I'm now pretty much ready to fire up the engine for the first time but have a quick question regarding the ECU, I'm sure the wiring is all ok, checked and double checked, and I have power to the correct pins (11 & 28). The power on LED lights when the ignitions on position 1&2 but when cranking the ECU LED goes out, stop cranking and it comes back on... Is this normal.

It should be red while the ignition is on and then go green when the engine is cranking.

Likely the edu isn't seeing the crank angle sensor, gap between toothed wheel and sensor too big?

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Originally posted by CNHSS1
Likely the edu isn't seeing the crank angle sensor, gap between toothed wheel and sensor too big?

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First thing is to confirm that it is missing the crank signal, connect up to laptop and read the signal when cranking. If it's the same setup as OEM is likely to be correct just ensure it's wired correctly and that it's working via the laptop screen.
Iirc there's a tick box for two differing styles on sensor, check you have the correct one ticked for your sensor type (hall effect probably?)

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Originally posted by CNHSS1
First thing is to confirm that it is missing the crank signal, connect up to laptop and read the signal when cranking. If it's the same setup as OEM is likely to be correct just ensure it's wired correctly and that it's working via the laptop screen.
Iirc there's a tick box for two differing styles on sensor, check you have the correct one ticked for your sensor type (hall effect probably?)

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Well that was easier than i thought, although i had double checked everything, always tripple check. Once plugged into the laptop when the engine cranked it was loosing connection with the ECU. Not sure what was going on but i checked the wiring and the +12v ignition supply was also supplying one of the relays. I swapped it for a spare green +12v under the dash and BINGO, It now stays connected and i can see the crank sensor on the screen. I do need to sort out where to locate my airtemp sensor? in the filter or outside...

I now just need water and some go juice to fire her up? Hopefully... Fire extinguishers ready

Now my wirings finalised it's time to start trying to fire up. I'm running a 2.0 Zetec, Emerald K3 ECU, Hayabusa 45mm TB's and injectors. The current maps came with the laptop and ECU when i purchased it from a member on here running the same set up. Only had about an hour on this today so I've not had much time to look into it further.

This is how far I've got so far...

-Water systems all plumbed in and filled 1 minor leak needed sorting.
-Small amount of fuel in the tank, enough to prime the pump and circulate through regulator and back to tank, again 1 minor leak needed nipping up, currently pumping at 5bar.
-I had to match the ECU to my TPS and that now reads ok on the screen. Is there anything else that will need the same?
-On the live adjustment screen it's reading my crank sensor ok, about 200rpm, is that enough?
-Voltage drops from reading 12.8v to 7.8 on cranking, brand new 45Ah, 425cca when the pumps running, if i pull the fuse the voltage stays at around 10-11v.
-Not 100% sure on spark/ignition but I think the injectors are finally started getting fuel as there is a smell of fuel in th TB's.
-And my battery cable gets warm, should i increase the size or add a 2nd lead. Its 200amp rated.

Is there a screen that allows me to see injector/ignition firing/or not...

any help is appreciated.

I don't know if the K3 is the same as the K6 - but when cranking the red LED should turn from red to green. I suspect if the LED is going off you're losing power to the ECU. With a laptop plugged in does the ECU go "offline" when you crank it?

It did, but thats now sorted and crank signal is ok. led goes green.

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Originally posted by furryeggs
It did, but thats now sorted and crank signal is ok. led goes green.

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Cables are hanging loose so are close but not touching. I'll make sure to separate them if to close. Haven't check for injectors firing but there is a deffinate smell of petrol when opened, I'm running a dead head set up so I could just need to loosen off the hose at the TB's to bleed any remaining air? I've got some spark plug testers so I'll put them on and check for spark, I think with only 7-8v there might not be enough juice whilst cranking, the battery is brand new but has been in the garage since November and been cranking on and off for a while so I've put it on charge just to make sure.

TPS is set as well

Emerald is sensitive to input voltage, unless you have a really good battery source it wont go, will crank but won't run. Ensure the battery is healthy and well charged or you'll be churning all day...

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Originally posted by CNHSS1
Emerald is sensitive to input voltage, unless you have a really good battery source it wont go, will crank but won't run. Ensure the battery is healthy and well charged or you'll be churning all day...

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Yeah i read the manual too, but you'd be surprised at how easily some garage cranking will drop the battery low enough to cause the ecu issues. Suggest you ensure tye battery is tip top or you will be chasing faults that arent there, been there got the t shirt....

Well, i put the battery on trickle to make sure its charged, It now reads around nd 10v when cranking. Still no spark according to the led testers on the plugs. Checking through the wiring there was a few wires that seemed to either lead to an unused pin or to a terminal on a relay that it shouldn't output-output. I spent last night with the wiring diagram and legend and made sure everythings labelled to the diagram and numbered.

I think that +12v to the coil and injectors wasn't right. I've removed this from the loom and the supplying relay and will run a new wire from a spare unused +12v on my existing loom (heater), The supplied loom came with relays for bits that i don't need so i'm hoping that removing them (unknown condition) to a good new source will clean up any possible interferance and give me a good seperate +12v supply.

Fingers crossed.

Make sure that the 12v supply is live when you are cranking as some switch off when cranking.

If any doubt about the live feed when cranking try taking a fused feed direct from the battery just to test.

IT'S ALIVE you beauty... plugged it all back in, checked wiring, fired straight up. Shat myself as i wasn't expecting it.

Don't believe it, there's no start up video. Was it low battery voltage?

I have a video, not sure how to load it on here though??? The 12v supply to the coils and injectors was mixed up somewhere between the relay and ECU. Scrapped the relay and ran power from a spare +12v heater supply. Battery voltage was a little low but it cranks a lot better now fully charged.

I was worried about oil pressure with my DIY sump and pick up but that all seems ok. My only worry now is my battery light stays on at tickover even though the alternators running? I'm on nights for the next 4 days so i haven't looked into it further yet, other than that and a new reverse switch the wiring and plumbing are complete