sorry for the separate post here but i need an answer if there is one quick sharp 
after my failure before i picked up the yellow pages and started phoneing ive found a 4x4 model in a scrap yard but its only the 2.0 one how can i
tell if its the LSD diff on it ?? ford cant even tell by looking at there computers, now my thinking is that normal diff ones have the push in style
drive shafts ?? and the LSD ones use the bolt on jobbies or can it be a normal diff but with rear disk brakes ????
lol i really dont wanna by an normal one and go round thinking its lsd looool
The LSDs had bolt on drive shafts i believe. Also if you hold the input shaft still and turn one of the wheel shafts the other should turn in the same
direction. If it turns the opposite direct you have a normal diff, doubly so if it has the push in shafts.
David
cheers buddy some scrapy near dersingham so not to big a drive
parts ordered £85 + vat for the whole lot incl bolts bargin
2.0 litre diff may be 3.92 ratio.
Only real way to check if it IS a LSD is to take the back off and check.
Use new allen bolts instead of the torx drive things to fasten the drive shafts on.
HTH
Mark
and not all bolt on diffs are LSD. it needs to come from a 4x4. Someone said that the code on the tag should have two A's in it if it is LSD, position not important.
definatly a 4x4 one but its only the 2.0 engine, i shall look for the aa mark when i go to collect on monday
keep umm coming lol 
seems like every scrap yard i ring knows exactly what im building, they all like building a kit car eh .... im supprised the prices are not inflated
becuase of people constantly being after these parts??
The only know round our area due to Tiger and Luego being in such close proximity and probably nicking most of the decent donor bits that go in
It should be a 3.92 lsd.
Check box (10) of the underbonnet Vin Plate
M=3.14 ( 7" or 7.5" )
A=3.36 ( 7.5" )
V=3.38 ( 7" )
U=3.62 ( 7" )
3=3.64 ( 7.5" )
9=3.91 ( 7.5" )
D=3.92 ( 7" )
Also take a look at this for reference.
The metal tag on the diff (if its still there) will have 'MC' on it if its open (non lsd). If there is an 'A' in the code then
it's got an LSD.
The ratio will also be contained in the letters/numbers on the tag i.e 392.
However you still can't take these as gospel as i've personally seen incorrect information on both vins and diff tags where they are from
the factory.
Cheers
G
[Edited on 25/6/05 by Mr G]
The easiest way to check (as tags etc may be missing or unreadable) is the rotation mentioned earlier. Open diffs will rotate drive shafts in opposite directions when one is turned, lsd's they turn the same way. Easy to check when the diff is still on the car provided both sides are jacked up.
quote:
Originally posted by andyps
Open diffs will rotate drive shafts in opposite directions when one is turned, lsd's they turn the same way. Easy to check when the diff is still on the car provided both sides are jacked up.
quote:
Originally posted by gazza285
quote:
Originally posted by andyps
Open diffs will rotate drive shafts in opposite directions when one is turned, lsd's they turn the same way. Easy to check when the diff is still on the car provided both sides are jacked up.
That works for plate LSDs, but doesn't work for viscous ones unless you turn the shaft quickly enough.
[Edited on 25/6/05 by gazza285]
if you take both wheels of then it is more likely to turn the same way, due to the reduced angular moment (rotational inertia if you prefer). I find
that with the weight of the wheels on, it doesnt usually turn the opposite wheel.
With the diff bare though, i found that it does tend to move both together, and as it was a bit oily it wasnt too easy to turn the against each other.
looking forward to collecting monday and getting some pics up of it, fingers crossed
theres a main washer / o ring on differentials isnt there ? is it worth renewing? also is there oil in these things or just grease ? the computers at
work said oil ep80/90
They are filled with oil Ep90 is standard for transmission. Not sure how much they take though.
no real need to replace seals unless they leak. Make sure it has enough new oil, and it should be fine.
LSD's take 1 litre.
i checked the vin plate it was D so that going by your vin plate guide equates to a 3.92 LSD... so youd think id be happy... noooo
i got there 80 miles round trip and they had left all the lower chassis / trailing arm / a frame what ever it is all attached how the hell was that
gunna fit in my little megane coupe! they said they didnt wanna rip my leather seats so i couldnt collect the bits !! now i gotta wait two weeks for
my next day off and take my tool kit down there and take umm apart i still think they should dismantle it for me they say its gunna take to long !
gits
looked like allen key style nuts holding on the drive shafts ? any tools you guys reccomned me taking just so i dont get stuck with out tools in the
middle of norfolk might have to invest in a haynes manual
You'll be lucky to get the Torx bolts off easily.
Best thing to do is grind 'em off and just replace them with Allan key socket caps at 10p a shot.
Other than those it's pretty simple. The 13mm hub to carrier bolts can be pretty tough so be prepared to round them off too.
You may need a drift to get the long top and bottom bolts out through the diff.
Also, take some sheeting with you as it'll all be dirty as hell and you don't wanna wreck your interior!
Oh, and if you wanna change the bearings then you'll need to undo the 41mm hub nuts. These need minimum 220lb/ft so it's easier to do with
the thing still in the trailing arm/ A frame. (Easier still in the car with the wheels on! ).
Take a mate with you!
HTH,
James
i used an impact wrench on my driver shaft bolts - it broke halfway through. it is much easier with a grinder (thin disc!) but i wanted to be quiet for the neighbours. not a problem in a scrap yard!!!!
You're gonna have to undo the hubnuts and disengage the hubs in order to get the shaft and hub/hub carrier free of the trailing arm. Pretty sure
that's the case having done a few but i could be wrong.
Hopefully the scrappy has an air impact gun with a 41mm socket you can borrow, which will make that easy (what kind of scrappy wont??). Otherwise
it's gonna be rather tough with the assembly already removed.
Bring cold chisels, crow bars, large hammers etc and prepare for a lot of levering and bashing. The long diff bolts will never come out
without being drifted nearly all the way! So bring something long and thinner than an m12 bolt - big old phillips screwdriver maybe.
Should only take an hour or so if you have the right tools. I even chisselled round all the driveshaft bolts, but as james says you may be better off
grinding off the heads. Having said that try the torx bit (T40) first - you may get lucky. I remember one sierra shaft I did and all the bolts
popped off nicely without destroying my torx bit!! Very rare occurence by all accounts though.
Good luck
liam
[Edited on 28/6/05 by Liam]
ive got a long day it would appear on saterday then lol first at 8 im going to my mates to get him and his landrover then we going to load the diff
complete with shocks and a frames and hubs / discs striaght into the back of his landy then back to mine! then into my meggy and off to MK sportscars
for a test drive lol me and me mate granted we still got some saving but we both wanna buy a kit at the same time thus two kits of similiar design
from same company but different look, maybe we get some discount for two kits looooooool
them hub nuts will i be able to get it up on to a vice ! tighten it up and breaker bar the hub nuts off ????
quote:
Originally posted by Richard Y
them hub nuts will i be able to get it up on to a vice ! tighten it up and breaker bar the hub nuts off ????
The easiest way if the scrappy wont undo em is come home via a garage and get them to blast em off. Worth a fiver they is tight.
lol im getting the impression they is tight loool
i got a few months before i can get the doner car on the drive so im not in any hurry just wanted to get some of the more difficult parts since they
was only a hour away and 85 squids! bargin
me buddy couldnt come for test drive today as he was on call instead we only went in his landy to get the rear axle assembly ! i shall post a pic in a
bit... hehe suffice to say the rear axle hub nuts look well and truly on there someone mentioned further up a 41 mm socket ???? is that right as gotta
get one from halfords tommorow?
got a snap on air impact gun of me mate kev (cheers buddy 
) turns out though its a different conection to my cheapy netto compressor hopefully to
be rectified on monday !
other than that looks ok im hoping that its all the right stuff!!! lol
it is indeed a 41mm socket. whilst you're shopping, you may as well get a hardcore half inch breaker bar - the air wrench probably wont work, a
10mm diameter short air hose would help, but mine isnt up for much looser bolts, never mind hub nuts. Its quite easy with 2 people and a long
extension (at least 3 feet!). Make sure you get the thread direction right, as one is left handed. The last few threads should protrude through the
nut, so its easy to se which is which.
ps, be careful having the cv joints pressed at a big angle, im sure its bad for them
lol was only two of us and its damn heavy!! hehe its only like that today but i guess its the down side to getting second hand stuff eh hopefully
though when i get it sorted tommorow striped to bits etc all looks good
got a breaker bar 3 foot job so should do the job but the snap on impact things meant to shift up to 500 nm apprently lol !!! so we shall see but ill
give the bar a go tommorow
ill make sure i get the directions right
Oh at least the diff is already free of it's bracket - that's something.
The trouble with a breaker bar is stopping the shaft just turning. Just persevere with the impact gun on it's highest setting. It may seem at
first that it's not up to the job and wont move the nut at all, but each impact is helping and eventually it will spin off.
The near/passenger/left side is the one with the reverse thread - dont sit there for five minutes tightening it up!
Good luck
Liam
quote:
Originally posted by Richard Y
a 41 mm socket ???? is that right as gotta get one from halfords tommorow?
lol yes mate got in there sunday and none in there lol indulged in some wd 40 and a hanynes for a sierra to make my self feel better
get in there
got it all disasembled, with out a 41 mm socket as well i shall let you all try and guess how looool
im curious how the hub i now have attachs to the space frame chassis ???
