Time to make my self look stupid again!!
Where is the fuse box in a MK indy??
Something strainge happend.
The thing that is behind the steering wheel which turns the lights on and off start smoking today.
The lights now is permantly on and the red lights at the back of the car dont work (when I brake though they do work)
The indicators etc work fine.
Any ideas? I cant find the fuse box though to check the fuses.
Please help!!
Thanks in advance

I really really wanted to answer with really Sarcy-arse responses as most of your questions do tend to lend themselves to it, but I shall refrain!

the fusebox in your indy is wherever it was put when built, ie no specific place to tell you to look! However it should, in theory, be in one of a number of obvious places - under the dash, on the scuttle, on a chassis rail in the engine bay etc.

I assume you are referring to a light switch of some sort on your dash - it may help if you say which switches you are using - ie ford sierra ones/aftermarket ones?

It sounds like you may have had two wires short themselves out by touching/burning/melting together.
and even though it is a good idea to locate your fusebox, you probably should check/seperate any dodgy wiring first!

If you are unsure you may want to disconnect your battery before you go any further just in case!

Indicators etc are using a different circuit of wiring so could well be unaffected (for now)

HTH
Steve

Hi Kastrato - I guess you never built the MK Indy you currently have then? Or maybe you have a very bad memory

It sounds like there is a short in the parking/sidelight switch, this is generally not run through a relay as the power is relatively small. Regarding the fuses, they could be either:

1. Under left hand of scuttle (above passenger footwell)
2. Under the bonnet on the battery tray.
3. In the rear tray (boot?)

Generally they are somewhere dry! You need to remove the fuse and find the source of the problem. It takes quite a large power draw to melt the switch gear about 60-100 Watts should do it. Cumulative power of the sidelight circuit it generally only 23W. Something is seriously wrong to cause this and may drain your battery very quickly... if you cannot find the fuses - disconnect the battery!

Steve

Thanks Hellfire, I will try and find it tomorrow!

Dear Steve (worX):
I may sound silly , or funny or even stupid,
but dont forget that I am coming from another country (language capability limited) and also my qualifications are not related with cars. I am an Architect.
What do you know about houses? and if you do I dare you to describe a problem which your cavity wall might have in your house in Greek.
I bought my car already built ( cause I am not capable of building it my self ) but it is not against the law for somebody to have a kit car without being a mechanic.
At least I have the will to learn and in order to do that I need to ask.
In the end I want to appologize for the inconvinience causiong for some people but this is the only way.

It is the right switch.
There was originaly another switch there for the wippers but the previous owner have broke this as was not needed. The remainings wires he wrapped them aroung the swith so I am thinking that is the "loose connection" I am looking for.
I am in the process of disassembly the switch to check if everything alright internal of it otherwise I am guessing that the wires wrapped around the switch without any insullation (tape) might cause the problem.

Here it is
Rescued attachment P5040026mmm.jpg

Kasrato, please don't apologise for asking questions - we can all learn from others' problems. I certainly do.

Now, about my cavity wall......

Well don't I feel like I should be sitting in the corner with a pointed hat on.

The reason I put my comment was to actually send out a notion that it's not always appropriate to make a sarcastic remark, even though your questions (on a forum like this), if asked at a different time of day might of been inundated with those type of comments.

I went on to not only NOT remark sarcastically but to give as accurate /honest answer I could. Especially as you do not consider English as your first language!

I must apologise if what I said offended you in anyway.

Steve


Oh, and here's my attempt at the Greek!
'Exw eva npoBynua ue tov toixo koiyotntwv uou

edited to add - I actually looked in your photo archive to identify your switchgear in an attempt to help, but you don't yet have photos of your build which is why I asked about your switches!

quote:

---

Originally posted by kastrato
Dear Steve (worX):
I may sound silly , or funny or even stupid,
but dont forget that I am coming from another country (language capability limited) and also my qualifications are not related with cars. I am an Architect.
What do you know about houses? and if you do I dare you to describe a problem which your cavity wall might have in your house in Greek.
I bought my car already built ( cause I am not capable of building it my self ) but it is not against the law for somebody to have a kit car without being a mechanic.
At least I have the will to learn and in order to do that I need to ask.
In the end I want to appologize for the inconvinience causiong for some people but this is the only way.

---

kastrato,

I do not think Steve was intending to be offensive,
Again the written word along with the translation can often be misunderstood,

Stevec.

as steve pointed out this is most likely a wiring fault and you need to start checking your wires your fusebox will have most likely been put under the bonnet by the battery area

or under your dash

its not very big as its from the motorbike

its a rectangle shape with a big white sticker on the top most likely

Sorry for the explosion yesterday.
I felt stupid that is why I said all these things.
I appologize again this time for the things I said.
By the way yes it is funny in the end what you said in Greek!!
I hope you can forgive me for all this.
backto the problem now.
Under my dash there is a series of hundreds of cables all tied up very very messy!!It is impossible to understand which is which as there are in a very messy order.
I believe that the problem is coming from the actuall switch cause when I remove it (disconnect it) everything worked very well, the lights are staying on all the time though.

Is there some one nearby who can help this lad out.

Or at the very least recommend a trusty auto electrician to take a look at it

If you have a camera with a good flash, take a pic of what you've got to give us a bit more of an idea - as trying to give advice when we can't see is a bit tricky!

post up a photo of everything you can see under the dash.

Having said that, if I were you, and it sounds like a bit of a mess under there, I would take the dash off first to have a proper look! This shouldn't cause you too much hassle even though you are not toatally car orientated - it should be just a case of undoing all the bolts round the outside.

Once you've done that take a decent photo and someone will stand a better chance of helping out!

Steve

whoops, just remembered you've already had your dash off - well if it's still off - take the photo and get it posted!

I would agree- take a picture or 2 of the wiring.

Even if it just helps us identify the loom (is it a Premier) then that may help.

Best Regards,
James

Kastrato,

Never under estimate your sense of smell. I am an electrical engineer and used to find most faults just by sniffing around where the wires are.
At the point of fault you will smell a carbon/coal type smell.

You may look silly for a while and not find anything but if you do find the fault it saves a lot of dismantalling.

Ian

At this point I want to thank everybody for the precious help!
I received a life saving U2U from Chris which he offered to check my car for me if I bring it over to his!
Guys I think that you all desearve credits and especially Chris!
Thanks again!
Thanks!

Chris is a top Bloke nad does know his stuff when it comes to wiring - but if you can't manage to get from huddersfield to cannock, then might I suggest that you get your car to the Newark showground next weekend and both Chris, myself and probably about 50 more people would love to help you out with it!!!

Steve

Appreciated the offer but next Thursday I am off to Greece!
I hope I will be able to go to Chris's house prior that...

If you can get down to MK on Saturday morning, ourselves and a few others will be able to look at it for you and give you advice and maybe even fix it for you.

Phil

Thanks guys!
Propably this is what is going to happend.
As Chris is a bit far away (about 2 hours from me) and mk is 1 hour away.
Just to make sure is MK's postcode
S81 9RL?

Thats correct. Which way will you be travelling down?

Phil

Propably though little towns to M1
At the moment the clutch is slipping I will change the springs Saturday morning and if the problem is fixed I will drive the car there otherwise I will take it with my trailer

By the way Hellfire these comics in your website are well funny!!!!!

Just a word of warning. MK are closed Saturday afternoons, so make sure you fit your springs early on Saturday morning or trailer it down.

Phil

I will give them a try today!!
cross your fingers!!!

Fingers crossed and good luck. There is no need to drop all the oil out of the engine, and make sure you have a replacement clutch cover gasket to re-fit as the old one may not be reuseable. Changing the springs themselves is quite straightforward, just make sure you tighten them evenly and to the required torque.

Phil

I did changed them!!!!
But the clutch is still slipping...
The friction plates are fine, the barnett spring fitted correctly, I dont understand what is happening.
Slips when cold and in low revs then working fine. I dont know what else to do.
(I used motorbike oil ofcourse.)

Just out of curiosity, how do you know the frictions are OK?

Phil

I didn't measure them but they were looked alright to me. I did not take them out of the "basket" but from the prespective I had they were looking fine.
The clutch cable was looked a bit tired. Tomorrow I will try to adjust the cable (tighted it up).
That means I wont be able to come to MK tomorrow. Can you do it another day? Thusday for example??

I doubt very much that you'd be able to notice wear on your friction plates by eye. The difference between a new plate and a worn plate is only approx 0.4mm.

First thing to check would be the clutch cable. Ensure that it is free/slack when at rest. Then take the car out for a spin and whilst travelling slowly, put it into 4th or 5th gear and floor the throttle. If you have a slipping clutch, this will be when it is most noticeable.

If your clutch does slip, you'll need to change the clutch friction plates at least. Whilst you're doing this, check your steels for any signs of warpage and blueing.

If you can get that done before Wednesday , there is a meeting at Ackworth. If you can get there, we and a few others will be able to take a look at your Indy. Good luck.

Phil

[Edited on 9-6-07 by Hellfire]

If it only slips when cold - it may be the wrong grade of oil or it's overfull!

Steve

Must be the friction plates cause I used the right oil (I change it myself for my own piece of mind)
10W-40 motorbike oil to the right level.
I wont be able t ocome on Wensday either cause I am waiting for my results from the Uni on the 13th and then I am off to Greece.
Thanks again for all the help Phil ( and all the rest!)
Really APPRECIATED!!!!
You are the best!!