how often do i need to rivet my floor then guys? i bought a 2 handed riveter today and 600 rivets so thats now the first job

Cheers

James

How often? only once i would hope....

or do you mean the spacing? i done mone every 2"

so if i rivet ever 2 inches that will suffice? right lets get to work! now where did i leave my drill?, LOL

Cheers

James

have fun riviting hope you have got a lot of drill bits becouse they go blunt quick.
i when throught a lotso make shaw you have got a good stock

have fun riviting hope you have got a lot of drill bits becouse they go blunt quick.
i went throught a lot so make shaw you have got a good stock

I spaced my rivets every 2". I also used a urethane adhesive to bond the panel in place.

The adhesive not only helps hold the panel, but it really killed a lot of noise and the panels are now sealed as well.

Be sure to use gloves when working with the glue. It is sticky, nasty stuff that takes days to wear off.

quote:

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Originally posted by MustangSix
Be sure to use gloves when working with the glue. It is sticky, nasty stuff that takes days to wear off.

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While we're on the subject, does anyone know a good (cheap) place to get stainless rivets?

Kingr

Sharpen them up on the bench grinder with a lesser angle and they last for ages. I think it's the ali that blunts them more than the steel. You don't get as much of a burr on the back of the ali either. If you break one, use the broken bit and sharpen that up, I've got the one that I did all the panels with and it's still usable.

yours, Pete.

quote:

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Originally posted by Peteff
Sharpen them up on the bench grinder with a lesser angle and they last for ages. I think it's the ali that blunts them more than the steel.

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I had black, glue covered fingers for four days until the underlying skin wore off!

I dunno about in the UK, but here they sell contractor packs of 1/8" bits very cheap. I bought 10-packs for about five dollars each. Sharpening 1/8" bits isn't cost or time effective. As it was, they lasted a fair amount of time. I only used two or three to do a hundred holes.

Another tip...Slide a piece of tight fittng flexible pipe over drill bit, allowing about 1/2 inch protrusion (or wind some tape aropund the drill bit to do the same). This will prevent you 'bottoming out' on the other side of the RHS, which also causes the bit to blunt quickly.

HTH Stu.

I use a £5 drill sharpening jig that pushes them up to the side of the fine wheel on my bench grinder. 2 turns on the little thumbscrew and they are good as new. The angle is altered by a wingnut(me) .

yours, Pete.

just grazed thru the thread and thought i'd put me pennworth in, Aluminium is very soft and sticky to hss blades , best thing is to use a non-stick coating on your bits, best thing to date buy Titanium Nitride coated bits, best thing since teflon for turning hss non-stick
Happy perforating!!

[Edited on 5/7/03 by GasGasGas]

call me a crazy mad fool, but does no one use good old fashioned steel seam welded in as a floor?

My MK Indy chassis does. Bought it 10 months ago.

Good old 16g steel floor. No need to seam weld, a 2 inch tack every 4 inch or so. Drop your chassis on 8x4 sheet and draw round it, cut out with angle grinder, sit in it and weld round yourself .

yours, Pete.

Yup, that's what I did, very nice too.

And I also second the use of PU sealant on all panels too, will stop the rivets rattling loose.