has anyone of you fine people got a diagram of how to wire the busa into a mk loom and more specifically the tip switch is it in the closed or open position as default setting linked it out tonight and it through up a load of fault codes. one of which is the f42 code which as anti theft but as i understand it there is no coded key do i need to use the ignition barrel from the bike. shut the garage door for tonight before frustation gets the better of me expect more of these posts as the wiring is ongoing one more thing the bike will not start without the clutch been pulled in how do i over come this
cheers from one very baffeled builder rob

Hi, if you dont have the manual...have an look here: http://www.repairmanualclub.com/index.php?cid=9

The tip over sensor is resistive so you need to emulate an resistance...donīt know the year of your engine.

Re clutch: Important!! later year Suzukis has an lower RPM limit when clutch is open...so you need the clutch switch to work! beacuse as you know..the engine wont start if clutch not is open.
Either you put an extra switch on dash or use an two pole starter switch or actually put an microswitch engaged by your clutch.

This might help from a previous thread;

Tilt takes a 68Kohm resistor
Sidestand takes a jumper
Clutch lever position takes a jumper
ECU needs a 150ohm resistor between O/Y and B/W
Engine stop switch takes a jumper

You can use standard 1/4 watt resistors but the larger 1/2 or 1 watt resistors are physically more durable.

You can also put a 6k8 resistor on the gear position indicator sensor to fool the ECU into thinking it's in 5th gear - gives more aggressive ignition curves in the lower gears and takes off the 6th gear lower rev limiter.

I've actually taken out the cut out relays completely and replaced them with jumpers, but haven't started up the engine yet so don't hold your breath!

I beg to differ regarding Clutch takes an jumper. You get loss of RPM and retarded ignition curve!

Suzuki put in this feature to save their engines from maniacs redlining for fun in the parkinglot....and save costīs on their warranty....In neutral and open clutch!

Other info: Great!

I don't agree, you can rev the Boll*cks off an engine in neutral, you don't have to pull the clutch in.

What arrangement do you advise?

Some telling examples of Suzuki magic:
http://forums.13x.com/showthread.php?t=131612

Some moore input:
http://www.gixxer.com/forums/showthread.php?p=3252796

Generally Suzuki done this with newer models.

Interesting. I'll check out the wiring diagram and watch for it when I rolling road it.

Sounds very good!
Own proof is the best!

Please report your findings...from what i read regarding Hayabusas of different years had their RPM limit lowered by 600 alt 1200Rpm in neutral and/or clutch pulled in.

Ignitionretardment (mostly affecting power) is "substansially"....but have not seen any "proofing" powercurves.

But understanding why Suzuki put in these "features" on newer models i can only suspect an messaureble difference.

Would be very intressted in your resultīs.

What year of busa are you running?

thyanks so far got a manual workshop type keep any other sugestions coming
rob

I'm running a 99 Busa.

I am in the same boat as Sucksqueezebang blow.

I have done all the resistor mods and jumpered the same connections.

Hope to have it running in a week or so.Then I need to order a prop for it.

I do have access to a dyno so could give conclusive proof if having the clutch switch jumpered or working as OE does or does not make a difference.

For the record Westfield do advise wiring in a microswitch on the clutch pedal...

I didnt do this as I begrudged paying them to modify my loom.It might turn round and bite me on the ar*e haha.

I will also ask on the Westfield forum what other people have done.

let me know how you get on been in the garage this morning and done the mods no more fault codes hope to have mine running within the next few weeks so will post results keep them coming rob

Any news in this clutch switch matter?
Anybody tested yet on dyno?

Nothing from me yet as I am still waiting for some bits for my dry sump system.(why cant people do what you ask them to do? )

I did ask on the Westfield forums and when you pay Westfield to mod the loom they do not fit a clutch switch so thats promising .

I think Bob has posted that he is running now though.

i have a westfield factory built busa - the clutch pedal on mine hasnt any switch at all - for what purpose would it serve?

currently i'm doing a full wiring diagram as to whats on the car - if you think theres the wiring diagram from suzuki and westfield using 2 different colour codes - got about 50% done so far - once the full diagram is complete i will seperate each circuit and work out exactly how it works - all the values etc

the diagram is in a real layout of the car - so i can see where stuff is - what colour connectors are etc

also there seems to be a lot of spare connections - where did they go? along with the stack rev guage with lots of stuff coming out the back - ready for options - what goes where? be nice to know

I believe though stand to be corrected the clutch switch was probably put on due to the starter clutch issues on the earlier engines.

I think that was fixed by Suzuki around 2002?Not 100% sure on the details and as I said earlier I could be totally wrong.

im running a 99 engine and we have had to put a starter switch on to bypass the clutch switch will have a look in tgh garage this morning and remember how its been done it is now running though going to fit the power commander today got a a f meter to get it set up something like then its off to z cars for fine tuning let me know if i can help in any way
rob

just had it running for half an hour no fires or leaks which is a bonus got up to temp everything works. only need to do the speedo pickup now anyone got any pics to see how others have done it, i was going to use the bolts on the flange but the knuckels on the uj will get picked up as well i think does anyone know if this is so well chuffed rob