Been trail fitting my gearbox, but seem to be having an issue with getting it far back enough to fit prop fully and line with mount holes without
clashing with the back of the engine bay.
Anyone got any pics of there install? or point out something i may be missing out.
Its a standard 5 speed type 9, from a 1.8 cvh with demountable bellhousing.
I do not think you need to be that far onto the prop? I do not think mine is that far on. Its only a couple of screws I will have a pic for you in the morn.
striker tunnels are pretty tight but do-able. as stated as long as there's plenty of prop into the gearbox there should not be any problems. is
the gearbox mount pre-drilled? if not just re-postion to give a bit more clearance in the tight bits, alternatively a little bit of grinding on the
bell-housing here and there won't harm it. the starter area on the bell housing will be very close to the passenger foot well when its in, but as
long as its not touching 3-5mm should be ample clearance.....
just make sure the gearbox casing at the selector end has a bit of room around the tunnel members as this can move a fair bit side to side on the
rubber mount when its up and running...
also on a side note, make sure you anchor the pedal pivot bar rather than split pin through...............the previous builder of my car did just that
on mine. Result was the bar rotated in the pedal box causing elongation and wear of the shaft....
If you are sure that the front of the bellhousing is at the right height, mount the rear gearbox onto its crossmember and see what happens when the weight of the gearbox settles on its rubber bush. This will drop the rear end a little which may help with clearance (or it may make it worse) either way it's a truer picture of where the gearbox will end up. Different bellhousings have different (wider/narrower) bellys on them, so a different (narrower) bellhousing could help.
quote:
Originally posted by clanger
is the gearbox mount pre-drilled?
quote:
Originally posted by clanger
also on a side note, make sure you anchor the pedal pivot bar rather than split pin through...............the previous builder of my car did just that on mine. Result was the bar rotated in the pedal box causing elongation and wear of the shaft....
quote:
If you are sure that the front of the bellhousing is at the right height, mount the rear gearbox onto its crossmember and see what happens when the weight of the gearbox settles on its rubber bush. This will drop the rear end a little which may help with clearance (or it may make it worse) either way it's a truer picture of where the gearbox will end up. Different bellhousings have different (wider/narrower) bellys on them, so a different (narrower) bellhousing could help.
Well this is Raws suggestion:
Trim the bellhousing..
Anyone else got this on their Striker?
I've got a type 9 in my striker, will have a look when I get home.
I don't recall anything having been chopped off - is it not just a slightly to short prop shaft?
quote:
Originally posted by Norfolkluegojnr
I've got a type 9 in my striker, will have a look when I get home.
I don't recall anything having been chopped off - is it not just a slightly to short prop shaft?
quote:
Originally posted by loggyboy
quote:
Originally posted by Norfolkluegojnr
I've got a type 9 in my striker, will have a look when I get home.
I don't recall anything having been chopped off - is it not just a slightly to short prop shaft?
Ive been told its fine for the prop to be 20mm or so out, but its the pre drilled gaerbox mount dont line up, so the gearbox needs to be pretty much where it is, I can of course elongate them, but that still means the tunnel would be close, so by doing this it does look like I would have 5mm or so clearance on both sides.
quote:
Originally posted by Norfolkluegojnr
SO its cut the bellhousing as the only option? Could you not move the mount slightly?
Will have a look and let you know later.
I still think you need to have the engine and box complete in the hole, you cannot guess where you think it will go. on the older sylva strikers you did have to cut the bellhousing to fit them in. I have a type 9 on a 4age and will get some pictures for you as I will be in the garage tonight.
quote:
Originally posted by Dopdog
I still think you need to have the engine and box complete in the hole, you cannot guess where you think it will go. on the older sylva strikers you did have to cut the bellhousing to fit them in. I have a type 9 on a 4age and will get some pictures for you as I will be in the garage tonight.