I thought I would start a thread on getting an St170 engine to run in a kitcar using its own ecu.
Yes I know you can stick bike carbs on it ect but you wont do it as cheap as this and get the same level of emissions imho.
Budget so far £45 BUT I DONT HAVE THE ENGINE YET 
1hr's Work. Can I turn the immobilizer on and off.....Answer YES
A good start but lots and lots of work todo 
[Edited on 22/9/12 by big_wasa]
Thats looking very good. I will be following this very closely !
Regards
Jon
Pointless exercise, the st170 uses a return less fuel system, and also uses a special controller to run the fuel pump, plus you would have to use the standard inlet with the inlet manifold runner control. Leave that off and it will be stuck in limp mode, plus the fact it runs 2 lambda sensors.... A friend ran it on standard mondeo ecu with the inlet cam timed up for full lift @ 110 degrees and it made 155bhp no problem
Good work!
The returnless fuel system can very probably be used as-is (yes, with a different tank) or replaced by a simple system WITH a return at a set
pressure. Running just the upstream lambda will probably throw a code but I have never seen cars go into limp home mode for such a simple fault.
Keep at it, no matter what the critics say!
quote:
Originally posted by rhinopower
Pointless exercise, the st170 uses a return less fuel system, and also uses a special controller to run the fuel pump, plus you would have to use the standard inlet with the inlet manifold runner control. Leave that off and it will be stuck in limp mode, plus the fact it runs 2 lambda sensors.... A friend ran it on standard mondeo ecu with the inlet cam timed up for full lift @ 110 degrees and it made 155bhp no problem
The ecu was already fitted as he had a normal 2.0 fitted before. 155 was at the flywheel. Most st170's only make 160 on the dyno anyway if your lucky. Most of the stuff that's used for emission control is where it loses its power
Yep I know they vairy on the rollers 155-170.
I shall see what bhp/£ I get compared with my zetec E on standard mangment,
The real work has started on stripping the loom to reduce it.
starts here.
Great work! 
Favourited- keep us updated!
Loom looks like a job and a half
Keep at it, if you hit problems I'm sure you'll bounce back
Sorry ill get my coat
This is very interesting to me ,As i am fitting an ST 170 into my mk1 Cortina
I have the full engine loom key transponder etc
I want to use the ecu to control the vvt ,I would be happy with 170 bhp
Please keep us updated
P.S i joined ages ago but cannot log in on the other account
Where in the world are you ?
Coventry 
Any progress?>
yes busy beavering away when I find time.
First job, let the dog see the rabbit.
There are four looms in the engine bay. The main car loom and three for the engine. Its these three ive started on. There is only two on the <2000
mondeo and other than a couple of extra plugs thats all you need. So Ive stripped back the three sub looms.
I am now tracing back from the ecu the 104 pins
Where I am now at.
The wires I havnt traced yet seem to go to a telemetrics modual. Ie can bus. More reading to do
I have the full loom key transponder ,even the steering column ,(I also have a spare injector loom off the engine ) I would not know where to start
lol
I hope you sort it though ,Would save people a load of cash
[Edited on 11/10/12 by Lingy]
Just as a pionter. Dont remove any sensors that you think it doesnt need. Ford have this nasty LOS system and it put the ecu in limp mode with sensor
failure.
Your also going to have to fit the gearbox speed sensor and the full inlet system as it needs to see the VIS valve working.
If you get it done and worked out then its a good one for anyone wanting an engine to pass the IVA, emmissions are good on the st and the cat can be
placed much further from the engine and still work.
I have a full spare loom, ecu and key from mine
Yep that is the challenge. Its not if it will run, its if I can keep the ecu happy to make it run at full power.
I want to keep the vvt and the dsi. There is no egr as the vvt is used to cut the overlap on the bottom end of the revs. I will run the vss from the
mt75 gearbox sensor. It works great on my eecv.
The second o2 sensor should be fine with a decat if I make up a mil eliminator ( 1 resistor + 1 capacitor ).
About the only sensor I will ditch is the evap purge valve, if that thoroughs a mil I will make the ecu think its there.
It then comes down to lack of com's with the other systems along the can-bus.
quote:
Originally posted by Lingy
I have the full loom key transponder ,even the steering column ,(I also have a spare injector loom off the engine ) I would not know where to start lol
I hope you sort it though ,Would save people a load of cash
[Edited on 11/10/12 by Lingy]
Good to see you have another system to work on. I remember people saying it could not be done with the standard ecu on the blacktop!!! Will be good to see the start up vid....
No i have no dash loom ? I have been told its needed for the sensors in the dash
Is that right?
Just been going through this elimination process on my Puma loom. I found it easier with the help of Ford TIS wiring diagrams to start with all the plugs rather than at the ECU end and eliminate the obviously unwanted. A top tip from a member on here is to watch out for switches like PAS pressure and possibley A/C where the switch must be in the normal not loaded condition to avoid over fuelling and other effects.
quote:
Originally posted by Lingy
No i have no dash loom ? I have been told its needed for the sensors in the dash
Is that right?
Would i not need the dash loom then?
What sort of money would it cost to get a loom sorted
For my mk1 ?
quote:
Originally posted by johnH20
Just been going through this elimination process on my Puma loom. I found it easier with the help of Ford TIS wiring diagrams to start with all the plugs rather than at the ECU end and eliminate the obviously unwanted. A top tip from a member on here is to watch out for switches like PAS pressure and possibley A/C where the switch must be in the normal not loaded condition to avoid over fuelling and other effects.
quote:
Originally posted by Lingy
Would i not need the dash loom then?
quote:
Originally posted by Lingy
What sort of money would it cost to get a loom sorted
For my mk1 ?
Its a shame your so far away,But if theres a way I'm very interested
In having mine sorted out ,I want the vvt to work as it should ...
Yeh shame as I havnt got the full engine yet, If yours was ready to go yours could have been the test donky
I would have done the work and the only cost to you would be to see some dyno and emissions results.
How far along is your project ?
[Edited on 11/10/12 by big_wasa]
Im at the stage of mocking the engine and box in the bay
Plenty of parts needed yet though 
Hi big wasa, got my TIS off ebay like you many years ago. Not the easiest thing to navigate but there is a lot in there if you can find it. I found the 'connector view' particularly useful for tracing all the plugs and selecting what to eliminate.
I've got that with autodata, info is a bit thin on the st.
Any news on this chap?
Work has been really busy but I have bought a cheap fuel pump and a few more bits and bobs. I hope to get a few hours on it this week end.
Brilliant ,I have the engine ready to go in ,Just been modding the sump and
Mounts ,Long way off yet,Just wanted to ask incase you had got any further with it ,
Cheers
Good luck with this Warrenl, Ill be watching with intrest ive just brought a St170 to fit into my roadster but im planning on Jenveys and Omex for my
install next winter.
Carl
Ive done a marathon session on the wiring loom this week end.
I "think" I have traced back and worked out the colour and function of every pin on the st170 ecu loom.
Now starts the work of choping the loom up and removing the bits I dont want and rebuilding the loom to fit my kitcar.
I am finding twice as many functions means twice as much work 
If any one is thinking of having ago ? then the only plug you need of the car loom with the fuse box is the plug for the Imrc.
On the gearbox loom you want the pre o2 sensor plug and the cps plug.
On the dash board loom there is the tranceiver plug and the obd2 port. I just robbed these two from a mk3 mondeo.
[Edited on 18/11/12 by big_wasa]
Any more updates bud ?
Winter is my super busy period at work so ive only touched it, to move it
The loom is nearly finished and ive sourced other bits for the static engine but I still havnt found a cheap local engine.
Should be ready to bench test the loom in the next week or so.
Good luck i hope you can get it working stripped down
As it would control the vvt as it should
quote:
Originally posted by Lingy
Good luck i hope you can get it working stripped down
As it would control the vvt as it should
Haha yeah ,You might get swamped with people wanting them if it works properly
And we have progress. It was cold out side, the wife was at work and the kids where glued to some silly xbox game so I had the afternoon finishing my
wiring loom.
A quick check over and I had to see if I could make it fire. I dont have an st engine yet so I slapped it on the silvertop.
Its running in very much a limp home mode as the sensors that are conected are only sat on top of the engine bar the crank / cam / coil.
The reasons for this again is getting the st engine to run in a 7 on a budget with the vvt and dsi that will go well and meet iva emisions.
And when I say budget, ive been paying <£30 for ecu's.
Still lots to do..... But looks promissing.
[Edited on 12/1/13 by big_wasa]
How will you byepass the dash /Petrol pump and all the other sensors etc ?
Surely It will only ever run in limp mode while the ecu is looking for the sensors ?
What do you mean by bypassing the dash ?
What do you mean by bypassing the fuel pump ?
Most of the dash gets its info by canbus by the same conection from the ecu as the obd2 port. For a bench engine I can conect a bluetooth dongle and
have a vertial dash on a tablet pc and use the Torque software. Or being cheaper I can wire it up to the garage pc like I did with the dta.
http://youtu.be/PzaIcZVmEtg
In car you could run one of the obd2 style dials or add extra sensors for any dials you like.
Fuel pump, Ive been looking a lot at this and have butchered a perfectly good st170 pump to see what makes it special. The answer is not a lot.
You have a pump and a one way check valve. There is a tube down to a bit of plastic with a tiny tiny hole that looks like it bleeds the presure in the
pump when its not running.
The St170 Is returnless for emissions reasons. It has a driver and a fuel presure sensor in the rail.
My plans for the fuel system are an external setup, so out of the tank / swirl pot into a filter, to a pump to a check valve to a filter and to the
fuel rail with the st170 driver running the pump and the ecu controling the driver.
Drivers are cheap and fuel presure sensor comes on the fuel rail so hapy days.
Its still early days as untill I can get an engine and bench run it I cant tell if the ecu will need any info from other items along the can bus.
Unlike older fords there is very little in the way of emisions extras to mess about with. No egr ect. So I am using nearly all the sensors found on
the engine. I will bin the canister purge and give the ecu a dummy load.
But we have progress in that its running.
For the test the engine sensors/ actuators where pluged in but not showing all the corect data to the ecu.
ie
The fuel presure sensor would see no presure.
The maf would see no air flow.
The Tps would show the corect value for idle.
Both O2 sensors are sat in fresh air but they wouldnt be needed untill it runs closed loop.
Imrc and the fuel pump driver where not pluged in.
Barometric sensor was plugged in, aswell as canister purge.
Iat would read fine so would the Ect
Its just what reading up lead me to believe ,I know nothing about car electrics
What you have done already is way beyond me ,Good work ,Its a pity theres no one local to you who has an ST
To test it out on .
I will get one but ive just spent lots of dosh on the tintop brakes and xmas and other stuff.
Can you get the standard inlet into your project ?
I am going to try ,I have been talking to a guy who is using his ,Although hes stripped a few things off it to get it to fit upside down
I just need some longer 50mm silicone ,Im not sure i can use it if i have to connect everything up
^ this has to come off and the holes will need sealing ,Any idea what it is
Also the air tract lever needs to be locked fully open ?
Using the oe loom hopefully these parts are s not needed ? Or its got to be aftermarket ecu
Yeh there needed. The first item is the idle control valve and if the dsi doesnt work it will go into limp home mode and if you make the ecu think its working the map will give you no bottom end torque.
Its got to be the aftermarket ecu then .Cheers
[Edited on 13/1/13 by Lingy]
Shame, but if it wont fit it wont fit.
Will have another look tomorrow after work
I Might have room to twist it slighty ..
Had another look ,Seems like i was wrong ,OEM bits will fit ,Thankfully
Not sure what that pipe is
I will buy some silicone tonight off ebay and get it fitted up ,I will need to fab a bracket to hold it ,But looks like its going to fit upside down
,Ok not perfect looking but who is looking but locost
What do you think?
Yeh that hole can be blanked, There are a few ports for the canister and brake servo.
I have no servo yet ,But i am looking for bits to complete this now
Do i need the ignition to dash loom if i have my loom
Trimmed down ? I got the full steering column with barrel key
Transponder ring thing Etc but that part of the loom was cut ,Leaving me just the plug
With a few wires hanging out of it .
I dont think I will need the clocks or the wirring for them. You only need the aerial around the ignition and the plug. You will also want an obd2 plug from under the steering. You could nick this from any ford of the year. I took mine from a 2001 mondeo and it cost me a quid.
Will grab the obd thing from a Scrappy
Hows it coming along
No real progress due to work and the scooby needing some attention.
I still need a cheap engine.
If you get yours installed with all the bits let me know and you c
an be guinea pig. I will make you a loom and you can test it.
That would be Brilliant although i just removed the motor to bare metal the bay
Its primed so ile build it back up and let you know
No rush then. 
I will see what I can come up with.
And I now have an engine to play with.
So ive striped the engine down to a tall block.
And ive picked up a spare sump and flywheel from a 1.8 blacktop and started choping the sump.
Some progress m8.
Will be watching this one
Excellent
Some progress.
Saturday. Having read off a local builder building a jig to chop the sump. An email was fired of and a quick ride across town see the top of the sump
snipped of perfectly square. He then gave me the idea of building the short end up and running it back under the jig to make it square and equal to
the rest. so another ride back an hour later, Thanks Martin .
The bottom was mabe out of the last of the steel from the locost floor.
Sunday. Having been dragged around Primark this morning I escaped to the garage after tea. I chopped up two pick up pipes and mocked it up with a fuel
clip. When I got it where I wanted it I thought I would just get the tig out and join it up. Then I decided I would cut of the bracket and weld it on
for suport.
Being nagged to come in, I thought I would just tack the bottom on, I got carried away and welded it around.
There is still one pin hole in the mig welding but the tig weld is good to go. Then I can test its oil tight.
Progress may get a little slower as ive taken on another wiring job that was offered a few weeks back, vag 20vt on a dta into a vw Caddy.
[Edited on 5/3/13 by big_wasa]
I trimmed the ali bits off mine and modded the crossmember keeping it simple
That looks like top work there bud
There is one pin hole in a mig weld where three corners meet.
I just need some time and some better weather to crack on again.
Need to finish the Dta/1.8t loom by next weekend so will be after that.
Well thats the Vag 1.8t / Dta loom finished I hope
Just over there to test fire it............Arse is twitching, s60 is somthing like £800 one wrong wire and puff.......
I should be able get on with my project next weekend.
Some progress....
Work has steadied up but that just means the wife had me do the garden
So I've
Cut up and remade the loom.
Cleaned up the engine.
Cut and shut the sump.
Replaced the leaking cam cover gasket and grommets. ££ 
I've made up the alternator kit
I've cut a set of plates out of 6mm plate for the engine mounts.
I've now got to mount it to something. Getting closer.
Nice work !!
Eventually, do you know if your sump goes lower than a Zetec Short Sump ? (raceline for instance)
I am not sure about the race line but other silvertop sumps like the scholar engines and dunnell are 165mm. This one is 150mm as recommended by
others.
No point in going lower as the gearbox will be sticking out below the sump.
quote:
Originally posted by big_wasa
I've now got to mount it to something. Getting closer.
quote:
Originally posted by JeffJeffers
quote:
Originally posted by big_wasa
I've now got to mount it to something. Getting closer.
I know of a little green car you can mount it to if you struggle to find something!
More progress, I seem to be doing loads but it doesn't look like much.
I've cut a dust guard out of 1.5mm steel. Fitted the flywheel and a new clutch.
Nice progress ,Have you tested the loom on the motor?
Tested yes, its never been an issue "will it run". The challenge has always been if I can run it with out it being in limp home mode.
I haven't got anything to put it in so I have had to make another test bed. I really should learn to keep one as even when I beg, borrow and
scrounging bits, the test bed is costing cash.
So its mounted to a frame. I am waiting on bits for the cooling system but ive made a start on the lower rail. 35mm out of the pump and the rad is
32mm. Ive rolled the bead either end and added the two spurs for the bypass and header tank.
I need to make real progress so I can get it finished and sell it on.
[Edited on 20/6/13 by big_wasa]
Sell it on ?
I Look forward to seeing your results
Yep I haven't got anything to put it in at the moment.
I need to wind up all my projects as I am looking to move house. Who knows I may even get a double garage out of the job
If I can get the st to run as it should then I can get the RS to run so budget Rs could be next.
I've got a tuned ST170 in my westfield, with reworked head, Jenvey throttle bodies, uprated camshafts (but I don't know which), offloaded
electric water pump, remote oil cooler and oil filter, Denso lightweight alternator and Omex 600 ignition. The loom is purely Omex.
I've just redone all the cooling system because it was over cooling last year.
I can't claim credit for it, as I bought the car with the engine in it, but it goes like stink :-) It's quicker than a Caterham R400 down
the straights at Cadwell, but not as quick as a R500.
I'm not far from you in Doncaster if you want a ride for inspiration - when the rain stops
[Edited on 20/6/13 by barraw]
[Edited on 20/6/13 by barraw]
[Edited on 20/6/13 by barraw]
That's the electrics finished. I just need to finish the exhaust so I can put the two o2 sensors in it and add a fuel tank.
First start
Still need to do the exhaust and a few other bits.
[Edited on 4/7/13 by big_wasa]
Excellent
Good work i'm fitting an ST170 engine into an MGB GT i've got all the standard ST harness plus the key & ecu any information would be greatly appreciated.
That's brilliant, nice work
All in good time. I need to test the engine for longer to make sure there is no sensor faults or errors that trigger a limp home situation making this
a waste of time.
The problem you will have in the mgb is the inlet manifold. This has a dsi (dual stage inlet ) if the motor is not connected it gives a cel code.
There maybe away around this but that will give less low down torque that this engine is known for.
If you was making a locost I think you could make it fit by having the steering linkage above the drivers feet, mk style and moving the cross brace to
the passenger side.
quote:
Originally posted by ttbiker
Good work i'm fitting an ST170 engine into an MGB GT i've got all the standard ST harness plus the key & ecu any information would be greatly appreciated.
I've got the DSI motor(IMRC as Ford calls it) and the fuel pump + the ecu to control the pump so i should have everything i need, I'm just lacking in electrical knowledge!
Yep, the proper name for the dsi motor is the Imrc.
So would you be able to do it your self with ecu pin outs and other key info or are you looking for something you can plug in and add power ?
With the latter there is already a queue and I haven't finished this one.
I should be able to do it myself(or talk nicely to one of the electronic's guy's at work!)
How's the testing going have any fault codes shown up?
Just one up to yet to say the Imrc motor is stuck open. I will be taking that to bits for the "mod".
I have now got an oil leak after trimming the sump a little more for a slimmer starter motor so that needs re sealing.
Hope to post more up over the weekend.
Its been a busy day in the garage and ive loved it.
So ive knocked up a 7 style exhaust and added both o2 sensors.
Time for testing.
So Testing has started
The ignition panel has a toggle switch as the ignition run. Its illuminated to show power. The red lamp is for the alternator charge light and the
back light on the starter button is for the low oil pressure warning light.
So turn the power on and the Pats indicator stops flashing and stays on solid for a couple of seconds before going out. The immobilizer is happy and
disarmed. The engine can now be started.
A quick press of the button and she fires into life. The oil pressure light and alternator charge light go out.
The idle is a little high but settles down to an expected 880 ish rpm. Note the engine isn't keen on no air filter.
So its been running now for around 3/4 of an hour and is running great. Fan is cutting in at 101 deg and of again at 95 deg. Its gone through a couple
of litres of unleaded and is still showing no Cel codes. Its happy running with out the dash.
Jobs to do.
Get some more petrol and run it for longer.
Buy some proper sealant for the sump.
Dress the engine.
And last of all find a new home for it.
Then starts the paper work
[Edited on 4/8/13 by big_wasa]
Good work i bet your well chuffed! just a couple of questions what fuel pump have you used & whats that to the left of the fuel pump ecu?
price warren?
quote:
Originally posted by daveb666
price warren?
quote:
Originally posted by ttbiker
Good work i bet your well chuffed! just a couple of questions what fuel pump have you used & whats that to the left of the fuel pump ecu?
Will be doing a for sale add this week end.
For me to spend a lot of time doing a write up like the zetec one I did. I would need more interest than that got.
Thats a shame i was looking foward to the write up
will you still be able to supply me some information so i can get a loom built or will you be selling your loom separately?
Erm, I am sure I can sort some thing out.
A how to write up is a fare bit of work just for one or two.
So can you do us a loom mate?
This thread is long since zombied, but, inspired by Big_wasa, I'm doing a full strip of my ST170 loom, and rebuild it 'lighter'.
I was fortunate enough to start from a full MOT'd car, so I shouldn't be missing anything. I did sell the console with the clock and hence
my immobiliser-armed LED, but that should be a 50c replacement.
All Ford interconnects (unions that join wire to another wire, or go through bulkheads etc) have been cut out, leaving only connector to connector
links).
I'm doing up a big spreadsheet of every connector I need (I'll caveat this;
I'mbuilding a MEV Rocket, so no doors, alarm, AC, power steering etc), what
colour the stock wires are, and what pin on what connector/fuse/relay they go to. There's a tab for the Fuses and relays too.
Initially I'm doing track-only, so v1 won't have lights, horn etc.
Should be finished the theory part in about a week or two, and I've wired up about 20% of the connectors for real in the garage. Probably a
couple of months till turn over, it's a one-day-a-weekend project.
Absolutely wouldn't be possible (for me) without the Ford wiring diagram, and I use the connector and component references from it throughout.
Probably going to need it to use my guide.
[Edited on 6/5/16 by Case_Sensitive]
[Edited on 6/5/16 by Case_Sensitive]
Progress so far. Again, this is for an ST170 engined kit-car, and presumes you have the original wiring loom, or want to use the same colours.
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B-1teQkzjga4dTdBMVN4ZXRuNjg/view?usp=sharing
http://www.locostbuilders.co.uk/viewthread.php?tid=190440
quote:
Originally posted by big_wasa
http://www.locostbuilders.co.uk/viewthread.php?tid=190440
More information the better. Each one I do I get the info over a little better.( not my strong point) See the Zetec SE.
My next one is for a mid engine.
Coming soon Focus rs managed turbo Zetec.
Hi Wassa, I just recently got my ST170 MGB up and running it should be on the road in the next couple of weeks, I'll post some pics up when I get chance..
quote:
Originally posted by big_wasa
More information the better. Each one I do I get the info over a little better.( not my strong point) See the Zetec SE.
My next one is for a mid engine.
Coming soon Focus rs managed turbo Zetec.
quote:
Originally posted by ttbiker
Hi Wassa, I just recently got my ST170 MGB up and running it should be on the road in the next couple of weeks, I'll post some pics up when I get chance..
quote:
Originally posted by Case_Sensitive
quote:
Originally posted by big_wasa
More information the better. Each one I do I get the info over a little better.( not my strong point) See the Zetec SE.
My next one is for a mid engine.
Coming soon Focus rs managed turbo Zetec.
Brilliant! Is that a fuel tank or N2O?
My heart will likely ultimately take me back to aFord Racing Puma, and the Sigma / Zetec SE
Yeh it's a converted fire extinguisher for a fuel tank.
I love the simplicity of the Zetec e.
Vindicator666 - 18/5/16 at 10:31 PMfor some reason i can only see up to page 5, anyone else having the same issues?
ttbiker - 24/8/16 at 08:56 AMquote:
Originally posted by big_wasa
quote:
Originally posted by ttbiker
Hi Wassa, I just recently got my ST170 MGB up and running it should be on the road in the next couple of weeks, I'll post some pics up when I get chance..
Look forward to seing them
http://www.locostbuilders.co.uk/photos.php?action=showphoto&photo=2IMAG0497_zps1s7cgxo2.jpg
ttbiker - 24/8/16 at 10:44 AMHere's the full car Wassa..
http://www.locostbuilders.co.uk/photos.php?action=showphoto&photo=IMAG0493_zpsrqfdbgoc.jpg
[Edited on 24/8/16 by ttbiker]
big_wasa - 24/8/16 at 02:55 PMNice work so you got the inlet in OK.
ttbiker - 24/8/16 at 04:37 PMquote:
Originally posted by big_wasa
Nice work so you got the inlet in OK.
Yes no problems, it's runs really well maybe looking at supercharging it next year
hairball29 - 28/9/17 at 04:05 PMHi, all
First time here and I really hope someone can help me with a nagging problem i have.
I live in the states and I have a Caterham with an '04 SVT motor and I need to get it through emissions here in Georgia. Emissions here doesn't actually mean what comes out the exhaust, it means they plug a reader into the OBD port and fail it if any codes exist, whether or not they're related to exhaust gas! It's strange, but i'm stuck with it.
My problem is that my car has codes p0453 and p1451 permanently in the system due to how the wiring and/or switches were modified for this car, but i see from reading this thread that it's possible to install a resistor to perhaps tell the ECU (pin 56 perhaps?) that all is well with the tank pressure and stop the codes reappearing.
The other requirement from the man is i have to have MIL on the dash. I can't see from the diagram which pin relates to the MIL. I think it's pin 2 from what else I've read, but I wonder if anyone can help me figure the above out? If so, does this pin switch to ground or + voltage when a code is present?
I've called mechanics and garages and most won't go near this car because it's weird. The car's also a pain to start, but that's my next challenge for when I can get it roadworthy
thanks in advance
[Edited on 28/9/17 by hairball29]
jeanp - 9/2/20 at 06:09 PMHi everybody!
I posted few months ago some questions about restarting my ST 170 engine: Someone of this blog give me an advice, so I followed the Excel sheet on this post and now, the engine run! Magic!!!
Well, now I've some questions about a pipe and 3 hoses: for the moment I just put plugs and scotch tape but if you can help me to find what to do with, it 'll be great!
the problem is that I don't know how to do to put a picture on the post!!!
big_wasa - 10/2/20 at 12:38 PMThe "how to" thread gets more traffic and there for replies.
Really need a photo
jeanp - 1/6/20 at 06:43 PMHello!
I hope everybody is fine!
I restarted the engine in the car for the first time this afternoon
a little video:
https://studio.youtube.com/video/it3kjWm0zzs/edit
on the video it seems great, but in reality there is some problems...:
The engine idling run few minutes , but when acceletated, it stalls
After checking the fuses, I find the fuel pump relay fuse (15A) blown; So I replace a new one and I do the same and same result ; I tried third time and again!!!
I don't understand!?!?
The second thing is my fuel pump: I find it very hot after 6 minutes running (the pump is a Sytec (Bosch type 044) 200 liters/hrs),and it's close the fuel tank....not my best idea!
Can you give me some advice, or something to check, please?
Cheers
Jean
Cobra289 - 1/6/20 at 06:50 PMvideo doesn't work. (the link is incorrect)
jeanp - 1/6/20 at 08:06 PMsorry,
try with this
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=it3kjWm0zzs
big_wasa - 1/6/20 at 08:14 PMTake that gauze of the maf for a start. It upsets it for some reason.
big_wasa - 1/6/20 at 08:16 PMThat exhaust manifold will strangle it.
Cobra289 - 1/6/20 at 08:16 PMIt looks like there is a problem with the filter (clogged) or the tank pressure system.
Cobra289 - 1/6/20 at 08:23 PMquote:
Originally posted by big_wasa
Take that gauze of the maf for a start. It upsets it for some reason.
Good point!
Filter have 100x times or more that surface.
jeanp - 2/6/20 at 11:32 AMHi,
thank you for your reply!
I don't understand the meaning of:
"Take that gauze of the maf for a start. It upsets it for some reason".
Please Big Wasa, can you explain this?
Some précisions: the fuel pump and the filter (I mount it before the pump) are new
What kind of exhaust do you propose?
Cheers
Jean
jeanp - 2/6/20 at 11:57 AMI forgot
I 've check the fuel tank before filling it: it was clean
big_wasa - 2/6/20 at 12:18 PMThe pair of ladies tights or what ever it may be that is atached over the maf will upset the sensor readings and therefore the running.
jeanp - 2/6/20 at 04:16 PMRe
So, if I understand you, I have to disconnect the Mass air Flow sensor from the muff? Isn't it?
big_wasa - 2/6/20 at 04:20 PMUse a proper air filter
jeanp - 2/6/20 at 04:30 PMok understand
thank you
jeanp - 4/7/20 at 08:21 PMHi everybody!
I give you some news of my seven with the ST 170 :
I order a air filter but it 's not installed yet
I think I forgot to tell something: for the fuel line I 've read somewhere that on the Focus ST 170 the fuel line was ounting without return to the fuel tank; so I do like that!
BUT!
After explain the problem to the fuel pump seller, he ask the pump manufacturer and this one said that I have to mount a fuel regulator with a return to tank
So do I!
This afternoon , I was on track to try my new steed: it runs very well!!!
I have some other little problems about the accessory belt which squeal during the 3 first rounds and after it's ok?!?! probably the tension, but this first run was a great surprise
chears,
Jean
big_wasa - 5/7/20 at 06:47 AMThe ecu controls the pressure via the fuel pump driver modual. It’s not a great system in my opinion but NO you can’t just add a fuel reg and run it along side the the fuel pump driver modual?
jeanp - 5/7/20 at 05:24 PMHI Big wasa!
I don't understand the sense of your sentence...
In the mounting I conserved the fuel pump driver module and add a regulator: in this configuration the fuel pump doesn't force and the fuse doesn't blown too?
I test the car during half an hour yesterday it works well.....
big_wasa - 5/7/20 at 05:35 PMYour English is better than my French but we still have a communication shortfall.
The fuel pressure on the st170 is controlled by pulsewidth modulation of the pump.
The ecu rapidly turns the pump on / off to give the required pressure.
There is NO fuel pressure regulator.
jeanp - 5/7/20 at 06:07 PMre,
Yes I agree with that!
My pump is an external pump (not the original)
I think (that's what I noticed) that the pump is forcing without reg
The regulator relieve is work
I have a question: if my fuel pump driving module doesn't work , what 's going on at the engine?
jeanp - 5/7/20 at 07:05 PMRe,
about the question:
Concerning the FPDM, on the diagram, I see a transistor: if the transistor blowns, does the fpdm still works ?
I ask this question because , when I start I can hear the fuel pump running (before starting the engine, just put the buton on perm live) and with the reg the pressure is at 3 bars, but the fpdm doesn't stop the pump, so may be there is a problem with the FPDM
chears,
Jean
jeanp - 5/7/20 at 07:05 PMRe,
about the question:
Concerning the FPDM, on the diagram, I see a transistor: if the transistor blowns, does the fpdm still works ?
I ask this question because , when I start I can hear the fuel pump running (before starting the engine, just put the buton on perm live) and with the reg the pressure is at 3 bars, but the fpdm doesn't stop the pump, so may be there is a problem with the FPDM
chears,
Jean
big_wasa - 5/7/20 at 07:15 PMNo idea.
[Edited on 5/7/20 by big_wasa]