BUT NOT A BAD ONE......................I think

I had my IVA today at Edmonton and to be fair our tester was very helpful and tried his best to help get through the test with a pass, unfortunately one of the fails was the emissions, even though he gave us a couple of attempts we still couldn't get it through, the main fail points were:

Directions indicators - too many!, solution- disconnect the ones in the wing mirrors so they don't work. NOW DONE.

Fog Light switch - illuminates as do the other buttons when lights on but no tell tale to show when fog light has been left on, rewire switch so only illuminates when switch is on. NOW DONE.

Rear Fog Light - On the wrong side, should be on the drivers side not the passengers (What a twat for getting that wrong!).

A few cables/hose need cable tying up to avoid potential future chaffing. NOW DONE.

Drivers side front brake - Locks up much sooner than the left front, this was out side the tolerances allowed - not sure on the reason for this, the pads and discs are fairly unused only one track day last year, will check the Willwood callipers are working correctly if not maybe check the pads & disc's ???? ANY IDEAS WOULD BE WELCOME !

Emissions - FAST IDLE Co 1.33, LAMDA 0.966 (needed to be 0.97-1.03!), HC 48, NATURAL IDLE 1.52 - Gutted about failing this bit as it was the bit I've been dreading. I had taken the car to my local MOT test station and passed the MOT emissions test twice, the cat may have been a lot hotter (after 2 hours of fiddling with the power commander) but the reading then were, FAST IDLE Co 0.01, HC 11, LAMBDA 1.02, NATURAL IDLE 0.00.

the other bits should be done this weekend (not sure about the brake thing) but I am concerned about the emissions, re test is booked for the 16th May REALLY REALLY don't want to fail again...... need to get her out in the sun this year (if we have any). Looks like she's going to have to be trailered to Stoneleigh instead of driven.
Overall I didn't think it was a bad fail but still frustrating.

I've put a couple of photos in my archive from today, not great taken on my phone in the rain! haven't worked out how to put them in this bit yet.

[Edited on 11/4/13 by Markyb13]

A good fail if there is such a thing, mine failed with a similar list on 19th March at Gillingham. but passed on the 5th April, all in all a stressful event but the testers were fair and helpful as yours were. I know they do get a bit of a slating at times but I can only speak as I found.

Bandage the Cat if not already done and really heat it up prior to testing, I ran mine till the cooling fans kicked in a couple of times and held it on a couple of thousand revs to really get hot. (car engine)

I had a problem with the rear caliper advised to remove reset the pistons and apply footbrake a few times to re-adjust.

All the best with the retest and happy motoring.

Thanks

I,ll try as you have suggested with the brake caliper and hope that sorts it like it did for you.

Cheers

Have you got all of the air out of the offending caliper - might be worth bleeding again.

Drivers side front brake - Locks up much sooner than the left front, this was out side the tolerances allowed - not sure on the reason for this, the pads and discs are fairly unused only one track day last year, will check the Willwood callipers are working correctly if not maybe check the pads & disc's ???? ANY IDEAS WOULD BE WELCOME !



Have you got the camber and the tracking set up reason for saying is my ns front used to lock due to the camber being out

But since i have set it up i have no problems

If one brakes locks up before the other and everything is in good order then the problem is corner weights.

Brake issue could be camber - if one wheel is heavily cambered and one isn't, the cambered one will lock up first. I corrected this problem on my car the other day and it made a big difference.

It could the camber, I had played around with camber settings when trying to get it to self centre, so it is definitely not set up how I would want it when driving on the road at the moment, but now it's passed the self centring test I can adjust them back, I'll check this at the weekend along with checking the calipers etc..
Thanks for the suggestions

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Originally posted by Markyb13
It could the camber, I had played around with camber settings when trying to get it to self centre, so it is definitely not set up how I would want it when driving on the road at the moment, but now it's passed the self centring test I can adjust them back, I'll check this at the weekend along with checking the calipers etc..
Thanks for the suggestions

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Originally posted by Slimy38

quote:

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Originally posted by Markyb13
It could the camber, I had played around with camber settings when trying to get it to self centre, so it is definitely not set up how I would want it when driving on the road at the moment, but now it's passed the self centring test I can adjust them back, I'll check this at the weekend along with checking the calipers etc..
Thanks for the suggestions

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I take it they won't recheck the self centring when you take it back for the retest?

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Corner weights is probably the issue, camber would have to be badly out between sides for this to affect the contact patch on the rollers but if one front wheel is taking all the weight it will definitely lock the other.

If you don not have scales jack the rear up in the middle, have someone sat in the drivers seat and make sure the front chassis is horizontal to the ground, adjust by twiddling the spring seats then repeat swapping front to back.

Regards Mark

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Originally posted by Wheels244
Have you got all of the air out of the offending caliper - might be worth bleeding again.

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One thing it won't be is air in the brake system, it was different in the days of drum front brakes air could cause a front brake to snatch but not on front disc brakes with a front rear hydraulic split.

Check the pads and calliper pistons are moving freely but unless the brakes are pulling to one side in a moderately firm stop then the premature locking on one wheel is down to corner weights.

[Edited on 12/4/13 by britishtrident]

My thoughts are Air in the system, weeping Brake joint or kincked fletened brake pipe

ATB agriv 8

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Originally posted by rodgling
Brake issue could be camber - if one wheel is heavily cambered and one isn't, the cambered one will lock up first. I corrected this problem on my car the other day and it made a big difference.

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The tester confirmed that he would only be checking the items failed on the original test.... I think unless it was some thing blatantly obvious that you had changed since the first test ie. removed the padded steering or something like that, that might upset him.

When he weighed the car without me in it the front was pretty much even on both sides, funny enough the rear was slightly different from one side to the other, he said the scales were really made for vehicles much heavier than a 600kg bike engined car?

I'm going to check the calipers, bleed the brakes again and check the pipes again for any kinks, I couldn't see any and nor could he, and he went over every thing very thoughly, I'm sure by checking everything I've got to find something somewhere.... The thing that concerns me most is the bloody emissions test again really need to try and find some where who really knows what their doing

I have more than 4 decades of working vehicle brakes covering everything from 1920s cars with rod operated contracting band brakes to modern ABS so you can take my word for it

(1) Its is not air in the system
(2) It is not a crushed pipe
(3) It is not a weeping joint

It could be a sticking pad or seized piston in a calliper - easy enough to check just pull one pad at a time put a lever in in place of the and get an assistant to gently work the pedal.
It is most likely corner weights it fits with everything you have described, corner weights should be set with the driver onboard, the wheel that is locking first and the diagonally opposite rear are not carrying enough load when the driver is onboard. The stiffer the spring rates employed the more critical setting the corner weights become.

quote:

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Originally posted by Markyb13


I've put a couple of photos in my archive from today, not great taken on my phone in the rain! haven't worked out how to put them in this bit yet.

[Edited on 11/4/13 by Markyb13]

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Thanks for the help re getting the photos on here, hopefully this will work, here are a couple of snaps from the day.



[img][/img]

Apologies they seem to be a bit BIG !!! As you can see we had to remove th rear diffuser during the test so he could examine everything.

Looks a nice build, out of interest what wing mirrors are they?

I think they are bike mirrors, e bay special, they have indicators built into them, which I quite liked, can't them in these photos, saying that we've had to disconnect them for the re test as we had too many, got some built into the front wheel arches as well.

Here's a link to the eBay listing MOTORCYCLE FAIRING MOUNTED MIRRORS WITH INDICATORS FOR Honda CBF1000 | eBay

Nice build!

Good luck with the retest.

Whats' the screen on the passenger side in the cockpit?

Hi Chris

She past her re test in May and is now road legal:-)
The screen is linked to a colour rear view camera,more for passengers on track days really, not really nessersary but I like it and it actually works quite well.
Cheers

Mark

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Originally posted by Markyb13
Hi Chris

She past her re test in May and is now road legal:-)
The screen is linked to a colour rear view camera,more for passengers on track days really, not really nessersary but I like it and it actually works quite well.
Cheers

Mark

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