Board logo

slitting aluminium tube - the update
02GF74 - 12/10/06 at 09:13 AM

Those who have been paying attention will know my exhaust can is not SVA complaint and after the "cone" fix failed, I looked at fitting a tube over the edge.

I initially started with 6 mm tube (5 mm being the min, radius) and after a couple of failed attempts finally have success!!

When I eventually managed to fit the 6 mm tube, (involved sawing down one side, opening out the slot with a flat bladed screwdrivier, putting a strip of ali into the slot to stop it closing up when bending it), I found that although the front was ok, my homemade 2.5 mm radius guage would touch on the top - no good

So my next attempt was to use 8 mm tube; harder to bend and got a kink in it which meant it would not go on.

So thought, hmmm, I wonder if I can get my MM nibbler in? And found it would cut even curved tubing.

bent and slit tube
bent and slit tube


I made a former out of some loft flooring, bent the tube then nibbled all the way - the cut metal curls up and needs to be removed otherwise the nibbler has no room work. The advantage of the nibbler is the the tube is undistorted and it so happens that the thickness of the exhaust can edge is almost the same width as the cut.

wooden former
wooden former



A bit of fettling and on it went!! (need more tubing and do the back side and one more item to cross off the list)
trim on can
trim on can

trim on can - side
trim on can - side


To finish I'll probably slap on a bit of exhaust pace so it stays on - the different metal expansion rates may cause problems


ayoungman - 12/10/06 at 09:39 AM

An alternative solution. Could you borrow a silencer just for the SVA then swop it over afterwards ?

just a thought to save you all this hassle.


02GF74 - 12/10/06 at 09:57 AM

quote:
Originally posted by ayoungman
An alternative solution. Could you borrow a silencer just for the SVA then swop it over afterwards ?

just a thought to save you all this hassle.


good idea, now that I think about it, maybe I should have borrowed a completed car, would have saved all sorts of hassle


James - 12/10/06 at 11:56 AM

Lolocost silencer? Me too.

I just used some rubber 'U' trim.

Hasn't melted yet in 1200miles motoring.

Cheers,
James

[Edited on 12/10/06 by James]


DavidM - 12/10/06 at 12:00 PM

quote:
Originally posted by James
Lolocost silencer? Me too.

I just used some rubber 'U' trim.

Hasn't melted yet in 1200miles motoring.

Cheers,
James

[Edited on 12/10/06 by James]


Thats what I did too.

David


02GF74 - 12/10/06 at 01:00 PM

quote:
Originally posted by James
Lolocost silencer? Me too.

I just used some rubber 'U' trim.

Hasn't melted yet in 1200miles motoring.



TELL THAT TO THE INSPECTOR BABY!!

even though mine survived the 30 odd mile trip, it was deemed not durable, and small X put on the form.


James - 12/10/06 at 01:22 PM



Oh, ok then!

Cheers,
James


lexi - 12/10/06 at 08:11 PM

You may get reaction between SS and ally.
Remember putting SS penny washer on floor of 109.........it went all powdery and ate the ally. Maybe a welded bead , grind and polish if the tube don`t last.
Alex


wilkingj - 15/10/06 at 09:49 AM

quote:
Originally posted by lexi
You may get reaction between SS and ally.
Remember putting SS penny washer on floor of 109.........it went all powdery and ate the ally. Maybe a welded bead , grind and polish if the tube don`t last.
Alex


Yup.. It will, Its disimmilar metal corrosion.

Put to different metals together, ally and steel, and there is a very tiny electic voltage that is generated between them, This is exactly the way a thermocouple works, except they engineer it so they can measure the voltage change when the joint temperature changes, and makes a very accutate temperature probe.

However, when we do it on cars, we dont want this to happen. Look at Older Landrovers, and they have this white powdery "rust" this is what happens over time. The electric current eats away at the metal, ie you have an anode / cathode, and metal is eaten away. Think of the Electrolosys cleaning thread on here (forum) or a car battery its the same action, but working in reverse.


02GF74 - 16/10/06 at 09:04 AM

Thanks to all those concerned by dissimilar metal corrosion.

The materials used and method of fitment has gone through years of research by top international scientists followed by hundreds of hours of testing so that it is guaranteed to retain its structural integrity until one day after a successful SVA pass. [wink wink]


Marcus - 16/10/06 at 11:25 AM

I did the same as you, but used copper pipe. Didn't bother with strip to stop gap closing, just tapped it onto silencer. The intention was to take it off post SVA, but it's still there 2 years later.