Use the search button it's been covered many, many times before.
hi again,
can some of you experts out there give me pro's and con's in using a bike or car engine in my biuld????
which is an easier build etc. and prices of engines looking at 2l zetec dont know much about bike engine, any recomendations??? nice to here from you
all thanks steve.
Ha Ha Ha !
Here we go again
Use the search button it's been covered many, many times before.
Checks calendar, no not April 1st!
There goes the evening, and maybe all of next week.
Loads of price differences in car and bike engines. I am using a Honda CBR1000f engine/box. Weighs 98Kg, 135-145BHP standard but the best bit is 104Nm of torque, ideal for a kit car. Bike cost £350 and is still taxed and tested till April next year. Sold the wheels, brakes, seat etc that I didn't need and got most of my money back. There are some very expensive engines out there just depends how deep your pockets are.
Hello,
Things are quite easy :
you want a car , go for car engine
if you want a sport car, go for bike engine
Gerardo
There's a million opinions about this subject, and they'll all be stated on this thread sooner or later - favourite 'discussion'
on this forum 
My views, however:
BEC Pro's:
Lighter (therefore faster)
6 sp sequential 'box built in
Easy to install (hand lift the unit in - don't need engine crane etc)
Generally more powerful out of the box than most car engines
screaming revs 
Cheap performance compared to what you'd need to spend on a car engine to get the same
Throw another unit in if anything ever goes wrong
BEC Con's:
No reverse gear, so need to fit something for IVA
High revs when cruising at speed (more a diff gearing thing really)
Emissions can be a PITA for IVA puposes (though plenty of people have done it so always a few tricks to be shared!)
CEC Pro's:
Torque!
Reverse Gear built into the gearbox
Plenty of tuning options available for most engines
Probably easier to drive at first than a BEC
Parts are maybe a little cheaper
CEC Con's:
Heavy (therefore slower)
Comparatively expensive to get the same performance as a bike engine
Need engine crane to install
Need engine crane to remove if anything goe's wrong
It really depends on what you want to use your car for and what it will be - my Indy and my upcoming midget are generally built for trackdays, with
the odd tour thrown in there too. So, I went for the bike engine option as it suited my purposes best (and I really like the screaming revs/paddle
shift/sequential 'box thing).
There's plenty cases for both options, so you need to think about what you want from the car and maybe sample examples of both engine types
before making a decision.
And, after what I think is a fairly pragmatic post - get a bike engine, you won't regret it. Car engines are slow and rubbish 
I'll bite:
CEC
There that's out of the way.
It is a personal choice, buy yourself!
just ask yourself a few simple questions.
1) Do you want to race it, as in serious track days, sprints etc. Or do you want to drive it on outings and generally turn heads even enjoy fast blat
days, sometimes?
2) How good is your hearing now/age etc. i.e how much noise at high levels can you take.
3) Would you be going for a Age related, Q or New registration?
4) How good is your driving, seriously?
5) How good is your engineering skills and how easy do you want it on the road?
There are no correct answers just down to personal taste.
For example and being honest here of myself my answers were
1) my answer enjoy driving it on outings see also question 4.
2) I am loosing top end frequencies, was told is normal when start to reach 50 plus, but would like to keep what I have
3) Age related, you never know I may fancy a private plate sometime and new plates needs a cat and may need some emission controls.
4) I am an average driver, never been a boy racer, Moggi Minors and Austin 1100 were never that fast in my youth, buy the time I got the chance for
fast cars such as Jag's lost the need for speed and wanted comfort.
5) Reasonable, have lathe/milling/some cnc capabilities but wanted a relative easy book build, less time and hopefully less cash speant.
So for me car engine, doing 70 at 3,000 rpm not 5 to 6,000 rpm
It is easier/cheeper to keep the exhaust note quieter the less revs, going off a few on here, db killers or wadding or what ever is rammed up the
exhaust to keep the noise down for IVA kills the top end performance on bike engines and generally gets taken out after IVA equals very loud, or spend
decent money.
Generally cheaper to stick with donor options until after IVA enjoy your driving the see what you want to do.
If you want serious racing, there are more things needed then in the Haynes book so start to research them before your build gets to far started,
bulkheads or fire walls with no gaps. hoops or steel tunnels around the prop, type of roll bar/cage you will need, exhaust type may now need to be CAT
fitted?
Just a few thoughts, as said all personal reasons that need honest answers or you will be swapping and changing as the build continues.
Adrian
2litre zetec is a good choice if you are going CEC. Lots of experience, lots of upgrade routes, lots of off the shelf parts. Reliable, sturdy,
solid, able to reverse.
Bike engines are Marmite.
Very light (100-150kg lighter in total, once gearbox, battery, alternator, are taken into account)
Work surprisingly well (litre bikes have plenty of torque, but need driving differently to cars)
But these engines are a hi-tech wonderland and in many ways a bit mad (14krpm red line!).
Best options are the most popular variants, 2004 R1, zx10r, zx12 or hayabusa (all best bought from malc), going for rarer (cheaper) engines, is a
false economy unless you enjoy the journey.
CEC is generally cheaper than BEC
Have a ride in a BEC before you commit, they are mental.
In my opinion:
If you want a practical car, then don't build one
If you want an amazing/crazy car, then BEC (maybe turbo BEC) is one way to do it.
Matt
I like Bike Engines and Marmite
<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<&l
t;<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<
Go for a powerful lightweight car engine like the 2.0 ltr Duratec.
Plenty of tuning options
Weighs around 100kg
Can get 200hp with throttle bodies
But like the Bike engine not the cheapest route
Ah , but I like Car engines and Marmite 
dont build, buy one....... mine
My Rover doesn't want to play at the moment even after fitting a new starter motor so right now I'd say any engine that works would be
fine.
Why do you ask?
For sport? You have probably had enough now!
For information? Search my friend
To assist you making a decision? You will have no help here as there are devotees in both camps!
In summary, we are all a little battle worn and scarred on this topic!
quote:
Originally posted by carpmart
Why do you ask?
For sport? You have probably had enough now!
For information? Search my friend
To assist you making a decision? You will have no help here as there are devotees in both camps!
In summary, we are all a little battle worn and scarred on this topic!
Marmite XO
What was the question again?
quote:
Originally posted by LBMEFM
I like Bike Engines and Marmite
quote:
Originally posted by carpmart
....................... In summary, we are all a little battle worn and scarred on this topic!
I asked the same question some time ago and got the same reaction. Dont be put off by the wee taking....many people forget just how much they know
and think everybody else is up to the same level.
You have some good members here who will help you out so stick with it. If you dont know the answer then it aint a daft question. I know cause im an
expert at daft questions...
You are all wrong! If i had to choose, i wouldn't waste any time considering the bike engine and id go for the car engine but i would reccommend
the Jag engine. Far superior than any other
Got my coat, bye!
Do like me and build BOTH at the same time.
rocket power anyone?
BEC vs CEC - Id go CEC, unless I was actually racing (rather than doing odd track days.
BEC - say 95kg with reverse. 150-180bhp
CEC - duratec with alternator/starter/instruments/adapter and gearbox/clutch 160kg, 140bhp std, 200bhp without spending a lot, see flak monkeys post
for supercharging if you want more.
You save 65 kg with a BEC. However, you must spend to ensure everything is absolutely as light as possible. On a CEC you can build with
'cheap'/normal' weight components and upgrade to lighter components as your wallet refills, as the basic clutch/gearbox etc will be
more than ok. Consider all up weight -CEC say 525kg + driver approx 610kg, 680 with the missus in, BEC would probably be 440+driver=545+passenger=615,
so really saving about 610/545 = 15% of the 'as driven' weight.
For a BEC, when people say 'if you pop and engine you can just bang another in' - yes its probably light enough to handle on your own, but
don't underestimate the work/cost as its unlikely everyting will just fit, unless you get exactly the same model of engine/year etc -
exhaust,engine mounts, loom .... all may need altering. And it'll always go wrong at the most embarrasing/inconvenient time and place.
Just my thoughts
Regards
Hugh
Just to add my thoughts..... bike engine
i was like u m8 so went out in a car and bike engine one and now got an 919honda blade so for me it was the bec and to me a good starting point for the bec
I have a BEC, and being brutally honest about 40% of the time it is a pain in the arse, about 40% of time it is great fun and about 20% of the time it
is the best choice I have ever made.
IF you are really interested, go out for a drive in both - but make sure the test drives are comparible for what you will be using the car for and
this is important because BEC's can be pretty annoying on straight A roads and motorways (noisey, high revs) so if your ito long tours with the
wife then a CEC might be a better (more boring option), if your into going banzai everywhere, then a BEC is perfect.
quote:
Originally posted by Dangle_kt
so if your ito long tours with the wife then a CEC might be a better (more boring option)
As in my case the wife hated the car when it had the car engine , now wont even get in it since i put the bike engine in, on the odd occasion she has been in it you cant here her moaning over the engine noise, bec is a win win situation as far as i can see
coyoteboy - 13/11/10 at 08:04 PMThe only real benefits from BEC that I can see are the slightly child-like nuttiness that comes frm a 6spd sequential 12+K rev limit and shaving 50-75kg off to aid cornering. And adding a lot of costs. You can more easily and cheaply get a better power-weight ratio from some very easily available, cheap car engines and while the extra 75kg might be noticable I think the ease, lack of problems and lower component stress is going to aid the lack of human stress.
Hellfire - 13/11/10 at 09:22 PMquote:
Originally posted by coyoteboy
blah, blah.... You can more easily and cheaply get a better power-weight ratio from some very easily available, cheap car engines....... blah.
Such as?......................
Benzine - 13/11/10 at 09:42 PMBEC!!!!!!!!!!!1111111111111111111111oneoneoneoneoneoneoneonetwothreefourV VI VII VIII IX X!!!!
flak monkey - 13/11/10 at 09:57 PMquote:
Originally posted by Hellfire
quote:
Originally posted by coyoteboy
blah, blah.... You can more easily and cheaply get a better power-weight ratio from some very easily available, cheap car engines....... blah.
Such as?......................
Nissan 200 SX engine (C18DET or SR20DET) and gearbox - already configured for RWD. Available tuned, secondhand for peanuts - almost literally.
There are others too.
[Edited on 14/11/10 by flak monkey]