Today the bits of metal I ordered to make up a frame to rest my supercharger in the hydraulic press turned up. Great I thought, I can finally get on with the rebuild.

So, I merrily cut up the metal bars and set the 'charger up in the press ready to push out the rotors. Bit of pressure, nothing moving.... bit more pressure, nothing, little more and crack.

Now, I'm no expert on superchargers, but I don't think this is going to work again:


supercharger broken

So, question is, what do I do now?

The supercharger is a TRD unit designed as a direct bolt-on fitment to US spec Toyota Camrys. They're very difficult to come by and fetch big money, especially on this site of the pond, so finding another 'for parts' isn't going to happen. But, it's well known that it's an Eaton M62 unit in a custom housing that fits in place of the inlet manifold.

Now, that said, as it's an 'M62' will the rotor pack and (more importantly) the alloy plate be the same in all M62's? In other words, if I buy a replacement unit from a Mercedes which are a lot easier to come by will I be able to swap the internals over?

Any other clues as to how to solve this problem appreciated. I won't say how much I paid for this very rare bit of kit, or how long I was looking before I found this one, but lets just say I'll be gutted if it's a dead loss!

Chris

[Edited on 26/4/2012 by ChrisW]

what about chemical metal or drilling an tapping a load of fixing and some sealer as i guess thats not a structural mounting but more a inlet flange

Is it possible this is the same blower used on the Previa vans? If so one close to me is going to the wreckers on Saturday

hay up Chris can you not get it tig welded back on as it looks like it would chin up mate

Ouch, I feel the pain!

Of interest will it come apart, or is it still all stuck togeter?

If it can be dissassembled, can the case be tigged and skimmed?

Sorry, not got any other bright ideas,..

I reckon it's Tiggy time personally though it would depend on the alloy used.

You need to get on the blower (sorry) to someone who refurbs the M62 and ask them, and possibly cross-reference part numbers. I'd also be looking at geting that casing repaired, even if it means getting it TIG welded and then milled back to size. Good luck.

if they are that rare then v it up on the inside tig it round then re machine it. almost anything can be fixed it just depends if its an economical repair or not

Ouch !

Time to TIG, it looks like you have plenty of room around the gears to add a fillet on the inside, the rotors are supported each end and aligned by the body so not a scrap item yet and hopefully no need to machine either.

While it’s in parts you can port for extra oomph, I got good gains on mine by modifying the inlet and outlet to copy a Gen5 Eaton.

I have an AC TIG, but have not done ali for a couple of years but happy to give it a go, may be a bit agricultural.

Regards Mark

As posted above, if it will tig up then im willing to have a go

quote:

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Originally posted by welderman
As posted above, if it will tig up then im willing to have a go

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The cracked part looks like a standard eaton component. There are a couple of companies that do superchargers based around eaton units and it is normally only the main housing that they custom manufacture.

Replace the fractured part. If you weld it you will end up with distortion and remove the heat treatment. Might be OK but why take the risk. If the rotors touch each other or the housing you scrap it.

Martin Keenan at MK Engineering would weld that up no problem.

I assume from your post that it doesn't matter about other rotors as it's the housing that's custom?

quote:

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Originally posted by tasmod
Martin Keenan at MK Engineering would weld that up no problem.

I assume from your post that it doesn't matter about other rotors as it's the housing that's custom?

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Yes, realised reference alignment problem later.

Sorry I see you mean the main housing is custom but this is an endplate.

I had a similar problem when a customer had a blocked oil feed line causing bearing seizure, so bad it stopped the engine and it wouldn't turn over at all on starter. Endplate was scored deep but had it welded up and skimmed accurately.

Talk to Roger Clarke here in Reading.
He's an ace welder to the point of being anally retentive in his perfection.
Quote from Scoobynet:-
Try Roger Clarke
12a, Shaftesbury Rd, Reading, Berkshire RG30 2QP (Just off the Oxford Rd) 01189 507735 or 07803477221.
(Amazing quality & hugely talented.)

And if you're in the area pop in for a cuppa.
HTH.
Cheers, Pewe10

i would let joe welderman sort it he is the man

pretty sure its a generic part as the difference between m45 and m62 is rotor length not diameter ,i had the part you need from my trashed m45 but sods law it went in the scrap bin a couple of weeks back

[img]http://i144.photobucket.com/albums/r187/froggy_0[/img]

Need to start looking for pics of M62's disassembled I guess and see if it looks the same. That's the ideal scenario in my book as the rotors I have are not in the best nick - see my previous thread, some of the coating has worn off.

But yes, I accept, welding it could probably be done if it came to it. The only problem is that I can't get the rotors out, and now I can't press it either as I'll just damage the housing even more.

Chris

Does anyone know of a (preferably local) supercharger rebuild company/person to take this mess to for some advice? I'm near Aylesbury, Buckinghamshire.

I'm sure there was one in Langley (near Uxbridge), or close by there, but can't find it now!

Chris

quote:

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Originally posted by ChrisW
Does anyone know of a (preferably local) supercharger rebuild company/person to take this mess to for some advice? I'm near Aylesbury, Buckinghamshire.

I'm sure there was one in Langley (near Uxbridge), or close by there, but can't find it now!

Chris

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quote:

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Originally posted by BaileyPerformance

quote:

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Originally posted by ChrisW
Does anyone know of a (preferably local) supercharger rebuild company/person to take this mess to for some advice? I'm near Aylesbury, Buckinghamshire.

I'm sure there was one in Langley (near Uxbridge), or close by there, but can't find it now!

Chris

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Hi Chris,

I would just get another blower if i was you. what engine are you putting it on? have your already made the required mountings / pulley's?

If not go for the most common blower, M90.

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quote:

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Originally posted by ChrisW

quote:

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Originally posted by BaileyPerformance

quote:

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Originally posted by ChrisW
Does anyone know of a (preferably local) supercharger rebuild company/person to take this mess to for some advice? I'm near Aylesbury, Buckinghamshire.

I'm sure there was one in Langley (near Uxbridge), or close by there, but can't find it now!

Chris

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Hi Chris,

I would just get another blower if i was you. what engine are you putting it on? have your already made the required mountings / pulley's?

If not go for the most common blower, M90.

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Please read the thread before replying!!!

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Just an update on this. First off I finally managed to get an account on the forum that was recommended, although it wasn't much help in the end.

However, I have discovered that the BMW Mini M45 supercharger PROBABLY shares the bearing plate (the bit I broke) with the M62. The only difference is the length of the rotors and of course the housing, all the other dimensions are the same.

So, my plan is to buy an M45 and raid it for the broken part. Obviously these are far easier to come by in the UK than an M62, and therefore considerably cheaper.

I say 'probably' because all I've been able to do so far is compare photographs and dimensions. Everything matches up so far but until I get the two parts together I won't know for sure. Will update as/when that happens.

Cheers, Chris

The M62 has longer rotors then the M45 but the other dimensions are the same. The M90 has the same length rotors as the M62 but they are of a larger diameter. The M112 has the same diameter rotors as the M90 but are longer.
There are different types of M62. The ones in the UK mainly seem to come from earlier Mercs. and have the electric clutch. The clutch is the first point of failure and so you see a lot on Ebay being sold without one. Don't touch them, because even if the charger and casing is OK, a replacement clutch is megabucks if you can get hold of one!
Trouble is on the clutch type M62 the drive pulley runs on a bearing mounted on a nose protruding from the casing which takes all the load from the belt. The pulley is not on the drive shaft. The pulley has a coil inside it and when energised pulls the clutch plate onto the end face of the pulley. This clutch plate is all that is mounted on the drive shaft. The problem with all this is that the drive shaft is small and has no outboard bearing supporting it so is completely different than the M45 (and other Eaton chargers) drive arrangement. I couldn't tell from your photo if your M62 is like this, but if it is you wont be able to retrofit the M45 snout and drive.
Of course I learnt all this the hard way. I bought an M62 with a totally fried clutch. When this happens the bearing seizes and spins on the casing nose wrecking it, but you can't tell until it is all apart. I got lucky and managed to pick up a case with a good nose, and found a replacement bearing (very special and non-standard) on US Ebay. The coil was just a block of molten copper and insulation, but I didn't want to use it anyway so I have bolted the clutch plate to the pulley. From Merc forums this seems to be something others have done successfully in the past.
Picture uploaded showing the two drive types. Not sure how I link it to this post. The one on the right is the clutch type.

Tim

The reason you couldn't get this apart is because the gears are pressed on for life with interference to suit. This is done with good reason. The front of the rotors will have a clearance of about a thou with the rear of the rotors set to about a thou and a half before the gears are pressed on. This is so the gearing has as close to no backlash as possible to allow much tighter running clearances and hence better efficiency.

Eaton do not supply these rotor/plate/gear units separately and have strict rules preventing external suppliers, like magnusson, from doing the same with new units. The housing bearing journals are machined with the bearing plate in situ to guarantee alignment just as you would with main bearing caps and blocks or cam caps and heads.

Might be worth a try using a secondhand rotor/bearing plate/gear set unit as you could assemble the lot and do a basic check for rotor/rotor and both rotor/housing clearances by putting engineering blue on the male rotor tips to see if you get any contact anywhere. You won't be able to determine the actual clearance at static or high running temperatures though.

Just to update on this, it seems the M45 bearing carrier is exactly the same as the M62, at least in my application. I bought an M45 from a Mini Cooper.

I'm going to send all the bits off to Bennett Racing who will strip it down, re-coat the rotors, and assemble it all with the bearing carrier from the M45. I'm not going to risk breaking another one by attempting it myself!

Chris

Do you mind if I ask what they charge for that?

They want £350 all in, including stripping and recoating the rotors.

Chris

Does that include new bearings?

Sorry for all the questions . How about the needle bearings? Can they change those?

As far as I know that's for everything. I was planning on doing it myself (I have all the bearings, including the needles) but after this setback I'm going to let the professionals do it instead!

However, please enquire if you need to be sure as I've only had provisional email conversations with them so far. I'd not specifically asked about the needle bearings, I'm just assuming it's included.

Chris