Fitting a new kitchen sink this weekend - oh joy! Just need some clarifiction that the way I think I need to stop the water to the hot tap is correct.

Plan is:
1) Fill kettle so I can still have a brew.
2) Turn off cold water at stop cock under sink
2b)Turn off boiler just incase!
3) Turn off the stop cock in the airing cupboard that is on the pipe between the cold water tank in the loft and the hot water tank in the cupboard.
4)Turn on hot taps to empty hot tank
5)When taps stop - hot water tank should be empty at this stage.
6)Replace tape and sink
7)Turn on cold water
8)Turn on stop cock in airing cupboard till tank refills
9)Turn on boiler again
10) Test
11)Wallow in family glory.

Missed anything? Or done too much?
Thanks!

[Edited on 12/10/09 by Colnago_Man]

personally i'd just turn off the isolator to the tap, most modern kitchens have them

quote:

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Originally posted by nib1980
personally i'd just turn off the isolator to the tap, most modern kitchens have them

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As soon as the isolators are in and closed you can turn everything back on, you only need the inlet side piped up, then work backwards from the taps, to the valves.

Also the find leak, switch supply off, fix leak, loop is easier.....

[Edited on 12/10/09 by r1_pete]

[Edited on 12/10/09 by r1_pete]

Freeze it using one of THESE and then whack an isolator on and finish the job. As long as you can get the isolator on in less than half an hour (easy!!) then it should make the job a whole load easier.

That's what I'd do anyway, £8 odd to save messing around!

Yup. I'd also suggest a quick freeze, chop and pop on some isolating valves. Then you can make cups of tea, go to the loo etc etc with impunity...

If you are fitting an isolator to a kitchen hot tap, make it a full-bore lever type or don't bother. Screwdriver slot isolators have a shorter life span in terms of leaking from the screw than the washer on the tap!! They also restrict the flow of water from a vented cylinder.

Incidentally, in the OP description, the hot water cylinder will not be empty at any point...AND be very gentle turning the gatevalve (if it's a stopcock it's wrong) off between the tank and cylinder. They strip out when opening if they are done up too tight and that will then involve removing it and replacing it while you stop the flow with a cork or somesuch in the tank connector.

Yep! freeze the pipes, just have everything ready to go. If you are doing the hot supply make sure the water in the pipe is cold, it will freeze warm water but doesn't last as long and you need more refrigerant.

Well you learn something ever day! Freezing kit it is!

Many thanks for the advice, spot on as always.

wouldnt dream of freezing it myself. Just turn the immersion heater/boiler off, have a bath to use the hot water, and run the lot out. Only take 15 mins whilst you have a brew, then pipe up in your own time with no worrying about bloody frozen plugs melting - what if you find a leak and need to refreeze it? Also when draining, open upstairs taps to let air in, or you will get soaked when someone flushes the toilet as you work.

Agree with all the steps but note----
When you turn off the cold feed to the cylinder you will not be able to drain the hot water out. Why bothe anyway??. Just drain the water in the pipe to the hot side of the sink supply.There will be a small amount of water in this pipe which you can mop up.Isolators on the hot supply to the sink are not usually fitted,how many times do you fit new sinks or taps???.

my plumbing tip .... push fit fittings .... the speedfit ones are the dogs blocks

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Originally posted by JoelP
wouldnt dream of freezing it myself. Just turn the immersion heater/boiler off, have a bath to use the hot water, and run the lot out. Only take 15 mins whilst you have a brew, then pipe up in your own time with no worrying about bloody frozen plugs melting - what if you find a leak and need to refreeze it? Also when draining, open upstairs taps to let air in, or you will get soaked when someone flushes the toilet as you work.

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