this is the idea.

my dash will be attached to scuttle with lots of button heads to be easily removable from the front (steering wheel and column switches need to be removed first.)

I am thinking for putting two or three multi-way plugs between the instruments and the loom so that these are unplugged rather than having to remove the various wires from the instruments in order to move dash out of the car. it will be easier to work on reverse side of the dash when it is out of the car.

any reason why this is a bad idea?

access to the instruments/lamps/switches could be gotten by removing the scuttle so maybe not so great an idea.?

just thinking aloud.

This is what i did when i redone my dash, means its quicker to diagnose problems as you can use a multimeter at one single point.

just make a note of what pins do what

That's what I've done. Works really well. My dash has 10 captive bolts in it that protrude through into the scuttle and are held in place with 10 wing nuts.

Undo the wing nuts, disconnect the two multiway connectors, job done.

Takes a couple of minutes...

Definitely worth doing IMHO.

Me too, good idea.

Make sure your connectors are correctly rated for what you are using them for though.

Rich.

I used these: -

http://www.maplin.co.uk/Module.aspx?ModuleNo=997&criteria =multiway&doy=24m9

Of course only for low current applications - no good for your starter button

so no votes against - soundsl ike a plan.

I was thinking about D-type connector *; need to check current rating but it is mostly for LED lamps and low current for instruments.

It would be good if the connector could be mounted on the rear of the dash so the plug can be disconnect using 1 hand.

* a quick search shows these are rated at 7.5 A per contact seems rather a lot.

[Edited on 24/9/07 by 02GF74]

I used two (my clocks are the Blade ones so they are also seperated from the loom with two of their own) One rated for wiring etc and then one with a higher rating for the ignition etc.

I bought them all from here - POLEVOLT

cheers,
Steve

I used a 24 pin connector from a PC PSU (actually it was 2 converters, 24-20 and 20-24 pin)

I only used them as I had them lying about, but I reckon they are about perfect (if you don't mind a bit of soldering)

I made mine so the dash is in place when the scuttle is removed. The only thing I need to disconnect is the speedo cable.

Dash in place with scuttle removed.

[Edited on 24/9/07 by Peteff]

quote:

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Originally posted by 02GF74
* a quick search shows these are rated at 7.5 A per contact seems rather a lot.

[Edited on 24/9/07 by 02GF74]

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I used a couple of standard 6 way connectors to do this. it really is a great help in working on the dash and the wiring behind it. This is a really simple thing to do and very well worth it.

Caber

I used 3 x 8way multi plugs ( 1 for warning lights - 1 for gauges - 1 for switches )
Rescued attachment CIMG04881.JPG

quote:

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Originally posted by MikeRJ

Only problem with them is the solder buckets are generaly a but too small for most automotive cable.

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if you need that thick cable to you dash you're not using enough relais.

dash wiring should not be neccisarily thicker than .75mmsq which can fit in almost any D-type I know, D types are just so doggy, I've used Socapex connectors but those are very expensive

for higher power apllications like charge lights that are the field wire to the alternator (denso's) you could use neutrik XLR microphone plugs those hold 20amp easilly

grtz Thomas

well not really; I didn't wire it up originally and it looks like a car loom was used which has thick wires.

there is not need for relays since it is just instruments that I am wiring up.

I will be using a pair of ATX 20 way connectors since these are physically bigger then D-type plus if I am right, they have push in type crimp contacts so will be easier to make up the connectors.