I'm currently restoring an MG TC and this is involving cleaning the old paint and surface rust of components and panels that will ultimately end
up bodywork coloured. I'm starting to generate things from door panels to hinges that I'll need to protect from surface rust for maybe
another couple of years until I'm ready to do final finishing and have them top coated.
What is the best way to do this?
I'm now confused about primers etc, but have the following thoughts in my head
I) Using normal primer isn't a good idea as its not water resistant - the parts will not be exposed to the elements, but they will be in an
unheated garage for years
ii) 2k rattle can epoxy primer sounds good except that the cans are single use only once the hardener is mixed in, therefore could get expensive doing
small areas at a time
iii) I'm thinking maybe etch primer, but how pristine does the metal have to be for this and how protective is it really? I was thinking of also
using one of the metal prep products that converts any residual rust (e.g. microscopic amounts that I have not completely got rid of) first and leave
a zinc phosphate coating (e.g. POR15 metal prep), but I think that I read somewhere that its not good to use etch primer over a metal prepped
surface.
iv) I don't really want to contaminate the surfaces by using temporary protection such as spraying WD40 over everything
Advice please
I use this stuff. It'll kill any rust and leaves it coated to prevent further rust. When you come to paint it just wash it off beforehand with
warm water.
http://www.fertan.co.uk/Item-Fertan%20rust%20converter.htm
I prefer to use either erch primer or zinc 182, the sills on my 944 have been in zinc 182, kept outside under a waterproof cove for over a year now, no sign of rust forming, on either the new metal, or the original.
quote:
Originally posted by r1_pete
I prefer to use either erch primer or zinc 182, the sills on my 944 have been in zinc 182, kept outside under a waterproof cove for over a year now, no sign of rust forming, on either the new metal, or the original.
I generally brush zinc on if I know I need to leave it a while, then come finising time, I flat the brush marks out with dry paper, 300 - 400 grit,
which will expose some metal, then I etch prime, flat, regular prime then paint.
If Im finishing from scratch in one go I dont bother with zinc, unless Ive done some filling, then a brush over with zinc, and a flat off helps loose
the filler to metal join.
P.S Ive used cellulose ove zinc 182, with no reaction, if anything will react its Cellulose, but as above I like a flash over with etch.