Hi
I have been doing a batch of rusty wheels, so many infact that my old charger was just too slow, it’s only 12v 6 amps
I went and bought today a 12v/24v 12 amp one which looks well made, it has an ammeter on the front, first time I’ve had a charger with one. I was
expecting to see about 12 amps on the gauge but it barely moves at all, 12 or 24volts. Is this normal? I connected it onto a car battery and the gauge
moves up the scale as I’d have expected.
Anyone using a charger with a gauge who has seen how it reads during rust removal? It’s non automatic as far as I’m aware. I’ve connected it up and
it's switched on now but the water is so dirty I can’t see if it is working...
I seem to recal reading 5-10amp is good. however my charger doesnt have a guage so I always based it on howmany bubbles it created, the later times
ive use it I got lots of bubbles. The only change i made was to ensure a good connection to both items and to move the rustiest areas to face the
anode.
Good link here on ammeter readings
http://www.metaldetectingworld.com/control_voltage_current_p23.shtml
thanks
Well I've just went out, it's been on an hour, I think it is working regardless of the odd gauge reading. Lots of bubbles & black stuff
over the iron anode as normal. Very strange about the current, I'd have thought it would be reading higher oh I well found out something new
today then
cheers 
Oh when I clean this water out I am going to do a timelapse of the process, I'm really curious to see how the "stuff" moves in the
water but it's too slow to work out
[Edited on 18/10/12 by Mr Whippy]
i don't imagine a charger through water and soda would pass a particularly high current? didn't think water was that conductive. maybe thats the reason for the reading
quote:
Originally posted by blakep82
i don't imagine a charger through water and soda would pass a particularly high current? didn't think water was that conductive. maybe thats the reason for the reading
but why does the water swirl? what makes it move, it's not hot...all very strange
I think lot depends whether the charger is the type that just charges or one that monitors the charging.
The ideal charger for electrolysis is a simple one that just charges.
Current on mine increased after a while. Don't forget it works better at a higher temp. Around 20 deg c is best for it. Plus the amount of soda
crystals effects the current.
I had issues with a good connection. I ended up sanding a bit on my item to fix with the grinder an hey presto 5 hours at 4 amp and all new.
quote:
Originally posted by Mr Whippy
Hi
I have been doing a batch of rusty wheels, so many infact that my old charger was just too slow, it’s only 12v 6 amps
I went and bought today a 12v/24v 12 amp one which looks well made, it has an ammeter on the front, first time I’ve had a charger with one. I was expecting to see about 12 amps on the gauge but it barely moves at all, 12 or 24volts. Is this normal? I connected it onto a car battery and the gauge moves up the scale as I’d have expected.
Anyone using a charger with a gauge who has seen how it reads during rust removal? It’s non automatic as far as I’m aware. I’ve connected it up and it's switched on now but the water is so dirty I can’t see if it is working...
yeah your right though my new one is not automatic its just the almost zero current gauge reading that threw me, working very well now
ta
I'm with Blake, I reckon it's not going to show a big current draw through the solution.
interestingly its going up as the water is more active and the parts getting cleaner, now around 5 amps
maybe theres more 'particles'(?) being taken from the anode and being in the solution that increased the reading.
If it's like my old charger the gauge is more to tell you that it's switched on than anything else. It's a 12 amp charger but it only ever reads 4 or 8 even though a tester shows it putting 12 out.
its showing current flow, it will be low, water even with an electrolyte is not a good conductor.