<<<<<<<< all done
[Edited on 16/12/08 by dean100yz]
Ive only had the Type9R for a few days but have been right over everything getting all the fine details and controls how I want them
The day I picked it up I snapped the ball of the clutch cable which hooks onto the engine (think its the actuator arm if thats what its called)
I fitted a new cable today to find no clutch still. It just had no feel to it and wasnt engaging.
Looking further and speaking to Mark at Mac it might be the actual actuator arm but thats worn. Has anyone else had this?
I have now got one coming from Mark and really hope this will cure the problem
I can only think its not fitting into the disc thats on the engine. Its hard to be more specific with what im talking about.
Any help or advise would be much appreciated thanks
Dean
Pictures are from photo bucket;
http://i724.photobucket.com/albums/ww245/dean100yz/Mac1%20Type9R/DSC00772.jpg
http://i724.photobucket.com/albums/ww245/dean100yz/Mac1%20Type9R/DSC00773.jpg
http://i724.photobucket.com/albums/ww245/dean100yz/Mac1%20Type9R/DSC00775.jpg
[Edited on 16/12/08 by dean100yz]
Sorry I don't know the answer...but I do know that Avatar is a bit big!
Ahh, thats better.
adrian
[Edited on 16/12/08 by adithorp]
Yeah sorry only realised just a min ago. Im gonna try get it smaller now
<<<<<<<< all done
[Edited on 16/12/08 by dean100yz]
i had some trouble with my clutch (r1 engine) im not sure if its the same mechanism, but i had to reset the actuator arm, there is a dot and a
triangle to line up on the back, and if theyre not in line, the clutch wont work...
hope thats a bit of help...
Anything helps. Its something I can bare in mind while im fitting it
Thanks
The clutch issue is really dragging me down.
Ordered the part and to find its not in the UK. Cant get one until mid Jan!!
HD clutch cables here but not sure if that make any difference with the other worn bit
Oh well...
Ah. I know the answer! I've been through 4-5 of these. You're over pulling the arm due to 1 of 2 reasons. Your plates are stuck together so
as you press the clutch to ease the clutch springs, you're pulling the cable more and more. The springs are eased but the plates still stick and
the clutch won't release so the actuating arm breaks just like yours.
The second thing it could be is that inside the clutch cover the actuating arm goes through a needle bearing at the top and at the bottom. My case,
unknown to me didn't have this bottom bearing in so as the arm rotates and puts pressure on the clutch arm it jumps out of alignment and results
in what you have.
It frustarted the absolute sh1t out of me to discover that.
Your only answer is to remover that clutch cover and have a look. If you jack the front of the car up high enough you can minimise oil loss. My plates
regularly stick as it gets quite humid in my garage.
Let me know if you need it going over again because I may not have explained it properly.
Edited to add can you not get one of the arms pictured? You can weld some blobs in and file them to shape or else I have one spare for emergency if
you need it. My local Kawasaki dealer gets them next day.
[Edited on 18/12/08 by mistergrumpy]
Your a legand!
I was sure this sort of thing couldnt be a one off due its design. It looks subject to premature wear if not setup correct
I cant check until tomorrow after work but will get the front raised right up and some damn strong lighting to see if its what your saying
Never thought about welding a little blob and shaping. Ive so much to learn!
Will post on my outcome tomorrow night
Look forward to it. Its about time I contributed something useful to this site! 
Ok the problem continues...
I didnt realise there is an actual engine section on this forum and I wonder if poss this maybe the better place to post?
Either ways I have again attached pics below. Been working since 7.30 this evening until about ten mins ago.
New cable has arrived along with a new actuator arm from MAC1. Although this was part of the problem it has so cured it at all.
I decided to take the whole outer and inner basket off, all the plates and discs and have a good look. The basket is pretty chewed up and as a temp
fix only I have filed all the ridges since taking the pics.
All the wear makes you see are now gone although I never took any pics after.
However after re fitting it all I found the same problem. The very middle of the clutch system has a 'stem/nail' like part that hangs out.
When the engine case is back on the actuator arm is meant to go over this and pull the clutch out. However there seems to be alot of movement on this
stem bit. So much so that I cannot get the actuator arm to grab it when trying to fit the case.
I have tried my best to show you two pictures with it fully out and in. what Im not sure about is whether there is meant to be something behind that?
A bearing, rod, washer? Nothing as come off I work on a clean white towel.
I tried to take a pic of inside the hole which isent very clear. Theres something that can be seen at the very end but is it just part of the
casing??
Im relatively mechanically minded but have come stuck with this and the problem I have is that I may have to get some kind of mobile mechanic to try
and fix it which could cost £££??
Ive only just bought this so tbh im pretty stoaked right now!
Inner basket marks/groves
http://i724.photobucket.com/albums/ww245/dean100yz/Mac1%20Type9R/DSC00788.jpg
Inner basket teeth worn back
http://i724.photobucket.com/albums/ww245/dean100yz/Mac1%20Type9R/DSC00789.jpg
Outer basket
http://i724.photobucket.com/albums/ww245/dean100yz/Mac1%20Type9R/DSC00793.jpg
Where the problem seems to be;
Once assembled this is the stem bit out
http://i724.photobucket.com/albums/ww245/dean100yz/Mac1%20Type9R/DSC00795.jpg
But it can be pushed in this far (a good 10mm)
http://i724.photobucket.com/albums/ww245/dean100yz/Mac1%20Type9R/DSC00796.jpg
These are of whats behind that stem bit once the inner basket is off. Pic isent good. Its a long thin hole/tube
http://i724.photobucket.com/albums/ww245/dean100yz/Mac1%20Type9R/DSC00799.jpg
http://i724.photobucket.com/albums/ww245/dean100yz/Mac1%20Type9R/DSC00800.jpg
And this is the stem bit
http://i724.photobucket.com/albums/ww245/dean100yz/Mac1%20Type9R/DSC00801.jpg
Please any help let me know!
A bit easier to read...
Inner basket marks/groves
Inner basket teeth worn back
Outer basket
Where the problem seems to be;
Once assembled this is the stem bit out
But it can be pushed in this far (a good 10mm)
These are of whats behind that stem bit once the inner basket is off. Pic isent good. Its a long thin hole/tube
And this is the stem bit
Unfortunately I can't help (or sleep hence my 0238 browsing!)
I was no difference didnt go bed til 2am thinking about it!
Didnt know how to do that so thanks!!
Okay. Your set up looks exactly the same as mine other than your inner basket has a ball bearing set up and mine has a needle bearing job and the
springs seem to have worn into yours slightly more than mine, but not too much.
Here's where I think your problem is then:
Clutch Case Bearing
At A you can just about see the top needle bearing that the actuating arm goes through on the inside of the clutch case. At B however you can see that
I knocked up an ally bush on this one as an idea. There should be another needle bearing in this hole so that the arm is supported at the top and
bottom when it turns. Mine didn't have this bottom bearing and so the arm was waggling around in the hole and slipping off the other clutch arm
causing the problem you showed to the actuating arm.
This bearing isn't shown on Kawasaki's diagrams when I've looked its only when someone offered to sell me a replacement that it finally
clicked.
Hope that makes sense. Let me know if it doesn't.
quote:
Originally posted by chris mason
there looks nothing wrong there, the "stem" bit as you call it should be as you describe, it can be a real barsteward sometimes but once you've done a few you get the hang of it.
sseing as though it worked fine until you clutch cable snapped i'd be inclined to think you didn't refit the cable correct, Due to the leverage of the pedal you would have been required to take some of the slack up on the actuator.
try refitting the cable and this time put a little load on the actuator arm, not enough to pull the clutch in at all, but enough to limit the movement required for the pedal to do so. There's a dot on the clutch arm, this should line up with the other dot or arrow on the clutch case once everythings done ok.
it's a straight forward job if a little fiddly depending on the "stem"
Chris
quote:
Originally posted by mistergrumpy
Okay. Your set up looks exactly the same as mine other than your inner basket has a ball bearing set up and mine has a needle bearing job and the springs seem to have worn into yours slightly more than mine, but not too much.
Here's where I think your problem is then:
Clutch Case Bearing
At A you can just about see the top needle bearing that the actuating arm goes through on the inside of the clutch case. At B however you can see that I knocked up an ally bush on this one as an idea. There should be another needle bearing in this hole so that the arm is supported at the top and bottom when it turns. Mine didn't have this bottom bearing and so the arm was waggling around in the hole and slipping off the other clutch arm causing the problem you showed to the actuating arm.
This bearing isn't shown on Kawasaki's diagrams when I've looked its only when someone offered to sell me a replacement that it finally clicked.
Hope that makes sense. Let me know if it doesn't.
Try taking the arm out, fitting the cover and then put the arm back in. That's what I do. When you put it back in have the arm pointing 90 degrees out to the left looking from the clutch cable mount. Push it down then turn it and you'll feel it drop into place. Incidentally, do you have the part number for the new arm you've got because I got a ZX6 one at one point and that was a different length.
After a few hours tonight and a little patients I got it sorted!!
Really big thanks Chris Mason & mistergrumpy. Both were right. Getting it to line up though was a sod!
All adjusted and have to say its better than it was when I bought it! Really smooth, biting point much better just really pleased
Cheers for all your help guys