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Testing Starter
robbydee - 20/1/05 at 11:00 AM

At the moment i am convinced the started is up the duff...
When i swith on the ignition i get nothing no horn no lights no hazards etc..
but battery is flly charged..
As the main feed from the battery goes straight to the starter could my problem be there>>??

I tried testing on a bench with another battery using live and earth, and a switch wire but nuthing..
Any other opinions b4 spending the money?
thanks Rob..


britishtrident - 20/1/05 at 11:31 AM

The fact that nothing is working tells me it is nothing to do with the starter itself but sugests everything to do with the connections--- Are you sure you have identified the correct oconnections on the starter solenoid --- one connection will be the ballast by-pass connection.

Safety note --- When working on batteries disconnect the battery earth cable first and reconnect it last.

Start by properly cleaning the battery termminals and the earth straps (battery to to chassis and chassis to engine) then before you reconnect the battery remove clean the all the connections to the starter solenoid.

The usuall way of testing a starter is to connect it to a battery and short across the solenoid main connections with decent sized screw driver.
If it turns when you do this suspect a solenoid fault or sticking engagement fork.

[Edited on 20/1/05 by britishtrident]

[Edited on 20/1/05 by britishtrident]


Mix - 20/1/05 at 11:39 AM

Sounds more like a problem with the ignition switch to me.

Mick


robbydee - 20/1/05 at 11:43 AM

have tried with the starter out, connecting accross the terminals but nothing..?have just cleaned alll the terminals and things.

Just out of curiosity the car is on axle stands on concrete not on the tyres on the ground would this make any differnce?? OR AM I BEING STUPID.? IE NO RETURN TO EARTH ...


robbydee - 20/1/05 at 11:44 AM

JUST READ WHAT I WROTE.. DUMMM RUBBER TYRES ETC DONT CONDUCT...

I WILL PHONE THE MEDICS MYSELF..


Mix - 20/1/05 at 11:53 AM

When the starter is removed do the other services operate OK?

Mick


David Jenkins - 20/1/05 at 12:12 PM

I strongly recommend that you get one of those screwdrivers with a 12v bulb in it (they're really cheap) or rig up a 12v bulb yourself.

Then you can easily see where the volts are...

David


robbydee - 20/1/05 at 12:55 PM

besides the starter where else should the live feed?

Wanted diagram!


robbydee - 20/1/05 at 01:05 PM

how can i get any voltage anywhere with the starter reomved/?
the battery only goes to that!

have tested with a multimeter and all earths and connections are good.

the starter being normally closed therefor no continuity there. between the + and brown right?

or is that my problem? shouldn`t there be a circuit so everything else works!??



[Edited on 20/1/05 by robbydee]


David Jenkins - 20/1/05 at 01:26 PM

There are 2 possible answers:

1. If you have an old-fashioned inertia starter like mine, then the battery +ve goes to a big terminal on the solenoid, and the starter lead goes to the other terminal. The car's electrics are fed from the battery-side terminal on the solenoid.

2. If you've got a pre-engaged starter (as seems likely) then the +ve battery lead goes to a big terminal on the starter. At one end of this lead (usually the starter end) there will be another, smaller lead that feeds the rest of the car's electrics. This smaller lead may only go as far as the alternator, and the car is fed from somewhere on there. The starter will have another small terminal where the connection from the starter key operates the starter's built-in solenoid.

It sounds like you're missing the connection from that lead to the rest of the car.

Does that help?

David


robbydee - 20/1/05 at 02:22 PM

deffinatly the old style.. Rescued attachment starter copy.jpg
Rescued attachment starter copy.jpg


David Jenkins - 20/1/05 at 03:10 PM

That's the "new" style! (pre-engaged)

I would expect to see a second lead coming from that 'live' connector, heading towards the fuse box. It will be held under the same nut as the lead coming from the battery. Or maybe the brown connector's involved...

My experience is running out - can anyone else here add anything? Alternatively, wait until I get home tonight and can look at my Haynes books...

David

[Edited on 20/1/05 by David Jenkins]


robbydee - 20/1/05 at 03:50 PM

u sure this is new "preengaged"?? Rescued attachment starter2.jpg
Rescued attachment starter2.jpg


David Jenkins - 20/1/05 at 03:57 PM

Certainly is... The solenoid on top "pre-engages" the gear wheel with the starter ring on the flywheel, and when it's fully home turns on the power to the motor.

DJ


BMF - 20/1/05 at 03:58 PM

Had the same problem with mine.

Get your battery, some jump leads and a hammer!

Give it a whack all over as if they have been sat for a while they seize up, then connect +ve to big terminal on starter and negative to any metal on starter.

Then get a bit of wire and bridge the +ve battery and ignition connections.

After 5 min of banging and playing I had a working starter. Best bit of whacking ever and because the starter is solid, no damage.

Ben


David Jenkins - 20/1/05 at 08:18 PM

I didn't think a lack of starter was the problem - it's the lack of power to the rest of the car, wasn't it?

David


britishtrident - 20/1/05 at 08:42 PM

The termminal you have marked "browns here" is the ballast ressistor by-pass connection.

Browns wires go to the same bolt as the live connection.

[Edited on 20/1/05 by britishtrident]


robbydee - 20/1/05 at 09:59 PM

there could be my answer!!

In my foolish rush to remove the engine etc, did not take notice of where these wires came from...

I think its also a coicidence that the soleniod had also jammed..
(but now free on the bench thanks to large rubber mallet!)
Will update post tomorrow when had a chance to refit and try..!


stevebubs - 20/1/05 at 10:02 PM

quote:
Originally posted by robbydee
how can i get any voltage anywhere with the starter reomved/?
the battery only goes to that!



The lead from the battery to the starter normally *only* gives power to the starter, and this is switched by power from the main loom.

There's normally a secondary lead from the battery +ive connector to give power to the *REST* of the car (via the fusebox). If this is missing, then I thing you're on the road to nowhere.