Next step in the Duratec in install is to make the engine mounts.
I obviously want to make sure they are strong enough to withstand the torque etc.
My current intension is to use the existing holes in the chassis (the one on the left in the pic) and use the landrover rubber mounts I had on the
pinto.
This will mean the mounts are at approx a 10deg angle towards the back of the car.
Engine test fitting 11
Do we think this would be a problem? The plate on the rubber mount would be 5mm thick and the tube will be 3mm wall 32mm OD.
Up to the challenge?
David 
That will be no problem at all, as the mounta already is at an upward angle from the chassis mount.
I would have thought youd be putting alot of force through the welds, mabye some additional bracing would be required?
Could you not just move the chasis plates back so the mounts are vertical?
Shouldnt be a problem at all, here is photo of one of my mounts with very similar angle
looks ok to me
Will be fine, just no more mounts made out of 16g box.
Don't see any reason why a slant would be a problem.
Here is a mount I made for a Zetec using the Landy rubbers:-
O/S Engine Mount
2 options as far as I can see.
a) weld on a plate to the left of the one shown
b) remove place and refit so it is cetral with centre of engine mount.
there seems to be good access for eitehr of the above and the additional work can't be more than a couple of hours?
You are only going to do this once so why not get it spot on?
Made the mounts today, amongst other things.
Thanks for the advice
Drivers side:
Engine mounts 1
Passenger side:
Engine mounts 2
And the engine is finally suporting its own weight 
how are you getting access to the top engine rubber stud to fit the nut?
quote:
Originally posted by 02GF74
how are you getting access to the top engine rubber stud to fit the nut?
20p to Benzine, collect at Stoneleigh 
Captive nut, welded to the plate inside.
quote:
Originally posted by flak monkey
20p to Benzine, collect at Stoneleigh
Captive nut, welded to the plate inside.
I made these coupled with a Caterham rubber mount.
Rescued attachment 001.JPG
I recently made something similar to this for my Tiger Avon Pinto. I cut the tops of the connecting tube to allow access to the nuts. But I use a completely different rubber insulator which is failsafe and has snubbing upwards - the landrover bobbin mounts really are 1960 technology. Mounting them horizontally gives the lowest stiffness (shear) fore-aft and laterally where you need it most and the highest stiffness vertically where you need it least! Mounting them at an angle (like early BMWs) is better but not easy hence I use a mount with a conical construction. Call me if you want any more advice John 01536 202789
I am really only worried about this after breaking the pinto mounts last summer duing some 'spirited' driving.
I made some almost identical to those I have just made for the duratec, and they were fine the rest of the year until the engine came out.
The landrover mounts, although old fashioned, do seem to work quite well as they are incredibly stiff.
However as I am now doubling the power and torque its making me think again.
My gut feeling is that each of the mounts I have made would lift the car several times over....
I have seen lots of people do folded plate type mounts. Which obviously look good.
The caterham style mounts always looked a bit weak, they are generally only 1.6mm tubing IIRC. Which is exactly what I broke with the pinto.... 
That said they obviously work though.
i have ordered one of the kits you see on ebay that you weld together yourself. I was going to retain the landy mounts on mine too but choose to try others as the size of them is huge and i would of liked them to be at an angle with the engine rather than horizontal.....