Noticed various posts about Nicktp's engine probs. Since I'm running a very similar engine (1600 Xflow, big valve head), was wondering what
caused the bottom end grief? I need to be cautious, 'cos I haven't run my engine for long periods - yet!!
My main concern is with ground clearance - 50mm, with std xflow sump. What did have with yours? Mine already scrapes the lock mechanism, in centre of
the garage floor. Have to drive car out over wooden spacers to avoid it.
Second prob, after running engine for about 10mins. Fan does not switch on. This fan came from an elderly Nissan Micra, complete with the rad, so I
simply wired the fan switch in. Am wondering how to check fan operation without emptying cooling system. Any ideas?
This is what I did to get 100mm clearance.
Linky
Good ole DJ! Thanks for your advice, Mr. Jenkins, because that's exactly how my sump looks at the moment. I have a shortened sump, waiting to fit, but unfortunately, no matching oil pick-up. And this is why the original sump remains in place. Will be checking out with other Locosters from here. Hoping that there will be no ground protrusions at the IVA test centre (Kidderminster).
50mm ground clearance is far too little.
1300cc, 4 speed box and standard sump. My sump is 95mm from the road and the bottom of the sump pan is about level with the large web on the gearbox that runs in line with the gearbox from the front edge of the bell housing. There would be no advantage to shortening mine so what is different with my set-up then? If you are simly testing the sender unit to see if it is working, would blasting it with a heat gun do the biz or drop it in some very hot water with the ignition on?
quote:
Originally posted by Dick Axtell
Good ole DJ! Thanks for your advice, Mr. Jenkins, because that's exactly how my sump looks at the moment. I have a shortened sump, waiting to fit, but unfortunately, no matching oil pick-up.
but it all works, as long as you take a lot of trouble to clean as much of the oil
off as you can before you start. Soft-solder is fine for this job as there's a lot of surface area in the join, and the temperature won't
get high enough to melt it in service (or, if it does, you're in serious trouble elsewhere!). I used plumber's flux to help the solder to
flow (took a lot of care to clean it off afterwards, even though it said that it wasn't corrosive). quote:
Originally posted by David Jenkins
I shortened my oil pickup... cut a bit out of the tube a little way above the filter, and soft-soldered a sleeve to join the two ends together.
I might be singing to the choir here, but just a note: it is far easier to cut a hole in your bonnet for clearance, than replacing your engine due to oil starvation, resulting from hitting the ground. I am speaking from first hand, really, really, frustrating, and very expensive, experience.
The trouble with raising the engine is that you also raise the gearbox - check that you have clearance in the tunnel before getting too carried away.
quote:
Originally posted by Dick Axtell
Noticed various posts about Nicktp's engine probs. Since I'm running a very similar engine (1600 Xflow, big valve head), was wondering what caused the bottom end grief? I need to be cautious, 'cos I haven't run my engine for long periods - yet!!
My main concern is with ground clearance - 50mm, with std xflow sump. What did have with yours? Mine already scrapes the lock mechanism, in centre of the garage floor. Have to drive car out over wooden spacers to avoid it.
Second prob, after running engine for about 10mins. Fan does not switch on. This fan came from an elderly Nissan Micra, complete with the rad, so I simply wired the fan switch in. Am wondering how to check fan operation without emptying cooling system. Any ideas?
Looking again at David Jenkins link it would appear there may be different designs of sump pan for the x flow. I have had two on mine, the first one I actually cracked on a speed hump inronically, and have recently fitted a second bought on ebay. Both look to be shallower and with a slightly flatter bottom than that shown in the link. Perhaps a posting on a specific Ford web site may solve the problem. Fitting a ready made sump may be easier than shortening one.
There are 2 different ones that I've experienced - the one for the 1300 is shallower than the 1600, but you can't put the 1300 one on a 1600
as the crank just clips it (guess how I know).
The sump on a Mk1 XR2 should also fit, but i don't know the shape of that one.
quote:
Originally posted by David Jenkins
There are 2 different ones that I've experienced - the one for the 1300 is shallower than the 1600, but you can't put the 1300 one on a 1600 as the crank just clips it (guess how I know).
The sump on a Mk1 XR2 should also fit, but i don't know the shape of that one.
Thanks all for your replies, and the U2U messages. Have still to verify bonnet-rocker cover clearance, as a start point. I realised that there was a
problem here, early in the build, and made new, lower engine mounts. Might have to make new ones.
The rad fan issue might just have to wait until the sump matter has been dealt with, as IVA date is 17th Sept. Must check with IVA tester tomorrow.
Min clearance 75 to 80mm 100mm is ideal
I could be wrong but I think there may have been sumps with the lower section in the front and another with it at the rear. The Xflow engined Cortina sump was different from the Escort?
Your fan switch should tell its range on the face, if not you could wip it out, boil the kettle and test with a multimeter on continuity across the
two points. If you get a good one they can normally tell you the temp at the same time.
The multiple meter will tell you if it's working ( if it beeps ) then you can start to test working temperature, if you need a hand give me a
shout. I also wired in a manual over ride for tottering round town.
Cheers.