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Sticking steel together
tegwin - 2/12/11 at 06:12 PM

I am in the process of building a little sterling engine for my old mans Christmas present... Machining the parts is causing me grief, but I will get there eventually..


One issue I have.... The crank of the engine is 8mm silver steel rod. I need to attach a 2mm thick steel plate at one end to take the end of the conrod.

These parts are might small so i cant really MIG them....

In a basic workshop with no access to oxyascethylene (SP?) how can I join them together to give a strong result?


I did try soft solder, but that was a silly idea......

Parts are a bit like this:



[Edited on 2/12/11 by tegwin]


HowardB - 2/12/11 at 06:22 PM

brazing is the best thing, if not silver solder them,...

hthBrazing


Wadders - 2/12/11 at 06:23 PM

Silver Solder would probably do it.

Al


Originally posted by tegwin
I am in the process of building a little sterling engine for my old mans Christmas present... Machining the parts is causing me grief, but I will get there eventually..


One issue I have.... The crank of the engine is 8mm silver steel rod. I need to attach a 2mm thick steel plate at one end to take the end of the conrod.

These parts are might small so i cant really MIG them....

In a basic workshop with no access to oxyascethylene (SP?) how can I join them together to give a strong result?


I did try soft solder, but that was a silly idea......

Parts are a bit like this:



[Edited on 2/12/11 by tegwin]



tegwin - 2/12/11 at 06:26 PM

Was thinking silver solder/braze.. but what sort of heat source am I going to need?


owelly - 2/12/11 at 06:31 PM

Silver soldering (or hard soldering) likes to be up around 450*C. You could do it with one of those butane pen torchy things if the parts are small enough to get hot.


r1_pete - 2/12/11 at 06:32 PM

Can you get a good interference fit, and use a dab of loctite?


SteveWalker - 2/12/11 at 06:46 PM

quote:
Originally posted by r1_pete
Can you get a good interference fit, and use a dab of loctite?

It doesn't need to be an interference fit for loctite, just a good one - the wheels of the 5" gauge loco I built with my dad twenty-odd years ago are loctited to the axles.

Alternatively, make it an interference fit, freeze the rod and bake the plate and then assemble quickly.


David Jenkins - 2/12/11 at 06:49 PM

Loctite 610 (I think) will fix something like that - and you'll only get it apart with a blow-torch!

I used it to fix the wheels on my 5" gauge steam loco...

An alternative would be to make a thread on the end of the rods, a matching thread in the flat bit, THEN use threadlock to hold it together.

Ha! Snap!

In fact, you don't want too good a fit for Loctite - it needs a thou or so to work. Make it too tight and you just push the Loctite out of the joint.

[Edited on 2/12/11 by David Jenkins]


fazerruss - 2/12/11 at 07:23 PM

Drill the hole slightly undersize, then put a slight taper on the shaft then warm up that end with a blow torch.
Knock the shaft in with a hammer leaving a mm or so stuck out then turn over and tap the tapered end to a mushroom like riveting a steam boiler to lock it in.
will never shift then.

Russ


MakeEverything - 2/12/11 at 08:16 PM

I would make the hole an interference fit, press the shaft in and peen the plate to squeeze the rod in place.


paulf - 2/12/11 at 10:58 PM

I would silver solder it, you will manage with a diy type blow lamp with butane propane mix gas.The other way I would do it if not able to solder it would be to turn the end of the shaft down to 6mm cut a thread on it and tap the plate then assemble with loctite , a plain shaft and hole would probably work but I prefer to use a thread just to be certain that it never comes apart.


tegwin - 2/12/11 at 11:51 PM

What exactly do you mean by silver solder? I have standard plumbers solder... I can also get hold of fluxxed brazing rods. But I can nto find silver solder in any of the usual places.. (machine mart, tool station, screwfix)


owelly - 3/12/11 at 01:16 AM

http://www.thewelderswarehouse.com/Welding/Flux_Coated_55__Silver_Solder.html

Most welding suppliers should have it.


iank - 3/12/11 at 08:50 AM

Cromwell also do it, but more expensive than the welders warehouse.
http://www.cromwell.co.uk/quicksearch?search=silver+solder&x=0&y=0


designer - 3/12/11 at 09:22 AM

Braze or silver solder, that's what I do on my live steam stuff.


MikeRJ - 3/12/11 at 09:37 AM

SILVER SOLDER RODS X 5 SILVERFLO 55 | eBay


David Jenkins - 3/12/11 at 11:32 AM

Trouble with silver solder is you need the special flux, which adds to the cost.

I'd consider brazing, especially if you can get the fluxed rods.


tegwin - 3/12/11 at 03:14 PM

Popped to the local welding place and machine mart this morning.

Picked up a nice small focused gas torch, some flux and a silver solder rod (£8!!!!) Gave it a go, hard to keep it looking tidy, but seems plenty strong enough :-)

Need to mail order some more silver solder rods from somewhere cheaper, but for the time being... I am getting there :-)

Thanks all


iank - 3/12/11 at 04:10 PM

quote:
Originally posted by tegwin
Popped to the local welding place and machine mart this morning.

Picked up a nice small focused gas torch, some flux and a silver solder rod (£8!!!!) Gave it a go, hard to keep it looking tidy, but seems plenty strong enough :-)

Need to mail order some more silver solder rods from somewhere cheaper, but for the time being... I am getting there :-)

Thanks all


The rods are expensive because they are around 40-50% silver.