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MAJOR PROBLEM!
scoey m - 14/10/07 at 08:39 PM

Went for quick blat today
Getting used to it now and giving it a bit more right foot decided to try a rolling start so got moving give it some beanz and bang! (what the smuck?)checked under rear and mounting point for diff had snapped and mounting point from chassis all bent not sure what to do ?

Is it possible to remove 3.38 internals and place in another 7"sierra diff ?



And what would be plan of attack for chassis any ideas

Absoulutley gutted

many thanks
Martin

graememk - 14/10/07 at 08:40 PM

got any pics ?

scoey m - 14/10/07 at 08:43 PM

Will post some tommorrow all been well just fancy looking at again today! beers are out and the kleenex

macdave69 - 14/10/07 at 08:47 PM

They are swappable into other diff bodies, even into LSD 7" diffs. I have spent an absolute age researching this very topic after my diff went a knacker.

You just need to salvage the CW&P, assuming no other damage has been done

Simon - 14/10/07 at 08:50 PM

My first port of call would be MNR!

ATB

Simon

Agriv8 - 14/10/07 at 09:08 PM

Martin.

Email Marc and Chris. Should be easilly sortable.

regards

Agriv8

A Nonny Mouse - 14/10/07 at 10:06 PM

I'm not saying it can't be sorted, but easily sorted could be a slight exageration surely, for a newly built car that is fully finished, thats just lunched it's diff and ripped heavy duty mounts off a fully welded and powdercoated chassis???

M

quote:
Originally posted by Agriv8
Martin.

Email Marc and Chris. Should be easilly sortable.

regards

Agriv8


[Edited on 14/10/07 by A Nonny Mouse]

marc n - 15/10/07 at 06:25 AM

hi martin
best send me some pics, to do that sort of damage somthing isnt right somewhere in the drivetrain i would think at first guess, shouldnt be to bad to rectify inc locolasied powder coating
cheers

marc

Agriv8 - 15/10/07 at 08:05 AM

quote:
Originally posted by A Nonny Mouse
I'm not saying it can't be sorted, but easily sorted could be a slight exageration surely, for a newly built car that is fully finished, thats just lunched it's diff and ripped heavy duty mounts off a fully welded and powdercoated chassis???

M
quote:
Originally posted by Agriv8
Martin.

Email Marc and Chris. Should be easilly sortable.

regards

Agriv8


[Edited on 14/10/07 by A Nonny Mouse]


I suppose ' easilly sortable' depends on your perspective on ia and acces to tools etc .

But the with the MNR I would say.

Tunnel cover removed ( 10 minutes mnr are 1 peice )
2 seats ( 10 / 15 mins )
Remove Abs plastic sheet from behind seats ussually held on with 5 or 6 rivets ( 20 minuts -providing it hasnt been bonded on )

You can then get at the diff support brackets .

Oh PS marc has just bought a powder coating system so can make good afterwards. ( Got a few jobs in mind for that )..

Maybe I should have posted that it was fixable rather than termainal .

regards

Agriv8

chockymonster - 15/10/07 at 08:36 AM

quote:
Originally posted by marc n
shouldnt be to bad to rectify inc locolasied powder coating
cheers

marc


Damn you for being so far away

Hellfire - 15/10/07 at 09:29 AM

That sounds quite bad actually - as Marc has said send him some pictures. Not on here though eh (you know what I mean)...

MNR - Churning the money into the business by buying a localised powder coater - mmmm VERY pro-active!!! You go from strength to strength!

I would say loose bolts of diff input flange bolts, allowing prop to come loose.

Steve

Agriv8 - 15/10/07 at 10:40 AM

quote:
Originally posted by Hellfire
That sounds quite bad actually - as Marc has said send him some pictures. Not on here though eh (you know what I mean)...

MNR - Churning the money into the business by buying a localised powder coater - mmmm VERY pro-active!!! You go from strength to strength!

I would say loose bolts of diff input flange bolts, allowing prop to come loose.

Steve


Could be right Steve but in my experience.
my Bolts came loose ( me not tightning them enough and I didnt have my tools with me durring that blat ) and all it did has elongated the mounting holes ( and that's with a Sierra LSD and V8 tourque - though suspect it also depends on how Sticky the rubber is ?? squeel vs grip as it were - I am not running Sticky rubber BTW ).

my diff mounting slop is on the winter project list of things to do. ( thus I have worked out the aprox time to strip down detailed above ).

REgards

Agriv8

marc n - 15/10/07 at 12:11 PM

we only have the powdercoating system to do small rush parts typically, as it is a smelly messy job
all chassis and bones are done by a local company
we have just invested in a cnc bar feed lathe also to enable us to be more self sufficient

we get let down by suppliers all the time so we are gradually trying to eradicate the need to deal with unreliable companies by making 99 % of parts inhouse also helps on the development side too

cheers

marc

Krismc - 15/10/07 at 02:07 PM

Ive just been looking at my car and the welds that are nearby the diff look well beefed up and Im sure the diff brackets are sufficent for the job(well i hope they are) if they can handle the V8 torque, im sure they can handle my 4 -pot!!

So what on you car have you found that may be the cause?? the diff locked up??

scoey m - 15/10/07 at 07:55 PM

Spoke to chris n marc sent the pics over and their commitment to customer service is absolutley fault less 120% dedicated.
They make it sound so easy and even though there snowed under with work want to collect car and inspect all possible causes but looks like diff giveway first causing rest to twist under the load




Martin

JoelP - 15/10/07 at 08:11 PM

i was thinking that if the diff mounts cracked off the diff, or a few bolts came out, the reactive torque from driving would have more effective leverage over the remaining bolts.

tks - 25/10/07 at 09:17 PM

i think that one side of the diff came loose,

then automaticly if you aplly power it will twist one way or another and take (practicly any type of mount with it)

Tks