I'm currently doing a practice weekend at Loton Park Hillclimb, but I'm having serious trouble with my car!

It's running a 1300gt crossflow but when I increase throttle (not just off the start line but all the time) the engine just coughs and splutters and there's no power. As a result I've been able to do no serious practice runs.

We've been through all the possible permuations that I and other racers can think of to try and solve the problem:

Taken the carb apart to check float chamber etc - looks perfect, and there is plenty fuel being squirted into carb.

Taken off facet fuel pump to check for blockages but the fuel seems to be running fine.

Bought and fitted a new coil, as the old one seemed to be over heating, although the new one is getting just as hot.

Bought and fitted new leads, but they have not solved the problem.

The inlet manifold seems to be getting very hot and maybe atomising the fuel??

Or maybe it could be the lumination ignition system??

Could it be my distributer - but we've checked the spark plugs and they are sparking fine and look good, there is also compression but not sure how good it is.

If there's any one out there who could be of great help to me and come up with some other possible solutions I'd be sooooo greatful, as I have another day tomorrow and don't want to waste my time and money to such a level again! (although thats motorsport for u!)

Thanks,
Oli

siezed bob weights in distributor causing retarded ignition timing at any speeds above idle?? would cause a lot of your symptons. Rusty

Cheers Rusty,

That sounds feasible as it does run at idle (just!) but nothing above.

Would that mean a new distributor being needed?

Cheers,
Oli

there was a thread on this just a few days ago, funnily enough. Before buying a new distributor you may as well have the old one apart to check that thats the prob and try freeing it up.

try using wd 40 on weights under base plate , may free off also coil should not be getting hot . Are you using correct coil?? using a ballast resistor coil without the correct resistor may cause the coil to run hot and also burn out condensors. Rusty

Thanks Joel and Rusty,

I'll be on the case at 8 in the morning at Loton.

!st thing is to take dizzy apart and give the wd40 some beans!

Do you have the name and part number for the correct coil for the job? What price am i looking at?

Cheers,
Oli

Before reading about the bob weights i thought perhaps timing was a problem, so i agree there could be a problem there although a lot of race engines run with no advance at all by lock wiring the weights.

You might want to check the timing. If your not sure about it or how to check it just start the engine and loosen the dizzy pinch bolt and gently rotate it a few degrees either way, if this is the problem you should very quickly find a point where even at idle it sounds like its running better.

What do the plugs look like? Do they look very dry, or wet?

If you want give me a call in the morning on 07770 405688 and i'll happily run through a few possibilities with you. Does the engine want to restart when hot?

Kind regards,
Darren

Can't really offer any help but using my problem solving skills....

Has the car run previously to this weekend?

Did it have any problems before?

Has any work been carried out since it last ran?

Is new fuel being used?

Is the coil on its side or vertical (i've heard xflow ones should be kept vertical - not sure how true it is).

errm ..... out of ideas now....

Thanks Darren,

I'll give it a go at checking the timing tomorrow.

The plugs are dry, and the engine doesn't want to start when its hot most of the time. What are your thoughts on this?

I'll most probably give u a call to check a few things.

Kind regards,
Oli

Mike,

the car has been run a few times prior (and raced by the previous owner).

no work carried out since last time.

i am now using normal unleaded as opposed to shell optimax but was assured this would have no impact!

the coil is vertical.

Regards,
Oli

Hi,

(Not sure on the carb your using, so this
could be bo***cks.)

For an engine to pick up cleanly it needs
a momentary richening of the fuel / air mix
This is usually achieved by an accelerator
pump, a rubber diaphram within the carb
leading to a U shaped tube in the air inlet
This tube should squirt fuel as the throttle
is depressed. If it dosn't replace diaphram.

Also check inlet gaskets. Air being sucked
in plays havoc with the mixture.

Hope this helps. If it dosn't feel free to
call me a .........


Paul G

(1) Clean main jets
(2) Check accelerator pump squirts
(3) Lightly lubricate distributer weights -- use 20w/50 just a tiny ammount.


If that dosent work check valve clearances.

Thanks 2 everyone who's helped out with their comments.

I've been at Loton today and not resolved the problem! Left early as I was gettin too stressed. Gutted as there goes all my practice b4 the season!

I tried phoning darren but no joy, but you may be getting another call in the future as something else is bound to f##k up on my car! Cheers for your ideas though.

I'm gonna take it to a local garage in Shrewsbury and get it looked at properly and set up on rolling road - doin this as only 2 weeks till 1st comp, and will probs make the engine kick out a few more horses! I've made a list of everyones comments to see what they say.

Regards,
Oli

Off track from everyone else's replies, but our old xflow used to be a bit like this and the problem turned out to be too *much* fuel. When we had it rolling roaded the guy had to fit larger air jets. Could be worth a check.