So, some pillock put a 1300 sump onto a 1600 xflow -rattle, rattle, rattle

Once removed I discovered that the interference between big ends and sump is tiny, merely scratch marks. I cast about for a while looking for a suitable replacement sump, but to no avail. I then got to thinking why not simply 'form' a small bulge in the sides of the sump with hammer and form or similar?

Is this possible? Will I deform the gasket surface? Would it be better cold forming or with a bit of heat? Anyone tried this before?

Any help gratefully appreciated.
Cheers
James

Don't see a great problem, make sure you don't thin the metal to much and check sump gasket face is level when you are done.

i didnt think it was good practice having your crank/rods constantly splashing through the oil, as is surely would do if they was hitting the bottom of the sump?

There is a good chance of distorting the sump to block face so it won't seal.

Stu

quote:

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Originally posted by Davey D
i didnt think it was good practice having your crank/rods constantly splashing through the oil, as is surely would do if they was hitting the bottom of the sump?

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If your fitting a standard depth 1300 sump is it worth bolting the sump to a spare block, cutting off the bottom , modifying the sump to clear and then shortening/baffling , that way with the mounting flange bolted solidly to a block any distortion will be reduced and ground clearance increased? Vulcan engineering listed sumps on thier website a while ago as do Burtonpower

As Rusty nuts said,i would do the job properly and chop/modify the sump pan.

Andy

The big ends just clip the sides of the sump not the bottom, as far as I am aware the sumps are a similar depth so the oil splashing problem is not a problem ( someone correct me here..).

I've probably got one...
Where are you?

Or one of these...?

eBay Item

[Edited on 1/1/11 by jonrotheray]

What about fitting the right sump......

quote:

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Originally posted by lsdweb
What about fitting the right sump......

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Been there, done that...

In my case, I'd even modified the sump before finding out that it was the wrong one...

In the end I bought the correct sump and modified that, rather than messing around with the 1300 one - which was a good thing, as I eventually sold the old sump to someone with a 1300 xflow who wanted a modified sump. I just about broke even, if you don't count the time I spent in modifying the first one.

Standard method for fix bashed sumps is with the sump bolted up to the block weld and a bracket on to the out side of the sump at the point you want to pull out.

Then heat the bashed area with a gas torch to bright red, grip the welded on bracket with mole grips and pull the bash out.

[Edited on 1/1/11 by britishtrident]

Thanks for the responses thus far, some great ideas and thoughts. The sumps I had found for sale are generally overpriced and finding a rear-bowl one seems to be rare. The reason for modifying my exisiting one is that it seems to be okay aprting from being ever so slightly to narrow, hence the need for modification, and this is the 'low-cost' forum after all and time costs nothing.


jonrotheray - Chipping Norton

I read on another thread that Mark Allanson had produced a PDF with instructions for sump chopping , does anyone know where I can find a copy?

Cheers
James

You could take a look at my web pages re sump shortening - they don't qualify as 'instructions', but they might provide some useful clues.

LINKY

Hint: You can get bigger pictures by clicking on the little ones...