I am still having issues getting my Pinto to run properly..



I managed to get it going about 3 weeks ago..

But this morning I tried and all I can do is get it to fire a few times and then give up..

Only a couple of cylinders are getting warm...

I have now fitted a new fuel regulator, new coil, new HT leads, new plugs.. Checked the valve cleareneces, double checked that I have the HT leads in the right order..

What else could it be?

If I take the plugs out they are sopping wet with fuel... So it looks like the fuel is getting sucked in and not burned..

Cant work out if the carb is FUBARd... fudging in more fuel than the thing can cope with, and thus flooding it... or something else is amiss...

I am getting fed up with this thing now.. I tought Pintos were suposed to be simple!

are you sure the timing is correct? when I started my zetec I could get it running lumpy on 2 cylinders and couldnt for the life figure out why, double checked the cam/ crank timing that was spot on. My problem was the wiring loom that has come with the second hand ECU someone had wired the coil pack wires incorrectly leading the coild to fire out of sequence. This would be no different than have ing your timing out 180 degrees . Have you checked your plug leads for the firing sequence?? if so set your timing up to TDC and check where the rotor arm id pointing this should be to no1 plug lead on the distributor cap. I think the firing order is 1,3,4,2

Sorry if you've checked all and im teaching u to suck eggs. But its sometimes the easiest things we overlook.

is it a manuel choke? and what carbs?

Its just odd that the car was running more or less properly a few months ago... it just seems to have gradually gone down hill...

I managed to get 1 and 4 to fire yesterday... and now 3 and 4 today... I just take the plugs out, clean the fuel off and give it another go....

Im using the standard ford electronic ignition system..

When I fitted the new coil I do notice that the black wire to the coil will only fit on the +ve terminal.. and the green wire that goes to the control unit goes to the -ve terminal... im not sure if that is right,... but logic suggests that the black wire should be -Ve.. would that make any difference?

When I did the valve timing I got cyl #1 to TDC and marked the dizzy so I knew I had them on right...

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Originally posted by boggle
is it a manuel choke? and what carbs?

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and do you have a mechanical pump or electric pump??

i would poss remove plugs and check each for a good spark, then crank over for a few seconds to clear the bores....

next heat the plugs with a blow torch and re insert.......open the choke and try again with the throttle wide open, then shut......

Its the standard mechanical fuel pump with an aftermarket pressure regulator with guage...

Its reading 1.5PSI

I tried that this morning, all the plugs out, blow torch to dry them off, spin the engine over and left to dry out for a bit...

Then tried to start again... still two of them wouldnt work (different two from before)..

I will try again this evening... its just weird how quickly the bores seem to fill with unburned fuel....

i would have thought the regulator would need to be 1.3bar atmospheric, and imho i wouldnt run a regulator on a carb set up with mechanical pump, but im sure there is a reason for this that i am missing?

where the plugs black when removed???

sounds like ignition timing to me. you are obviously getting fuel so it must be spark.

are you sure the timing isn't 180 deg out?

to set the static timing you need to make sure that the engine is at tdc on the compression stroke on no.1 cylinder. then move the crank to the appropriate amount of advance against the timing mark on the crank pulley. insert the dizzy so that the timing mark and the rotor arm are together.

then making sure that the leads are on in the correct order fit the dizzy cap.

Pintos are very tolerant of being out a few degrees on the timing so if it's anywhere near it should start.

If it still won't go then look at cam timing.

Cheers

Mark

I assume compression stroke can be detected by looking at the rockers... if the piston is at the top, and both valves are closed... then thats compression stroke?

How does one go about verifying valve timing?

Its just really weird that the engine was running reasonably OK a few months ago... and now it just seems to flood..


The last time I ran it, I had to keep the throttle open for about 30 seconds for the excess fuel to burn out with some impressive backfiring.. and then it was ok for a short drive.... and then it went all lumpy again

No brainer firing order most likely you need to swap HT lead 2 with lead 3

I have seen the floats come away from their soldered bars and allow raw fuel to overflow into the neck of the carbs before.
An easy check if you take the filter off and look in you will see and smell it.
If this is the case then you'll need to do an oil and filter change as well as the oil will have become diluted by the fuel.

Sounds like you carb needs rebuilding to me if you have been having flooding problems for some time and you are now saying that you are suprised at how quickly your bores are filling with fuel.

Floats stuck wide open!?

I would also lose the pressure reg as it is not required on a standard Pinto set up and the 32/36 Weber has a fuel return line anyway.

You could first double check your HT leads are in correct order, all your plugs are sparking, I've had new ones that did not spark, then static time the engine if it still doesn't start move the HT leads on the dissy 180 deg.

But I would go with my first suggestion.

Po79.

Carb is the next step to eliminate sounds like it needs a strip down clean out checking for wear and rebuilding if poss sounds like its flooding

if not i have a brand new 32/36 dgav carb that i may be selling soon

ps you don't even need a pressure regulator on bike carbs if useing the standard pump i have been running this set up with my bike carbs with no problems

[Edited on 12/6/2009 by DRC INDY 7]

Hi
I worked on these engines for many years
and the 1.6 was renowned for the timing pulley jumping a tooth or two if revved quite hard this used to give the same symptoms as you have said.
hope this helps

Gary

Why would the timing pulley jump

A its held on with a bolt
B it has a key way and woodruff key

quote:

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Originally posted by DRC INDY 7
Why would the timing pulley jump

A its held on with a bolt
B it has a key way and woodruff key

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What distibutor are you using? have you checked the distributor cap and rotor arm.? Does the shaft have any play ? Are you sure that the leads are on in the correct order as already suggested? Are the compression OK ? A burnt/ sticking valve would cause rough running. Worth rechecking the valve timing as well

Most of the parts are new...

Dizzy arm and cap, cables etc. The carb looks spotless inside and almost brand new on the outside.

I think I need to check the valve timing and then clean everything up and give it another going over...

Is there an idiots guide somewhere that explains how to get it setup properly?

I did check this evening that the TDC mark on the crank pulley and the timing dot/needle on the camshaft pulley alighn at the right time, and they seem to... So im not so sure on that one

Looks like the crank to cam timming is correct

I would still go for low compression/weak spark when under load ie spark plug fitted

or the carb is dumping to much fuel in just a pity you do not live closer i would have sorted it out for you

quote:

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Originally posted by DRC INDY 7
Looks like the crank to cam timming is correct

I would still go for low compression/weak spark when under load ie spark plug fitted

or the carb is dumping to much fuel in just a pity you do not live closer i would have sorted it out for you

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