Hi,
I am STILL trying to get my dam english axle apart to replace the diff. The problem I have now is the brake backing plate is preventing me from using
THIS method with the two bolts rather than bashing a wheel:
http://www.locostbuilders.co.uk/viewthread.php?tid=83102
in use
That is NOT a picture of my set up, I can't do that as there is a brake backing plate with all the brake shoes etc on it - if I could move the
backing plate I could do it, but I can't figure out how to get it off - well not without cutting it up anyway!
Put a wheel on and hit the tyre not the wheel pulling at the opposite site at the same time.
hammer two wheel studs out and replace them with threaded bar. A nut fitted on the inside will allow you to wind the bar down against the back plate
and force the bearing out.
[Edited on 7/4/08 by Mr Whippy]
Or you could use the correct piece of kit called a Slide Hammer.
Slips over two opposing wheel studs and the nuts are done up tight. A heavy round hammer is then slid along a shaft (which is attached to the bracket
attached to the studs) against a reaction stop. This pulls the shaft out an absolute doddle.
quote:
Originally posted by jollygreengiant
Or you could use the correct piece of kit called a Slide Hammer.
Slips over two opposing wheel studs and the nuts are done up tight. A heavy round hammer is then slid along a shaft (which is attached to the bracket attached to the studs) against a reaction stop. This pulls the shaft out an absolute doddle.
Anotyher vote for the slide hammer. It took me about 3 mins to remove both of my shafts.
a slide hammer is find if a) you have one and b) you ensure chassis is supported porpely so no risk of pulling it off the stand.
I recognise that photo and it was my first attempt at removing the 0.5 shafts in order to fit back plate.
After SVA and some driving I had an oil leak on passenger side so had removed 0.5 shaft again and the back plate was fitted so it is possible to do
using those "tools".
added.
when you remove the 4 bolts for the flange which alos keep the back plate in place (?) I used a smaller set of bolts to "hang" the plate so
that a) the pipe is not stressed and b) it does not get in the way.
can't remember all the detials but it wasn't that hard to do. I have 8 inch drums so if you have 9 inch, maybe that makes is harder?
[Edited on 7/4/08 by 02GF74]
How long is a slide hammer? I only have limited room each side of the car, not sure it will fit....
Pics!
Rescued attachment 101_0618.JPG
Yeah, I did have the clearance fun. Had to move the car on the jack in between sides!
As fro pulling it off the axle stands - no way! It took a lot less of a tug then I expected. Nowhere near enough to pull the car off its supports.
Trying the wheel/tyre method, I found it nearly impossible (although worked for putting them back in).
I should change this into a "WANTED, SLIDE HAMMER" thread
Cheers fellas!
quote:
Originally posted by Dangle_kt
I should change this into a "WANTED, SLIDE HAMMER" thread
Cheers fellas!
The problem with the tyre/bashing technique is the angle of pull. As you smack it, you are not pulling straight out, hence it will take more fouce
than pulling at the midpoint. If you use the correct tool for the job (I know, the 'adjustment' hammer is a very handy tool!) it makes life
so much easier.
If you have some steel, a welder, some threaded bar etc kicking around, you can make one pretty easily, although I just borrowed one from my local
garage!
quote:
Originally posted by Mr Whippy
quote:
Originally posted by jollygreengiant
Or you could use the correct piece of kit called a Slide Hammer.
Slips over two opposing wheel studs and the nuts are done up tight. A heavy round hammer is then slid along a shaft (which is attached to the bracket attached to the studs) against a reaction stop. This pulls the shaft out an absolute doddle.
the cost! personally I don't like inpacting bearings anyway as the cages can be damaged...
quote:
Originally posted by twybrow
The problem with the tyre/bashing technique is the angle of pull. As you smack it, you are not pulling straight out, hence it will take more fouce than pulling at the midpoint. If you use the correct tool for the job (I know, the 'adjustment' hammer is a very handy tool!) it makes life so much easier.
If you have some steel, a welder, some threaded bar etc kicking around, you can make one pretty easily, although I just borrowed one from my local garage!
I have a slide hammer in North London if that helps.
As BT says - How long are the half shafts? How close to the wall are you? Might be worth sticking it back on wheels and doing job outside at weekend (if its dry enough).