About time for a bit of an update I think!

It may not look like it but quite a bit of progress has been made.

The engine is fully plumbed in now and sounds sweet as a nut. The hardest part was finding all the hose's that i'd taken off the airbox and ICV as they were lost in the depth's of the garage.


To keep everything in the bonnet line this is my airfilter set-up. I've had to trim the mounting boot at an angle to bring it in towards the airbox, the airbox will have some mounting brackets bolted to it, so then I can pull it in tighter with cable ties, using the plank of wood method from the scuttle to the nose cone this clears it with about 0.00001020201 of a MM spare.






Hopefully with the airfilter mounted on the heat shield it should get nice cool air. I've a little NACA duct to fit to the nosecone to draw cold air straight onto it. It fits just inside the nosecone as you can see, with about 10mm around it. the hardest part was working out if the fan switch would still fit in, speaking of which its a duel switch however i've wired it so it comes on at 80 deg C, I've also fitted a fan override switch on the dash too. The radiator with its thicker than standard core(75mm extreme version) seems to keep everything in check nicely. Even on hot days the fan brings it down in temp quite quick. Think the fact the radiator sits at an angle so you can have a larger surface area than normal is a nice touch.

I had to put a blanking piece on the air suction feed for the brake servo(short red hose)
Also a temporary spring to give the throttle bodies a stronger return, i'm not sure if the original pedal had a spring built in?



I've fitted a small VW expansion tank on the passenger footwell, this was the ideal shape and price(£11!) also its got a low level output that i've yet got to wire in on the dash.




Lots of work has been done making it easy to remove the dash so everything is on connector blocks allowing it to come off complete. Its been slightly more work than normal as i'm not using the original dash or idiot lights. I did use the GKD bmw loom which is of good quality. Along with the dash i've made a one piece tunnel top and a switch panel for my cars rocket and missile launchers, well not quite but one for the dash as I wanted it isolated, fuel pump, fan override and traction/launch control. I've also got a push button starter, idiot lights are above the savage switch's. The control for the traction/launch control will sit just below. the four buttons for the stack dash are on the right of the scuttle.

A lot of finishing needs to be done on the bodywork, the area under the dash is going to be boxed in, the sides of the switch panel are going to be paneled too with a 12v supply on the passenger side, once their all in position/drilled/welded i'm going to paint them all satin black.




To fit everything in neatly i've had to make a second skin to the dash, thanks to dave for the extra fuse box Its a bit tidier now than in the pic.


Headlights are in position along with front indicators, I've cut the mounting tube and routed the cables inside, the idea along with the one piece tunnel top is just to give it cleaner lines. I've had to send back my rear lights as they were fouling my fuel tank so i'm going for surface mounted numbers and traditional looking lights on the rear cycle wings. The grey cable you can see is some belden for the ABS sensors, the ends of all the connections need sorting out and are just in their rough position.


I've fitted a one piece rear panel too, i'm hoping to get the side panels tig welded to the rear and then the welds ground flush in a caterham style. Still got a bit of work to do where but I need remove the cage to get in properly. One of the wings is mounted just to see what it looks like. I've got hold of some m3 contour style wheels which I love because of the deep dish, I can't afford to keep these and the new OZ wheels so one set will be going up for sale!





The brake M/C are now connected up and in position and with a pressure switch for the full throttle shift on the racelogic



A nice little air horn(£17 off ebay) was fitted as my donor one was dead. Its so loud its unreal!




I've also made the nose cone hinged so it can be tilted forward clear of the radiator without having to remove as a whole.

the scuttle engine side is just about done, I've just got to tidy up some of the cables a little, going to cover them in a bit heat shrink. I've put the engine loom back in the BMW box as it keeps it all together and looks neater(ish). The engine loom has been put on the scuttle too along with the diagnostic port. This was very useful when attempting to get things running right, I had one fault code showing which turned out to be a wiring fault on my part and a simple swap of connectors sorted it.


Currently the car looks like this.....






If all goes to plan I can collect my propshaft this week, then i'll fit that along with the brakes(properly) so I can drive it out of the garage before Christmas. I'll then pop it down to the village garage to check emissions

Looks great!

wow thats awsome!

Nice build - which engine is that - I can't tell one BMW engine from another

Mmmmmm, very nice!

How low does your sump hang below the chassis? It looks almost as bad as mine!

Great looking car, Engine looks huge a real snug fit!

The only word that springs to mind is "SEXUAL!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!"

The car's not big at all in terms of wheel base so its a tight fit in the engine bay

Using the twin pickup sump i've got 95-100mm of ground clearance, I think that's enough!?

The engine/box/LSD is from a e36 m3.

could be wrong as i don't know the set up details, but i'd suspect a lot of cooling issues with that set up once your up and running

The idea behind an header tank is that it is mounted at the highest point in the system, the way you've plumbed yours is the way you'd fit an expansion tank.

I like that a lot!

What a beauty!! Makes me want to complete my build, then sell it so I can get me one of those!!!

That looks very nice. How much power has it got mister?

quote:

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Originally posted by chris mason
could be wrong as i don't know the set up details, but i'd suspect a lot of cooling issues with that set up once your up and running

The idea behind an header tank is that it is mounted at the highest point in the system, the way you've plumbed yours is the way you'd fit an expansion tank.

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quote:

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Originally posted by speedyxjs
Mmmmmm, very nice!

How low does your sump hang below the chassis? It looks almost as bad as mine!

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Wow that looks stunning
I,m sure that,ll be one fun car to drive with the M power

cheers
andy

quote:

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Originally posted by franky

quote:

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Originally posted by chris mason
could be wrong as i don't know the set up details, but i'd suspect a lot of cooling issues with that set up once your up and running

The idea behind an header tank is that it is mounted at the highest point in the system, the way you've plumbed yours is the way you'd fit an expansion tank.

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It is an expansion tank!

the radiator has the header tank built in, the level is high as I had the car running and the coolant has expanded, its now back under the max line. No cooling issues at all.

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Joins onto the blue hose that's connected to the top of the rad.....


Simples

[Edited on 6/12/10 by franky]

Looks awesome, lots of nice touches there, especially with the neatness of the wiring under the dash. Good luck getting the power down in the snow :-)

I see what you mean about the gearknob getting close to the handbrake, it does look closer than mine, which is a bit odd - maybe my gearbox is a bit shorter. I think it'll be OK in practice - handbrake turns in 2nd might be awkward though, but I'm sure you'll cope.

wow, that looks amazing, i so want one

love it, went to look at them as they are so close to me.
But my heart is set on another MNR
something about the bodywork not being grp that just reminded me of GBsc or whatever they are called now.

Great looking build though

quote:

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Originally posted by richardh
love it, went to look at them as they are so close to me.
But my heart is set on another MNR
something about the bodywork not being grp that just reminded me of GBsc or whatever they are called now.

Great looking build though

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excellent mate, what diamiter are the exhaust primaries? they look very small in the pics.but its hard to tell. also what diff are you using? with the large rims and m3 diff do you think the gearing will be ok? this was my concern when using the standarrd 4.1;1 honda diff in mine so i dropped wheel sie down to 13" to lower the gearing a bit!

quote:

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Originally posted by daniel mason
excellent mate, what diamiter are the exhaust primaries? they look very small in the pics.but its hard to tell. also what diff are you using? with the large rims and m3 diff do you think the gearing will be ok? this was my concern when using the standarrd 4.1;1 honda diff in mine so i dropped wheel sie down to 13" to lower the gearing a bit!

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I agree completely. The more you can use from the donor the better. Especially when working to a budget. Although my donor was not cheap I think I'm looking at about £11k to £11.5 k on the road which I don't think is too bad for the power and hopefully reliabilty (25 k donor engine) I could have saved more in certain areas too as I bought an expensive pro alloy race radiator and a set of caterham wheels with new a048's

quote:

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Originally posted by daniel mason
I agree completely. The more you can use from the donor the better. Especially when working to a budget. Although my donor was not cheap I think I'm looking at about £11k to £11.5 k on the road which I don't think is too bad for the power and hopefully reliabilty (25 k donor engine) I could have saved more in certain areas too as I bought an expensive pro alloy race radiator and a set of caterham wheels with new a048's

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Looks great,and I wouldn't worry about the gearing at all,mines probably similarly geared and I can't change gear quick enough in mine with about 100 less bhp than that thing,and it still has the ability to plod under the radar on the tickover in 5th through curtain twitching villages.looks to be a serious weapon that!
Hmmm,time to twiddle the boost.....

looks great but its gonna bite you if your not careful

That is absolutely fantastic.........Superb job. Just shows what can be done

That looks superb mate and I can't believe how you've cracked on with it. Wish I could get on with mine so fast. I seem to spend 70% time researching how stuff works, 20% buying and 10% actual build.

Couple of questions. The red switches on the dash. Where did they come from, they look like CBS and are they IVA proof with the guards?

The rubber grommets are a great touch going through the scuttle, Where from?

What battery are you using?

Cheers

quote:

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Originally posted by Irony
That looks superb mate and I can't believe how you've cracked on with it. Wish I could get on with mine so fast. I seem to spend 70% time researching how stuff works, 20% buying and 10% actual build.

Couple of questions. The red switches on the dash. Where did they come from, they look like CBS and are they IVA proof with the guards?

The rubber grommets are a great touch going through the scuttle, Where from?

What battery are you using?

Cheers

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switch

Heavy Duty 20Amp LED Toggle Switch with Red Flip Cover on eBay (end time 12-Dec-10 20:10:57 GMT)

ubolts for guards

5mm x 80mm U BOLT & PLATE STAINLESS STEEL 316 on eBay (end time 04-Jan-11 13:32:43 GMT)

hope this helps.

A little milestone reached ;D

My propshaft arrived from dunning and fairbank a few days ago.....

Adapter to replace the rubber ring


Today I was brave enough to go into the frozen depths of the garage and fitted it. Once I had double checked all the bolts were tight about 5 times I drove it up through the gears on axle stands Zero strange noises, hardly any vibration(Straight six smoothness!). All leeks/weeps are sorted, handbrake setup and zero brake drag at the rear. It also allowed me to test the speed sensor for the stack dash, it seems to work perfectly off the rear diff flange bolts.







I've now got to make a bracket to hold the sensor in place however it shouldn't be too bad as there's plenty of places to mount a bracket.

The replacement rear lights arrived too, i'm glad that the old ones wouldn't fit(they protruded too far and hit the tank) as the replacements look a lot better, they're led and a little smaller than usual in carbon mounts but keep the original look of a '7'. I've only loosely put one in place. Oh the other rear wing has been fitted too.




Its now sat back on its wheels so I can drive in and out of the garage 100000 times when the snow clears! I'll have to get plenty of fuel in it.

All being well it might be finished next year :

Still A huge list of things to do but it is getting smaller....

Bit more of an update.

Main things done are all lights and ABS sensors wired in properly. Speed sensor bracket sorted, Brake M/C heatshield made and mounted(I covered this in a heat reflective matting).


I had a right faf with the Lambda sensors, I extended the wires then realised that they weren't working, after much head scratching I had pulled a wire out of the heater circuit on both : So yes I am an idiot. Luckily I had some spare and fitted these, readings were then spot on after I cleared the fault codes. I've still not decided where to route the wires, they're cable tied to the cage at the moment.


I've fitted the front cycle wings and the IVA requirement indicators, I think i've got them both level!! I decided to bolt these on instead of using silkaflex as it makes them easy to remove.




With the nosecone I've added a NACA duct that feeds directly to the air filter and made it so that the nose can hinge forward, this makes it so much easier to get in at the front and stops me damaging it moving it about all the time.



On the 'interior' i've mounted my Christmas present which should cover the rear view quite well and changed the rocker switch location and mounted the traction control adjuster. I've also added a 12V socket so i've a charge point and a power point.



This coming monday its having an emissions check at my village garage to see how that side of things are, then sort out the side impact mounting to clear the exhaust.








Today though i've noticed a lumpy idle that i'll have to sort before monday and a fluid leak on the brakes which will need some attention.

Getting there though.

Another little update. I've got the boot floor mounted in and all wires underneath. I decided on a slightly different arrangement for around the filler neck. It just means it can all be removed(everything on rivnuts). Also added a L-shaped bar across the back to give it slightly more ridged.



Headlight bars were cut and re-welded dropping them by a decent amount. I quite like the new look ;D


Side impact bars have been modified so this is the first time they've been on with the exhaust too.




Most obvious thing is that the bonnet is now bent/fitted. Not 100% happy with the fit yet but its looking more complete now.





Things you cant see is a 100% working traction and launch control system. A bracket made to stiffen the steering shaft. The lambda sensor wires now go across the bulkhead, All the intake system is complete and the 'interior' is just about complete. I've also trimmed/fitted all the rear/side panel joins, i'm now happyish with these.

Still lots of little bits to do and some bigger ones too! Looking like a car now too.

looking decent for sure

thats coming along great dying to see how it performs once completed
its going to be a animal when you want it to be i think

Looks great, what traction control is it? Race logic?

quote:

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Originally posted by beaver34
Looks great, what traction control is it? Race logic?

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Well time for a bit of a running report, my plan is to get about 600ish miles on her then sort out a list of 'niggles'.

450+miles done now. High points are:

No breakdowns yet!
30+MPG, upto 35-7mpg on a run.
Great fun to drive, very very stable.
Gearing seems to really suit the car with the amount of power and revs you can use.
Grips like you wouldn't believe in the dry, good in the monsoon rain we've been having but it has let me know who's boss a couple of times
Brakes are great(I fitted mintex m1144 pads in the front).
Ride quality is really good now i've turned it back from how hard I had it set.

Its a little on the quick side, had a couple of 0-60 runs with Peter in the car on a slightly damp road. Came up in 3.7seconds(IIRC). Should be good for a 3.5 once I learn to launch it properly. Also that was pulling off in 1st. Pulling off in second would save a gear change at the expense of abusing my clutch. Real world speed is fantastic, makes for safe overtaking at all speeds. The engine is very very smooth.


My list of niggles stands at this so far........

Slight exhaust blow causing one of the lambda sensors to show an error code, I need to remove and reseat the exhaust to sort this.

Small oil weap from one of my cooler unions, a bit of PTFE tape should help here.

Brakes need another bleed to try and remove a bit of softness at the start of the lever travel.

Seat runner needs to come out as I'd prefer to sit the 15/20mm lower without it.

I get terrible fuel surge below half a tank, I've a spare fuel pump i'm going to fit to see if that helps, I think it should stop till there's about 7ltrs left. I'll use a t piece on feed and return to see. It doesn't help that the m3 evo engine runs at 5bar fuel pressure. Hopefully the extra pump will work as its a cheap solution, failing that a swirl pot set-up might have to be fitted or i'll look at the cost of a sumped+baffled tank. This might work out as the most cost effective solution as I can sell my pumps/tank. Fingers crossed the cheap fix will do.

I'm going to fit the original under headlight indicators back on and bond my cycle wings to the wingstays as even using the bolt on and threadlock method does not seem to work very well.

The last and most strange observation is my running temps....... unless 'going for it' the car seems to run a little cool, water temps at about 78 deg on the open road, i've a 75mm core radiator fitted which might be causing this.
I've a few other ideas though.... I take the water temp from a hose that comes off the water pump to the radiator. This will be about 5deg cooler than the actual engine temp so it may be perfect. Also the fact when I'm making progress it gets a little warmer might been again that its running spot on. I'm going to measure the engine temp/rad temp/hose temp to compare what they all say.

Feels strange to have it on the road and not to be 'building it' anymore :

well done. as for the water temp it will show quite a bit lower in the rad circuit. really you should be taking it off the head or at least the thermostat housing before the thermostat. where you have it now is the coolest part of the system.

next time your down south you will have to stop by and come out for a run with the skcc lot. most of us are within 15-20min drive from gkd.

quote:

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Originally posted by ashg
well done. as for the water temp it will show quite a bit lower in the rad circuit. really you should be taking it off the head or at least the thermostat housing before the thermostat. where you have it now is the coolest part of the system.

next time your down south you will have to stop by and come out for a run with the skcc lot. most of us are within 15-20min drive from gkd.

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Agree you need to put your temp sensor on the engine rather than in the hose if you want accurate readings.

Not sure what you mean about the fuel pump. Are you planning to use 2? Fuel starvation is caused by surge of fuel in the tank meaning that the pick-up isn't submerged. Only a baffled or sumped tank (or a swerl pot set-up) will help unless the pick-up is very badly placed (where moving it might help). Is your pump below/level with your pick-up? They don't like sucking and prefer to be gravity fed. If not they can cavitate the fuel causing air bubbles in the line which can feel similar to starvation.

quote:

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Originally posted by adithorp
Agree you need to put your temp sensor on the engine rather than in the hose if you want accurate readings.

Not sure what you mean about the fuel pump. Are you planning to use 2? Fuel starvation is caused by surge of fuel in the tank meaning that the pick-up isn't submerged. Only a baffled or sumped tank (or a swerl pot set-up) will help unless the pick-up is very badly placed (where moving it might help). Is your pump below/level with your pick-up? They don't like sucking and prefer to be gravity fed. If not they can cavitate the fuel causing air bubbles in the line which can feel similar to starvation.

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Ahh! That should improve things then.

One problem you might have is the pumps don't like being run dry (but it should only be briefly dry) and they might not last long. I'd be looking at a tank with a sump as a long term solution.

My new one picks up from the bottom of the 1/2lt sump and the return goes back into the sump. I get no starvation even when on hairpin bends running almost empty. The tank itself isn't baffled, though I would have spec'ed it that way if it'd been made to measure (I bought second hand), just the sump entry has a big lip and although the sensor varies wildly in corners indicating fuel surge, the pick-up isn't effected.

quote:

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Originally posted by adithorp
Ahh! That should improve things then.

One problem you might have is the pumps don't like being run dry (but it should only be briefly dry) and they might not last long. I'd be looking at a tank with a sump as a long term solution.

My new one picks up from the bottom of the 1/2lt sump and the return goes back into the sump. I get no starvation even when on hairpin bends running almost empty. The tank itself isn't baffled, though I would have spec'ed it that way if it'd been made to measure (I bought second hand), just the sump entry has a big lip and although the sensor varies wildly in corners indicating fuel surge, the pick-up isn't effected.

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