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Question about Clarke pillar drill
Chaz - 1/9/13 at 08:38 AM

I have just purchased a Clarke CDP5DD (entry level) pillar drill and was wondering which pillar drill vices I'm restricted too? As far as I can see the only vice made by Clarke is the CDV30C 3" vice. I'm a noob regarding pillar drills so please let me know if I'm asking the right questions! Am I only able to use a Clarke vice in their pillar drills? I would imagine not, but this is the level of knowledge I'm at with this stuff. Any advice on these areas is very welcome!

Cheers

Charlie


Peteff - 1/9/13 at 08:45 AM

The slots in drill vices are pretty universal so as long as a couple line up with the holes in your table you should be fine.


Chaz - 1/9/13 at 09:38 AM

What would be the largest vice I could use on my pillar drill?


clanger - 1/9/13 at 10:02 AM

nice little 4" should do you for most jobs. wouldn't bother going too large/expensive on the drill you bought. A quality Abwood might break the table off

keep on eye on the bay of decay, plenty of stuff kicking round on there. best of luck and don't forget to clamp it down if you're new to drilling. even an entry level machine will do you some damage if the drill snatches


Chaz - 1/9/13 at 10:29 AM

Great advice - many thanks

Charlie


trextr7monkey - 1/9/13 at 11:45 AM

Hi Charlie
We have quite a few drills used by school kids who all have to bé trained to use machines safely and confidently and you are quite right to ask before diving in. We insist that every thing being drilled is held down either in machine vices, cross vices or quite often just clamped to the table on top of a block of plywood / mdf and the table clamped to the pillar, so a small pair of bog standard G cramps will bé very handy and prob out last lots of the ratchet clamps aimed at getting cash out of pockets
For repetitive jobs we often make up drilling jigs consisting of abase board with a raise L shaped edge to rest work against tostop it spinning cunningly positioned below drill to allow piles of thin stuff to bé drilled simultaneously or clock faces get hole dead in centre etc.
Have fun stay safe
Mike


MikeR - 1/9/13 at 03:54 PM

this might be obvious but leave some goggles on the handle so you have to move them to use the drill. should make sure you use the goggles - drill bits can shatter and you don't want your eyes being what stosps them.


Chaz - 4/9/13 at 08:25 PM

Thanks Mike and Mike R.

Question - Do you use any cutting compounds or lubricants for specific metals? Have you got any guides for drilling speeds for different metals?


David Jenkins - 4/9/13 at 09:24 PM

I have a bigger Clarke pillar drill, and it has a list of recommended speeds inside the lid that covers the drive belts. This also shows how to position the 2 belts to get each speed. Maybe yours has too? Or perhaps the handbook gives a guide?


nick205 - 4/9/13 at 09:44 PM

Useful guide to drilling speeds here - drilling guide

Generally, the smaller the diameter, the higher the rpm.

Also pay attention to the speed and force with which you drill the hole. Let the drill do the work and don't force it - this will come with a bit of practice, but if the drill is chattering or squealing you're probably applying too much pressure.

"peck" drilling is a useful technique as well. Drill a little then raise the drill and allow the swarf to clear before drilling a little further. This helps in several ways; reducing the chance of clogging the drill bit, reducing heat build up (both help preserve the drill bit) and getting a better finish on the hole.

If you're drilling thin material, it really helps to clamp it to a piece of timber and drill into the timber. This usually gives a much cleaner hole with less burring on the underside of the material.

Finally, it's worth buying decent drill bits and looking after them. IMHO cheap ones are a false economy and give poor results.