anyone notice differences when changing from minerla to synthetic engine oil? namely stuff like lower running temperature:

(is synthetic ok on older engines like crossflow?)

bumpf from red line oil

quote:

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Better High Temperature Lubrication.
The polymeric viscosity additives used in petroleum and synthetic petroleum oils contain very large molecules which suffer from thermal cracking at high temperatures. They form organic acids, corrosive to metals and varnish deposits. These deposits reduce the ability of the metal to transfer heat, gum up the ring area causing ring sticking and blow-by and further overheat the oil. The high stability of Red LineŽ not only reduces oil consumption, but has a significant effect on bore lubrication, especially in the upper ring area which will see temperatures in excess of 300oC, temperatures where only the polyol esters can give excellent lubrication.

Wear Reduction.
Red LineŽ oil provides a much reduced wear rate compared to petroleum oils or other synthetics. The reduced friction of the polyol ester basestock means less heat is generated, so temperatures are reduced, wear is reduced and more power is transferred to the wheels.

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i use it in my vectra just because it makes the service every 20k lol lazy eh ?

i'm told they rev free'er

[Edited on 20/7/06 by graememk]

A lot of the claims made for synthetic are utter tosh. It certainly is a tougher oil and can withstand higher temperatures etc. but even with mineral oil there should be minimal friction in the bearings if the oil pressure and bearing cleanaces are correct. I always use it on my MR2 turbo and my Civic VTi mainly because they are quite stressed engines and I tend to thrash them!

The typical viscosities that synthetic is easily available in is too low for the xflow IMO (e.g. 5W30 or 0W30). You can get higher viscosity synthetic, but you'll probably have to order it.

i tought that it wasn´t suited because of materials choices on old engines, cast iron etc.

also syntetic has adictives like teflon wich wasn´t good for those materials.. i would do it.

wy change if it works fine now_

quote:

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Originally posted by tks

wy change if it works fine now

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I've said this many times, but...

We've run full synthetic for many years in my youngsters grasstrack mini's. They get completely thrashed, with gear changes at 7k+, and regularly see 7k+ at the ends of the small straights.

Never had an engine failure, and when freshening up in the winter, there have never been any signs of adverse wear or corrosion which could be attributed to the oil. If anything, quite the opposite.

Remember, these are 1950's technology A series engines. Cast iron and all that old stuff.

This belief that old engines need mineral oil is entirely uninformed heresay.( I was gonna say CRAP, but some may find that offensive. )

Cheers,
Syd.

Ony thing you have to watch is really old engines with natural rubber oils seals if run on pure sythetic -- the oil seals shrink.

Synthetics just don't degrade the way mineral oil does and the oil and engine internals stay very much cleaner, they don't form varnishes so the pistons, piston rings and valve stems have a much easier time.

In the Rover M16, T16 and K engines the difference running Mobile 1 0w/40 as opposed to convetional 10W/40 can be heard and felt, on a cold morning the hydraulic tappets quieten instantly on starting instead of taking about 20 seconds, and the engine is much more responsive and feels more powrful from a cold start.