Standard sierra vented front and drums on the back, Sierra m/c.
Good pedal feel but dont really bite like i would like and really struggle to lock them
even if i stamp on them they dont scrub off speed like i thought they would in such a light car
Maybe a change from standard pads?
Its spoiling my fun!

James

James,

Are they new pads etc. I have same set up on mine and I think it's fine.

Don't forget, (I'm assuming) you don't have a servo, so brake pressure will not be so great as donor vehicle.

You might also look at the pedal ratio.

ATB

Simon

I found Mintex 1144 pads to be pretty good - good initial bite and good feel leading to lock ups if smoke effects are required

Cheers

Mark

pads have done 500 miles so should be bedded now and no servo had non servo cars before so knew more pressure was required
standard mk pedals so figured this setup to be the norm

James

My setup is the same as yours, and I would agree they don't feel to have much bite. However mine will lock the fronts fairly easily with a firm push.

Stu

Pedal ratio would be my first thing to check - all the other components are bog standard Sierra so it should be pulling your eyeballs out in such a light car.

All the above comments are true however I noticed a marked improvement on my Indy when I changed from standard pads to the mintex 1144 pads.

There isn't a lot of scope for altering the pedal ratio on an indy without major mods

Cheers

Mark

would agree with some alternative pads, i had good results with ebc greenstuff pads but others don't seem to like them.

Are you certain that the pistons aren't siezed?

Sorry if its a dumb question. When ours was first built the inboard pistons on each caliper (standard Cortina) were siezed, giving a really firm pedal but very little stopping power.

Once rebuilt, the brakes will lock the front wheels at almost all speeds, even on standard pads.

Drew

That seems odd.

I run Greenstuff pads in my car, and they are defo a bit slow when cold, but a couple of moderate stops to generate some heat works well.

FWIW my car is a 390SE TVR Wedge, and very different to anything Id ever driven before. I thought the brakes were shite at first, but they did bed in a little, and I learned not to be such a poofter with the pedal, as it is supposed to be a "man's car", whatever that is...

At the risk of sounding patronising, it might be that you just need some more time to get used to the car: I bet the 7 is a bit different to anything you've had previously!

A more scientific test might be to ask for the brake efficienct figures next time its Motd.

IIRC, my P reg Audi TDI used to make 300 at the front and about 200 at the rear. Afraid I dont know the units, but they're the numbers that came off the brake machine at the test station.

Persevere, and then stick some wilwoods on it if all else fails!!

Ed.

Problem is pedal ratio and master cylinder bore.

Westfield used a 0.7 bore dual circuit master cylinder from an FX4D or FX4R taxi. --- also used on Triumph GT6

Hi James, Assuming you have the correct bore master cylinder(s) it may be just a question of bedding in the pads/discs.

This has been my experience. On my very first drive down our lane in the Phoenix I was appalled at the lack of braking. The pedal was rock solid but no matter how much pressure I put on the pedal, there was no bite at all.

However, I took the car to the Haynes Test Track and after a few laps, there was a huge improvement in the brakes and by the end of the session when all was well and truly bedded in, the brakes befitted a 160mph car. They really did anchor it up and instilled a lot of confidence.

I just wondered if this could be the same with you.

atb

John

ps my website is temporarily down

Thanks for input guys
i will give them some stick over wkend just to make sure they are fully bedded and if that doesnt work then i will strip and double check everything again.

James

Hi also try removing the pads and check they are not glazzed over.

cheers Matt