You know theres a design flaw if they dim when you usee the electric windows
Ok need a solution as I nearly came off the road tonight....
Have a skoda 1.9 td on a 51 Plate, (need fuel good fuel conspumption)
Lights have Always been poop tried changing the bulbs to help it now has got 100W bulbs on the front (dipped and full) didn't help
Headlamps on Full are poor and on dipped even worse.
Headlamps are a bit opaque with age but not to bad.
would be better sticking a candle up my A*** and using that to see. I need to do something ........ or i'll end up on a ditch
If there is a car behind my car causes a shadow in there lights.
Drastic measures or suggestions needed.! Urgently
[Edited on 10/101/12 by mad4x4]
rally lights on the roof
Try fitting a pair of dipping cibie spotlamps. Turns night into day.
If it' any consolation I've always thought the sma of my Saab lights.
You know theres a design flaw if they dim when you usee the electric windows
Check the charging voltage when the lights are on, at 4x100 watt plus other loads the alternator will be worked hard to supply current and maintain voltage. The difference in brightness between 14.4 volts and 13 can be very significant.
Slow down? 
Did they fit any of the higher sped models with projection lens HID lights?! If so.... can you get some?
It seems a common trick with the polo...the guys with the 1.1/1.4 polos trying to get hold of the HID projection units from the GTI....
If the lenses are opaque try buffing them up with a machine polisher and some g3 compound. It does make a difference and have done it on loads of
plastic lenses on headlamps.
Rob
Also make sure your headlamp levellers are set to 0.
When mine (04 fabia) are set to dip down, the lights might as well not be on, and the switch is in such a place you tend to catch it with your knuckle
every time you turn the lights on. So every now and then you have to turn them back up and also your dash illumination.
I've "fixed" a few mk4 astras with no dash lights because of this too! lol and no I didn't charge
quote:
Originally posted by COREdevelopments
If the lenses are opaque try buffing them up with a machine polisher and some g3 compound. It does make a difference and have done it on loads of plastic lenses on headlamps.
Rob
Check the earth leads, battery to motor is ok because it starts but look at motor to body or battery to body depending on how they do it.
I've had this years ago, lights poor even with 100w bulbs and eventually found my car had a really rough body earth point.
Agree on the earthing points but is there any chance they have been fiddled with and re-wired wrong. Heads have the two elements in series with main
and dip wires connected at opposite ends but the earth Teed into the middle so they are not really in series. This allows either one or the other
element (or both) to be switched on. If the earth wire is swapped with dip wire then dip still works fine but main does end up trying to run both
elements in series and they go dim. If a previous owner has been fiddling? Just possible?
[Edited on 11/1/12 by Dusty]
You can sort the lenses by polishing them with toothpaste!
I don't know which brand is best though!!
There's a similar "feature" on MK2 Golfs (is your Skoda based on one? Early models where?) and it's down to voltage drop. The
route to the headlights is that convoluted that the amps and volts is too low at the bulb end.
The solution (and one I've fitted to my MK2 Golf) is a switching relay that's triggered by the existing wiring but then connected to the
battery - giving the lights a full healthy supply straight from a good source.
I've made a loom up similar to this and the difference in my headlights is staggering. I have HID's in my other car and honestly
there's only the colour of light that's the difference, the output is very very similar.
http://www.matey-matey.com/uprated_headlight_wiring.shtml
quote:
Originally posted by McLannahan
There's a similar "feature" on MK2 Golfs (is your Skoda based on one? Early models where?) and it's down to voltage drop. The route to the headlights is that convoluted that the amps and volts is too low at the bulb end.
The solution (and one I've fitted to my MK2 Golf) is a switching relay that's triggered by the existing wiring but then connected to the battery - giving the lights a full healthy supply straight from a good source.
I've made a loom up similar to this and the difference in my headlights is staggering. I have HID's in my other car and honestly there's only the colour of light that's the difference, the output is very very similar.
http://www.matey-matey.com/uprated_headlight_wiring.shtml
Before tearing the wiring apart use a DMM to measure the voltage across the bulb by back probing the bulb holder and compare the reading with
the voltage accross the battery posts, if you get a significant volts drop between the 2 readings it points to a wiring/connection/earthing issue
if not the earths and wiring are fine.
On a modern car with a decent sized alternator if measuring across the battery posts you cant get around 14.2 v at 2000 rpm with the dip beam on
something is wrong.