Here we go a gain decided to start a fresh, has anyone got a cooling diagram for 2ltr Zetec Blacktop, not sure all my pipese are in the correct, seem to be getting trapped air????

There are loads of pics on here. But hows yours done and some one can point out whats up.

I may have circulation issues, the pipes normally used for the heater, the one on the inlet side of the engine is blanked off and the one on the exhaust side is piped into the hose leading from the bottom of the header tank going to the hose...

http://www.locostbuilders.co.uk/viewthread.php?tid=159898

Mine is done as on that diagram and I have no troubles.

On the inlet side of the thermostat is the heater and should be blanked off, the biggest one (32mm) straight to the bottom of the rad the; 19mm hose from the thermostat taps into the bottom rad hose as close to the rad.

There is a really good color coded diagram on here that I used. I'll try and find it.

Infact its on that same link if you scroll down!

Just to add I didn't bother with the green hose running to the bleed on the rad. (I've blocked that off)

[Edited on 11/10/11 by bigdrew]

On mine "Blue" from expansion tank is connected to the other blue directly after the thermostatic housing, is that right or wrong?

Mines plumbed same as the coloured diagram, no issues.

As long as the thermostat bypass hose is 't' ed hose going from pump to rad bottom, I can't see much of an issue?

To my simple brain, all you are doing is bypassing the rad to allow the engine to warm up quicker.

Have you bled the system properly? You say 'expansion' tank, do you mean 'header' tank? is it pressurised? Is the header tank at the highest point of the cooling system?

Whats the difference between the both smaller outlets trom the thermostatic housing? Now im using the one on the intake side but its a tricky +180 degree bend for the pipe/tube.

My understanding was:

Intake side:- heater
Exhaust side:- Thermostat bypass

So you need to use the exhaust side and 'T' it into the bottom hose running between pump and rad.

the heater hose can be blocked off (unless you're using a heater!)

Thanks, some rebuilding to do then..... again.

[Edited on 17/10/11 by svante]

Did a drawing some years ago to help a mate. Mine has been piped up like this for 10 years now with no problems. Only problem is I have no idea how to post a picture.

Could you email it to me and I'll post it up for you.

Don't appear to be able to send you an e-mail.

Have made my e-mail address visible now, send me a mail and I will reply with picture

[Edited on 19/10/11 by Paul Turner]

Here you go mate :-) ,Lewis

Good diagram!

That's how mine is piped except no bleed from expansion to rad top (my expansion bottle only had two outlets)

The same subject does anyone sell the components needed to install the above ie the hoses with correct bends/size/length ect as a kit the solid pipe would be easy to sort but the hoses will have to be correct.

i made up a rough diagram of what i wanted, and went to the local motor factor (Wilco) and raided their random hoses box.

Alternatively, CBS do a 'wiggly' hose that you can cut into various bends.

Lewis

Thanks for posting up the diagram, hope its useful for members.

With regards to the radiator bleed pipe I ran without one for the first couple of months but became concerned that air was trapping in the radiator. It was possibly something to do with my specific installation (the top of the rad is slightly higher than the engine) but it was annoying having to park with the front of the car pointing downhill to allow air to vent from the stat housing. Only have 2 outlets in the header myself but fitted a tee into the bleed from the stat which the rad bleeds into and have never had a problem with trapped air since about June 2002, well worth the £8.00 for bits it cost me.

With regards to pipes pretty sure no one does a kit since no 2 installs are identical. At first I used a mixture of good old rubber hoses and an alloy top pipe and alloy bottom pipe with welded tee behind the rad, got them fabricated locally. When I replaced the Silvertop with a new Blacktop the rubber hoses had gone hard and cracked thus I bit the bullet and bought some silicone hose from a company cunningly called "Performance Silicone Hose" (do a Google) and they were a cracking company to deal with. Made me bends with longer legs than standard and also made reducing bends and straits where needed, all delivered in less than a week. Took a bit of careful planning and measuring and 1/2 a day to fit but well worth the expense. Only hoses I have ever fitted that did not need nipping up after a period of use, superb and reasonably priced.

What would I do different, well I often think that getting the header higher up on the bulkhead would be better than having it under the nose cone but the way it's been for 10 years now is compact, works perfectly and keeps hose lengths to a minimum, as they say "if it ain't broke don't fix it".

Was originally tempted by the Raceline top pipe but it was expensive and I was concerned that the cap would hit the bonnet. After 10 years with this exact set-up I have no regrets.

Paul

quote:

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Originally posted by lewis
Here you go mate :-) ,Lewis

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Don't have a heater by cannot see why you cannot tee the pipe into the bypass hose, its connected to the bottom hose and the pipe would be shorter.