which is better to use for the chassis? ive got a 130amp draper turbo mig but havent had much practise so gonna have to play first anyway before i start doing the serious stuff, but is that gonna be ok for doin the chassis or do i need something more like an arc?

MIG every time!!
Practise on the same stuff you are using for the chassis and practise the fillet welds as they are the hardest to get right without laying a slug along one piece and completely missing the other!! Make sure the surfaces are shiney clean and it will make things easier.
Good luck.

I don't know anything about your machine but for welding a chassis I would say it's fine.

In order of preference I would say:

1 - TIG
2 - MIG
3 - Arc (stick welder)

I would say MIG and TIG are very satisfactory for welding a chassis with MIG being a bit easier to learn and TIG giving neater welds with less distortion in steel and being by far the best for thin aluminium.

Mig.......

The 130amp will just about do your chassis.

You will need some practice to do the 3mm thick steel plate

Practice practice practice! (MIG MIG MIG)

Before attempting a chassis it might be a good idea to book yourself on a welding tuition course at your local college.


[Edited on 1-7-07 by RazMan]

Another MIG

If you can master arc welding 1.6mm box, it will produce a neater and stronger weld than mig, but not better than tig.

so:-

1, TIG
2, ARC
3, MIG

You would need an inverter MMA unit with an OCV of over 70v, definately NOT and air cooled transformer unit.

quote:

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Originally posted by Mark Allanson
You would need an inverter MMA unit with an OCV of over 70v, definately NOT and air cooled transformer unit.

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I used an arc welder on my chassis , and floor

If thats what youve got then use it,
but now that I have an MIG as well, MIG welding is soooo much easier that arc

As long as the machine is well maintained you should be fine with the Mig setup (it's so much easier than the Arc or TIG)...

I couldn't work out why my welding was so spluttery- wondered if it was the motor or liner the first turns okay and I replaced the second without a difference.
The nozzle at the end of the gun is knackered but I couldn't work out why that would make a difference.... Then when reading Practical Classics they point out that if the nozzle is too large (ie if it's orifice is worn out) it won't contact the wire properly and you'll get wonky conduction....
Looks like I need some new nozzle bits.. Hopefully that'll sort it- my frying bacon sound is a bit stop + start!!!