I'm now in need of ANOTHER (3rd one) hydraulic brake light switch and am convinced a pedal mounted normal thing is better.
Hydraulic ones are in the £10~12 bracket and bleeding the brakes after changing is a real pain.
However it doesn't look easy on my floor mounted bias bar pedal set up, its welded in... its another pain in the ass as to get the bar out to
drop the brake pedal means taking the body off!!! AAAAARRRRRRRGGGGGGHHHHHHHH!!!!
Anybody done this, got any pics, suggest any other way? What do the rest of u use???
Ta,
Steve
Plenty of production cars use drybollock switches reliably. What make are you using, not Fuel Parts by any chance ?
VW Polo ones are standard 10mm thread, about £20 for a genuine one.
It doesn't have to go down by the pedals. Put it somewhere easy to get to. T off rear line under the bonnet. Leave the old one in but disconnect the wires.
He means that he's sick of the hydralic switch failing and wants to swap to a mechanical switch instead.
Coozer, I looked at this and it's not easy with floor mounted pedals. Only ways I could work it out was by having a push rod off the back of the
pedal, through the bulkhead and a switch bracket, on the engine side, being activated by the push rod. Either that or a "pull switch" set
up. Both were compilcated and I've stuck with the presure switch.
quote:
Originally posted by adithorp
He means that he's sick of the hydralic switch failing and wants to swap to a mechanical switch instead.
Coozer, I looked at this and it's not easy with floor mounted pedals. Only ways I could work it out was by having a push rod off the back of the pedal, through the bulkhead and a switch bracket, on the engine side, being activated by the push rod. Either that or a "pull switch" set up. Both were compilcated and I've stuck with the presure switch.
They're supposedly better in the front as they switch sooner due to the presure. Mine is in the rear though, as it was just easier from a
packaging point of view (plus I didn't think about it first). Only had one failure on mine and the current one has been in for 3 1/2
years/12000miles. So... the rear might be the way to go.
As for bleeding... My T has the switch side pointing up. I fill the hole in the switch with Girling brake seal grease to stop it having an air bubble
in it then swap the switches quick. The fluid dribbles out while while swapping and if your quick then it's self bled and good to go. Just dont
drop or cross thread the switch in your haste.
Problem is mines on the side.. I used to have it on top and it didnt work, probably due to air in the switch...good tip on filling it with grease. Wish I'd thought of that before I moved the pipes round and put it on the side.. DOH!
Leave the faulty one in and fit annother anywhere its got better access. close to one of the front calipers will work fine and less bleeding afterwards.
quote:
Originally posted by coozer
Problem is mines on the side.. I used to have it on top and it didnt work, probably due to air in the switch...good tip on filling it with grease. Wish I'd thought of that before I moved the pipes round and put it on the side.. DOH!
Just been over to Eurocarparts and they are common fitment to Vag motors over the years.
£5.45 for a FEA OEM jobbie, hope that lasts. Might as well strip the Wilwoods and clean them up while I'm on.
I would be wanting to know why the wet ones where failing so much!
quote:
Originally posted by dhutch
I would be wanting to know why the wet ones where failing so much!
Do not orientate the switch with the terminals uppermost. When beleeding air bubbles can collect, and then the switch may not work due to the air
bubble compressing and not operating the switch.
Just my 2d's worth, and experience.
quote:
Originally posted by rost
quote:
Originally posted by dhutch
I would be wanting to know why the wet ones where failing so much!
Too much current through them? Are you guys using a relay for the stoplights?
Mine on the striker hasn't broken yet, but I'm running LED lights at the back, so not that much current.
I had a switch like that neatly mounted for ignition actuation, a safety switch that won't let you start til the clutch is depressed. The switch failed in a fairly short time. I would think the hydraulic ones are used for a good reason.
Right then chaps, anyone want to come round and point and laugh???
Bought another switch from Eurocarparts... cheap if anyone needs them £5.45...
Sanity check on the switch.. no voltage on the multimeter.. study the manual (dead easy when you use the sierra loom
) remove the scuttle, trace the
wires.. odd thing... checks the continuity OK, voltage on one side of the fuse.. wait for it..... fuse missing.. how the hell... the guys sworn they
were working on the way down to Stoneleigh and stopped as we passed through the village.
New fuse in and they work fine...
Theres no way a fuse can fall out surely? And, are they all suffering form dementia behind me????
And, just to be sure they were working the time before when I had it out .. for MOT!
DOH!
I have used a Goodridge banjo
switch ,the thinking being that it might possibly be better quality than the normal
Chinese offering.
[Edited on 12-5-12 by 40inches]
On the fury I have this microswitch: http://hartmann-codier.de/family_20.html?id=198&lang=en
It handles 16A and has 6.3mm terminals.
I made a bracket for it that the pedal releases the switch at a slight pedal depression. If the striker's hydraulic switch ever breaks I'm
converting to this too.
Both are top mounted pedals, but there must be a way to do this on floor mounted pedals too.
quote:
Originally posted by coozer
Right then chaps, anyone want to come round and point and laugh???
Bought another switch from Eurocarparts... cheap if anyone needs them £5.45...
Sanity check on the switch.. no voltage on the multimeter.. study the manual (dead easy when you use the sierra loom
New fuse in and they work fine...
Theres no way a fuse can fall out surely? And, are they all suffering form dementia behind me????
And, just to be sure they were working the time before when I had it out .. for MOT!
DOH!
I have got a hydraulic switch in the rear plumbing with the terminals upwards. It takes a lot of force before the brake lights come on. I have bled
the brakes at the switch due to the previous bubble compression problem but its still the same.
Can you get more sensitive switches or should i T and put a switch on the front instead.
Dont mean to hi Jack the OP but this may be related or help. I will start another post if requested.
I Dont want to mount another non hydraulic switch as this system almost works for me.
Cheers.
Biz
My Raw supplied brake kit comes witha 3way adapter to use at the front only a few inches from the M/C. With the supplied brake line lengths, I see no option but to mount it facing up, but seems the better way is to have it pointing down.
quote:
Originally posted by loggyboy
So was the hydraulic one not faulty then?
Hi Coozer,
You were right with the switch and I have replaced it.
It now works perfectly woohoo!!
I have updated this for reference. Future searching fountain of knowledge and all that jazz.
The brake light switch was faulty and replacing it with a new switch from Eurocar parts FAE 464550020 fixed the sensitivity problem.
Biz
How to change a hydraulic brake light switch.
(1) Assistant is required.
(2) Slacken or remove master cylinder lid.
(3) Assistant gently presses the pedal while you slacken the switch Use cloth to absorb fluid commong out.
(4) Assistant holds pedal down.
(5 Screw new switch on and lightly tighten.
(6) Assistant can let pedal back up.
(7 As you slacken switch a couple of turns your assistant gently presses pedal down and holds it down.
(8) While assistant holds pedal down fully tighten switch.
(9) Assistant releases pedal.
(10) Top up reservoir
(11) Assistant presses pedal hard while you check for leaks.
quote:
Originally posted by wilkingj
Do not orientate the switch with the terminals uppermost. When beleeding air bubbles can collect, and then the switch may not work due to the air bubble compressing and not operating the switch.
Just my 2d's worth, and experience.