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pip and or saw missing? in ms
jonesier1 - 14/8/09 at 08:22 PM

been struggling with getting my car to rev propperly,i have driven it but it boggs down,tried several maps etc and tried tuning,now i put a timing light on it and found nothing changes when its rev'd so pulled the ms out a rechecked the curcuits,they seem ok,jumpers etc so if my wiring loom connections are ok then im stuck.im sure the edis is ok.Any suggestions on something i may have overlooked ?


RichardK - 14/8/09 at 08:32 PM

Where are you mate? Not surprised you can't get it to run right if its in permanent limp home mode.

Do you get any voltage off the pip or saw connectors, reading again it a ms and not a megajolt which I've played with, sorry have no experience with squirts.

I'm sure somebody will be along soon. However I would be having a careful look at the trigger wheel sensor and the shielding on the wiring back to the edis/squirt.

Cheers

Rich

[Edited on 14/8/09 by RichardK]


brianthemagical - 14/8/09 at 08:34 PM

Does the timing change in tunerstudio as it should?
What's the timing measured at?


RichardK - 14/8/09 at 08:37 PM

My guess is 10 degrees BTDC!

Cheers

Rich


jonesier1 - 14/8/09 at 08:52 PM

ok.. it is ms2 v3 with edis4,standard flywheel and sensor.With a white mark in the bottom pulley and the car running and a basic timing light the mark looks to be 10 degrees before and does'nt move when the rpm is increased.All the jumpers xg1 to xg2,tsel to optout and ign to js10,d1,d2 are there
location.. the edge of bodmin moor,cornwall.


brianthemagical - 14/8/09 at 09:15 PM

If it's triggering, then most things will be wired correctly. I'm assuming all four cylinders are running the same?
Does the advance value in MS alter as you rev it?
Maybe try a 'scope on the input for the edis, see if it's getting the correct signal.


02GF74 - 15/8/09 at 09:37 AM

the fact that your engine is running means you have PIP signal - this is the one from the VR sensor that is used by the ecu to detemine TDC so that is can firethe coils.

SAW is the one that controls advance.

As ^^^ says, you need an oscilloscop to see what is what or maybe you could connect a LED and see the flashes/brightness of the flashes to see if anhything is changeing.

You also need to ensure that the VR is fitted in correct place in relation to the toothed wheel so that the missing tooth is atthe correct place - this is what detemrine crank position.


RobLyon - 26/8/09 at 11:02 AM

quote:

go to the Spark Settings menu and set Fixed Angle to 10, then adjust the Trigger Angle until you read 10 degrees with a timing light. Then set Fixed Angle back to -10 to enable spark advance. It’s very important to get the base timing set correctly, as running with the incorrect timing advance can damage your engine.



Is fixed angle set to -10? otherwise it won't reference your spark map and will maintain 10*

HTH,

Rob