Have you any idea how far away from the aerial the transponder can be and still work?
I fancy one too!
Cheers
This unit was posted on L7club board.
It looks like a nice unit to use to secure a 7. The transponder only has to be near unit aerial to disarm it.
Aerial can be placed anywhere in car.
I was thinking of one of these and connect the two relays to fuel and ECU.
http://www.microscanalarms.co.uk/pages/mi600_immobiliser.htm
There awas brief mention of this on another thread recently, I'll see if i can find it..
Ned.
see lower half of this thread..
http://www.locostbuilders.co.uk/viewthread.php?tid=17035
[Edited on 14/9/04 by ned]
I've ordered one of the Microscan units from the company below. They are £10 less than manufacturers.
http://www.dyor.co.uk/speed_trap_detectors.asp
[Edited on 14/9/04 by Rob Lane]
I have a TOAD version of this protecting the fuel pump and starter motor.
Ben
for anyone interested you can buy the mi600 device from directcarparts
http://www.dcp-shop.co.uk/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=74_80&products_id=820 for £56.99 with free delivery (I ordered some bits previously and
they arrived in 2-3 days)
Ned.
Works out at same cost from Internet Trading Direct with overnight delivery.
I think they all work out about same price except an odd one or two suppliers.
To be honest, unless you have fuel injection system, bypassing an imobiliser on a typical locost would be laughably easy. Really only usefull for insurance and SVA purposes!
Mines not so easy. It is injection and ECU based so there are quite a few options open to me.
I'll certainly be disguising the wiring etc.
At the moment mine has no security at all, just jump in, flick ignition switch and hit starter button.
I worry all the time when it's left, even to pop into a shop.
The transponders in the kit allow you to just put it in car near to concealed aerial and car will then have live ignition and be able to start.
Transponder is like one of those capsules for a dog collar that contains address etc. very small.
i was thinking f making an imobaliser. is this acceptable for insurance?
Rob,
Have you any idea how far away from the aerial the transponder can be and still work?
I fancy one too!
Cheers
I am going to put a key operated fuel line switch of the mechanical sort in the tunnel. This way there is no fuel, only whats in the carb. Our Local
diesel injector place does them. Only ptoblem is you need the key on a long chain, so you can have key in ignition, and key in fuel switch. Although I
think you might be able to remove the key in locked and unlocked position. This way they cant get at the switch, and bypass it, as its physical and
secures inside the tunnel. You would need to run a new fuel pipe from back to front of the vehicle to bypass it.
Thats more that the average crim / joyrider will want to do. It wont stop the professional with his Lo-Loader etc.
GeoffW
Graham,
it will work up to 6 inches away from aerial according to instructions. Normally they say fit the aerial loop around ignition switch so that the
transponder on keyring activates it. It can be fitted anywhere up to 1.5m around car.
Bin,
I doubt if they would accept it. I bought this one because it came with a Thatcham certificate which my insurance will accept.
Geoff,
Don't wish to burst your bubble but any of the aftermarket keyswitches will operate with a universal key in them.
By that I mean 'screwdriver'
Years ago I disabled an Audi car with a 'reed' switch glued inside a door panel and connected to vital circuit on ECU.
By leaving a small magnet in car I was able to take magnet and place it alongside reed switch, this activated it and operated car.
Removing magnet killed circuit.
It wasn't an obvious method and no-one knew of it. It was very easy to do.
I used magnet from a burglar alarm door contact, they are small and quite powerful.
In a Locost the reed switch could activate fuel relay from side within tunnel. The magnet could be kept on floor cross rail and just moved across to
tunnel side to activate. It could even be used on low current ignition side.
if using a lock for anything i try and get a bramer (not sure how you spell it but i think there might be an "h" in it) lock, that is the sort with cylindrical key used on good bike locks. they are VERY hard to pick. (or at least they used to. hope someone hasen't found a way round them) but the universal key doesent work on them
quote:
Originally posted by binraker
if using a lock for anything i try and get a bramer (not sure how you spell it but i think there might be an "h" in it) lock, that is the sort with cylindrical key used on good bike locks. they are VERY hard to pick. (or at least they used to. hope someone hasen't found a way round them) but the universal key doesent work on them
Wow that's got to be the simplest.
Slightly off, but has anyone seen the new sockets in Halfords?
Specially made to remove wheel locknuts !!!
How absurd is that 
quote:
Originally posted by Rob Lane
Wow that's got to be the simplest.
Slightly off, but has anyone seen the new sockets in Halfords?
Specially made to remove wheel locknuts !!!
How absurd is that
any one done thins themselves? if sow how many pins are ther in your lock. my big ass d-lock has 8 but the good ones have up to 32 and youd need one big ass pen to open that
quote:
Originally posted by binraker
any one done thins themselves? if sow how many pins are ther in your lock. my big ass d-lock has 8 but the good ones have up to 32 and youd need one big ass pen to open that
I think that if any low life wanted a particular car they would take it regardless of security measures. I would suggest the real essence of the
security measures we are trying to take has to be in increasing the time taken to get the car running. In the past i have concluded that hidden
switches may be the order of the day as they need to be found first.
I had a mate who fitted a good old fashioned switch on the dash, only this was also connected in series to a hidden switch behind the headliner of his
saloon. Both had to be engaged to activate the fuel pump relay.
Of course locost's dont lend themselves easily to hiding anything, but two switches in series will make it a bit more of a challenge, one of them
could be a touch on immobiliser type (toad laserkey etc) located out of sight
Darren.
quote:
Eventualy found the key in one of the other wheels still in the wheel nut! (behind a cover). Had been there since I changed the tyres about 3000 miles before.
The immobiliser unit has arrived and it looks a nice piece of kit.
I'm now deciding which way to have it operate on the ignition/ start sequence.
I'm changinmg the dash for a carbon fibre item and I will probably be changing the layout slightly for the switches.