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Things To Do Whilst Engine Is Out...
scootz - 21/1/11 at 10:33 AM

... right, have the XE engine out for painting.

I've done the cam-cover (oil breather) mod and have a new timing belt-kit and water-pump waiting to go in.

Is it worth replacing the oil-pump?

Also - can anyone tell me how to get the fecking water pump out of it's housing!? I've removed all the bits in the way and undone all the bolts, but it's stuck fast in there!


Benzine - 21/1/11 at 10:38 AM

Can't help with the engine specific question but when you have a car with no engine number one priority, i've always found, is to pretend you're in the Flintstones


MikeRJ - 21/1/11 at 10:42 AM

The water pumps are well known for corroding in place - it's an alloy bodied pump which is a snug fit into a cast iron housing so no surprise really! Assuming you don't want to re-use it a bit of carefully applied brute force and ignorance should do the trick.

The standard oil pump rotor is a sintered metal item that can break under duress. A hardened steel replacement is available from SBD, but they are quite expensive.

Have you already replaced the big end bolts with ARP items? If not this is something I would do as a matter of course on any (C)20XE that's going to be used hard.

[Edited on 21/1/11 by MikeRJ]


scootz - 21/1/11 at 10:53 AM

quote:
Originally posted by Benzine
Can't help with the engine specific question but when you have a car with no engine number one priority, i've always found, is to pretend you're in the Flintstones


Pretend? PRETEND?

I AM FRED FLINTSTONE!


scootz - 21/1/11 at 10:54 AM

quote:
Originally posted by MikeRJ
The water pumps are well known for corroding in place - it's an alloy bodied pump which is a snug fit into a cast iron housing so no surprise really! Assuming you don't want to re-use it a bit of carefully applied brute force and ignorance should do the trick.

The standard oil pump rotor is a sintered metal item that can break under duress. A hardened steel replacement is available from SBD, but they are quite expensive.

Have you already replaced the big end bolts with ARP items? If not this is something I would do as a matter of course on any (C)20XE that's going to be used hard.



Cheers Mike.

I had a feeling it would be a case of applying more pressure!

The engine is pretty well sorted internally - it's just the belts / pumps that I want to be sure are fresh.


pewe - 21/1/11 at 12:10 PM

Clutch, plate and thrust brg?
Spigot brg in flywheel?
G/box first motion shaft oil-seal?
Check the pipes, lines and cables running through/around the bay for chafing?
Spanner check on all nuts & bolts otherwise inaccessible?
Cheers, Pewe


westy turbo - 21/1/11 at 04:02 PM

Fit Z20LET and its pick up,just needs a slight mod on the pipe and it flows more.


scootz - 21/1/11 at 04:08 PM

quote:
Originally posted by westy turbo
Fit Z20LET and its pick up,just needs a slight mod on the pipe and it flows more.


Z20LET oil pump?


westy turbo - 21/1/11 at 04:58 PM

Yes,u can fit the oil pump from the Z20LET/LEH engine


perksy - 21/1/11 at 11:14 PM

Water pumps can be difficult to shift especially if the engine has been sat with no or not enough Antifreeze for any length of time
It can be knocked out if you go in through the Hole in the Block at the Rear of it where the Large water hose connects

ANY Doubts about its condition just replace it, the cam belt runs on it and it aint worth taking the risk
Their about 30 quid from Autovaux

The oil pressure releif valves can stick in the standard oil pump and there can be issues with the gears in the oil pumps aswell, upgraded parts are available from SBD

One problem the XE can suffer with is the Rear Crank seal failing, that can be a right PITA



Have a look on SBD's website theres some useful stuff to read on there...

[Edited on 21/1/11 by perksy]