. To remove the corrosion i then the used same elbow grease with old battery acid (be bloody carefull, don't need to tell you why) and marigolds then another power wash, then silver smoothright...

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you don't need undercoat or laquer with smoothright. (hammerright smooth) thats the why i used it..

one spray can will do your bellhousing , diff and box

quote:

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Originally posted by Viper
you don't need undercoat or laquer with smoothright. (hammerright smooth) thats the why i used it..

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quote:

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Originally posted by James
Might try acid tonight.

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quote:

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I wouldn't, not in the garage anway, a bad trip could see all those components turn into carnivorous animals

Try a good strong spliff instead

John

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Nice one!

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James - 4/12/02 at 05:03 PM

quote:

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Originally posted by Viper
you don't need undercoat or laquer with smoothright. (hammerright smooth) thats the why i used it..

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Actually the spray can does appear to suggest with ally you should use their (special metals?)primer before.
But I take it you think it's ok without?

Thanks,

James

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Viper - 4/12/02 at 07:01 PM

you would normaly need the undercoat to etch into the metal, but your diff being a casting the surface is not smooth so the paint will stick... mine did...

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stephen_gusterson - 4/12/02 at 10:29 PM

so hamerrite is working for you Viper?

After using it a bit I have decided its crap.

Its like painting with epoxy glue. It chips off and it streaks. It also takes 6 weeks between coats. According the the website, if an objects too hot to touch, its too hot for hammerite.

not very good really.

I used it on my bell housing and engine brackets, and I think next time I will use something else.

atb


steve

[Edited on 4/12/02 by stephen_gusterson]

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Viper - 4/12/02 at 10:38 PM

I have used smoothrite on engine blocks in the past paint stayed on didn't even fade and it was easy to keep clean....go figure.

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