In my search for the perfect inlet trumpet for a reasonable price i've found something that needs a slight modification.
Basically the inlet trumpet i've got is made of ABS plastic and too long, to shorten it i need to cut it and then 'join' some more
plastic onto the bottom to act as mounting. I've got some plastic plumbing solvent but the joint will be a butt joint and i'm worried it
won't be very effective considering the heat and vibration it will be exposed too.
My options for the joint are either a larger sleave or tabs on the side. If i do tabs on the site i could then make the trumpets similar to these
which fit dellorto / weber carbs / jenvey carbs / throttle bodies
->http://www.dellorto.co.uk/merchandise/products.asp?CategoryID=16&PartsectionID=84.
I also need a supply of flat ABS, preferably something 10mm thick if i'm doing the tabs or tube 2 or 3mm thick if i'm doing the tube.
So, suggestions?
I managed to drop my VFR last winter and duffed the top fairing up good and proper
I bought some plastic strips (ABS) from the bay of E and spent a couple of hours sat in the sunshine putting the jigsaw back together using just a
soldering iron and the strips. Worked a treat and I'm well pleased with the strength
Can't remember where I got them from on the bay but if I find them I'll post on here.
JB
I'm not 100% sure, but acetone should do it, or perhaps cellulose thinners (xylene, toluene)? use it to soften the mating surfaces of your ABS
plastic then join the softened mating surfaces with a filler paste glue made of dissolved ABS clippings (clip some [e.g. lego] into some acetone and
dissolve it into a jointing paste. If using lego you could blend a nice colour!).
....on the other hand you could probably get some abs plastic and some "plastic weld" glue from a model shop.
Let us know how you get on
Lego is ABS
Its what I used to repair my fairings on the GPZ
Acetone also disolves the stuff (and eventually it evaporates)
I did try and make ABS sludge (jam jar, some chibbled up lego brick, and acetone...stir, leave sealed, stir some more and you have a goop that will
happily fill and bond given enough time)
Lego and soldering iron is much quicker though and more "hard"(and slightly brittle) where my sludge method remained much softer and
bendier
Regards
Rob
[Edited on 14/12/10 by robocog]
How long does the lego / acetone mix take to dry?
Could you make a mould (using ??) and pour it in?
(just done a google search and it doesn't answer the questions).
Yes it can be moulded
(I used parcel tape on the "missing sections" in my fairings to help get a rough shape)
It took absolutely ages to go off and ended up bubbly when rubbed down
It skins quite quicky but remained soft uderneath the skin
I suspect as my panel parts were a good 3 mm thick in that area it didn't help
I also noted a bit of shrinkage as it cured...but a quick going over with soldering iron helped re-shape it and flow it about a bit better
The quick skinning affect made it quite tricky to work with and I never really got to suss out if one thick goopy layer was better than lots of thin
ones
either way it required a bit of stirring into place which reulted in the trapped air bubbles
When I say ages above I must have left the panels outside for at least a fortnight and this was in summer
Soldering iron and lego brick is sandable as soon as it has cooled and can be melted in in layers and a much much quicker way of going about it
I still have some sludge left in my coffee jar
I did find a site with details on how one chap made moulds (using latex from a good fairing) for the missing pieces on his fairing and used the lego
sludge poured in and soldering ironed together to his old fairing to great sucess
Will see if I can find it...it was what inspired me to have a go on my own busted plastics
Regards
Rob
Found it
http://brandejs.ca/details.php?view=ninja_500
Regards
Rob
hmmm, some interesting stuff here lads - thanks.
(now where did i put that old lego?)
Mike I have some 10mm ABs knocking about and also some thinner stuff , send me a U2U re sizes and details
atb
Mike
Fumes are probably poisonous aren't they?
So take care with open windows etc!
Cheers,
James
This is what we use to repair motorbike panels, bumpers etc
Its basically a liquid plastic glue that goes off really quick. Once its set you can even drill and tap it.
http://www.u-pol.com/product-cat/170/stronghold%E2%84%A2-products.htm
i can verify that acetone melts plastic. my other half spilt half a bottle of it down our brand new Bosch tumble drier, melted all the buttons and fused them to the plastic fascia.
Currently waiting on friends to respond if they have any lego they no longer want