I mentioned this in other threads, my coil pack is located under the dash and I have decided to relocate it using a bracket below the carbs. To do this I have to cut off the coil pack plug and then I would like to solder on extension wires to more it to the new location - or a similar joining method that will be reliable.

I have a reasonable soldering iron but I am a real beginner and have only soldered where access is easy and this is definitely not!

Any suggestion on how I approach? I have seen some "helping hand" devices that would be useful but many I could do with something like this that is small with a magnetic base as there is not much room under the dash and I will be doing this lying on my back above the pedals (the dash will not come out enough to give me access without alot of grief). Also the clips would act as heat sinks to help avoid any heat damage when re-soldering on the plug on the extension wires.

Also what dia wires should i buy?
Thanks

Have a look at the crimp type connectors with heat shrink , probably easier and more reliable. I would suggest practicing soldering on a bench before hanging upside down behind a dash , been there , got the scars!

I must be missing something as I don't see why you need to be in the car contorted to do the soldering.

You say you are moving the coil pack in order to extend the lead, why can't this be done on a bench?.

To extend the lead, cut the individual wires but stagger the cut, this prevents the joining lumps being in the same place, useful if feeding the lead through a hole.


Take the extension wire and strip it back about 15 mm, push the tiny copper wires into the other wire on the lead that has also been stripped to 15nm and twist together. Apply flux, not necessary but it helps, dab some solder onto the tip, place against the join to heat it up and feed in the solder. Of course you will have remembered to put a short section of heatshrink tube first.

I am certain there will be YouTube videos showing exactly this.

What people don't understand about electrical soldering is that a good mechanical joint is made first, the twisting of the wires in this case, the solder makes the electrical join.

Ok, I've not watched all of this but it looks to be exactly what I'm on about.

https://youtu.be/qxqZJH3SfN4

[Edited on 27/2/19 by 02GF74]

while I would probably use solder connections and heat-shrink, (but proper lead based 60/40 solder)
for you crimps will do the job very well.
for wire thickness, use at least as thick as the current wires. also try to keep the colour coding the same!

ps, get a decent crimp tool

The original coil pack is located on the aft face of the engine bulkhead and there is only around 125mm length of tail I can get to from the coil plug.

I am moving the coil pack as I am sure the leads are getting damaged running through the engine bulkhead which is causing a misfire now and again (or I want to rule out this cause). I have to sent the lead so I can move it.

I have practiced soldering already and was planning to twist the wires before soldering as suggested but it would be great to hold them in the right place whilst I am doing the soldering. I will crimp if I have to but will need to buy a good crimping tool first!

saw this on ebay.. seen others which are similar with clips. anyone used similar?
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Soldering-iron-magnetic-aid-helping-hand-clamp-holder-solder/173277220552?hash=item2858208ec8:g:L~wAAOSwZtNa2GYK:rk:2:pf:1& amp;frcectupt=true

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Originally posted by AlexXtreme
I am moving the coil pack as I am sure the leads are getting damaged running through the engine bulkhead which is causing a misfire now and again (or I want to rule out this cause). I have to sent the lead so I can move it.

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I would but there is not enough wire under the dash to run them to the engine compt.. The original builder must have shortened the lead.

I'm not a fan of twisting soldered joints, I'd tin both ends, then solder them together......not forgetting to apply the heat-shrink first!!

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Originally posted by owelly
I'm not a fan of twisting soldered joints, I'd tin both ends, then solder them together......not forgetting to apply the heat-shrink first!!

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A good soldered joint won't fail. Twisting the wires together just makes for a clumsy joint and is unnecessary. I'll also add, using a small amount of solder and just enough heat stops the solder from wicking down the wire, which keeps the wire flexible, thus reducing the chances of fracturing.

If it’s good enough for nasa then it’s good enough for you!

Always have some kind of mechanical joint as well as solder!

https://workmanship.nasa.gov/lib/insp/2%20books/links/sections/407%20Splices.html

I am going to try the cloths pegs idea... I like Lo Cost!
After that I will go for one of these... https://www.amazon.co.uk/Silverline-PL55-Ratchet-Crimping-Tool/dp/B000LFTKNW/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1551359326&sr=8-4&keywords=crimp%2Btoo l&th=1
Don't normally buy Silverline but this looks OK and I don't thing I will be using that much.. if I do I will get something decent :-)
Alex

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Originally posted by tegwin
If it’s good enough for nasa then it’s good enough for you!

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Originally posted by owelly
A good soldered joint won't fail.

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Mike, agreed!
The problem I have is keeping the wires still still enough (mainly due to the poor access) to get heat in to the wires without the soldering iron or the wires moving. Tried once and it took a too long get the solder to run in to the twisted wires.. by the time I did, I noticed that the heat had run up the the shrink wrap near with obvious results!
Going to try crimping now..

Have a look at heat shrink solder sleeves

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Originally posted by rusty nuts
Have a look at heat shrink solder sleeves

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Stuck with soldering and it worked out fine even if access was not that good... There is quite some satisfaction from getting a good solder joint I have found :-). Also made custom spark plug leads for the new coil pack and everything worked much to my amazement!
I am a composite structural engineer and spend most of my time behind a computer...

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Originally posted by 02GF74

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Originally posted by tegwin
If it’s good enough for nasa then it’s good enough for you!

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Ah yes, I was wondering how long it will be before the nasa document props up.

I don't recall what method nasa propose but nasa have lost two shuttles where as I've lost none, I know which method I'll continue to use.

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