Just got back from EFI Parts where i've had my new setup by Chris

What a superb setup he has the knowledge and drivability of the car is so so so much better.

After finding out the Dyno where i had the last engine setup is known for wildly over reading BHP figures, i was always very suspect of the BHP it claimed to have, there was nothing wrong with setup just to me didn't feel like it had the power it claimed.

So after seeing a for sale advert on TurboSport for a ST170 engine that had some £££ money spent on it but was in needing of being put back together i bought the job lot, sold the original engine (which i now believe is going into a westfield)

So the new engine spec as below:

30,000 miles ST170 bottom end, new bolts and bearing throughout, 1800 Zetec flywheel fully lightened & balanced, new gaskets bolts etc etc

ST170 cylinder head with a Ian Howells conversion, removed the VVT, new cam wheel pulleys and dowelled to stop spinning, smoothed port matched inlet ports to manifold & head, exhaust ports expanded, widened and fully smoothed, all VVT oil ways converted all valves fitted & reseated.

Altiss engineering, Zetec inlet manifold fitted to a set of 2007 Hayabussa throttle bodies, bodies have been fully spaced with new fuel connections, throttle bodies have been mounted upside down so no wiring or injectors can be seen, looks very old school, original hayabussa injectors used, the inlet manifold has been matched to the cylinder head inlet ports.




Anyhow now fast forward to yesterday 6th July, the engine is now all assembled and car is loaded onto trailer for it trip down to EFI Parts@Runcorn

once strapped into the rollers Chris checked over the original map and as i suspected it wasn't very clever, so in no time all the sensors have now been calibrated correctly, and then onto the starting of the mapping
I'm always very nervous especially as the engine is freshly built, but i needed not to be worried as nothing went wrong and it all stayed together perfectly.

so after just over 3 hrs have passed we do the 1st power run


we see just over 204bhp to which i'm very very pleased about as 200bhp was the target

then some further tweaks and the 2nd run


we see 206.1bhp and the engine is still making power at the 7500rpm limiter, Chris said we can try take it further but i decided to not try and chase a couple more BHP and leave the limiter at the safe 7500rpm (i took some advice of what the standard bottom ends are good for and was told 7600rpm is fine but don't push them much more on standard rods & bolts)

So we got the car off the roller and Chris take it for a drive see what you think, Well what can i say the difference was like night & day the engine is so revvy and once past 6000rpm it comes alive and just goes and goes and compared to the old map on the old engine it would simply leave it standing.
Drivability is superb it pulls cleanly from 1500rpm and feels strong with 125ft-lb of torque from 2500rpm onwards right up to maximum 159.4ft-lb

we then came back and had a play around setting up the Lambda closed loop as i really wanted some fuel economy when going on a long drive.

To anyone who is in any doubt of what can be achieved from a ST170 engine i believe the above is proof enough that they are 200bhp engine setup correctly by a professional mapper.

Yes i know mine has a modified cylinder head which will make a difference but the work i had had done on mine wouldn't cost the earth to have done on any ST170 cylinder head & then combined with a VCT delete you have the magic 200bhp engine without the cost of cams and expensive bottom end work.

I know more could be had from the engine in midrange by keeping the VCT and changing the ECU to allow Cam Phase and PWM but it all comes down to cost and having to spent near £1000 just for a ECU to do this isn't an option for me.

I hope now anyone else who's gone down the ST170 VCT delete route isn't disappointed and they achieve the results they are after
for the 1st time of the owning the car i'm finally happy with the engine setup & with weather like this i've already burnt through £50 worth of super plus today

(next on shopping list is a better ratio gearbox mostly likely BGH HD Type 9)

Just to be clear this is a standard ST170 with some headwork but no cams/rods/pistons ? What did it make at the wheels ?

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Originally posted by jeffw
Just to be clear this is a standard ST170 with some headwork but no cams/rods/pistons ? What did it make at the wheels ?

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excellent, a good example of what can be achieved on bike bodies too

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Originally posted by FASTdan
excellent, a good example of what can be achieved on bike bodies too

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All strangely calm during the runs, most video's you see look far more frenetic.

Have I missed something, is this running on standard management?

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Originally posted by daveb666
Have I missed something, is this running on standard management?

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That's good power, just out of interest what tb's are you using? And what size?

Only thing I would say is your loosing a lot thru the transmission, normally 25bhp max, your loosing 36?

Always suggest to my customers to not bother with vvt, a delete kit (or other means) then set cam timing on the dyno for best power curve.
We did the same on a Honda type R, retained the vtec but fixed the vvt, worked great.

quote:

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Originally posted by BaileyPerformance
That's good power, just out of interest what tb's are you using? And what size?

Only thing I would say is your loosing a lot thru the transmission, normally 25bhp max, your loosing 36?

Always suggest to my customers to not bother with vvt, a delete kit (or other means) then set cam timing on the dyno for best power curve.
We did the same on a Honda type R, retained the vtec but fixed the vvt, worked great.

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quote:

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Originally posted by silky16v



Hayabusa 2007 TB's 52mm

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quote:

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Originally posted by FASTdan

quote:

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Originally posted by silky16v



Hayabusa 2007 TB's 52mm

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Thats on the inlet end though isn't it? They are 42mm at the butterfly I think - unless they got bigger over the years?

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170 Wheel HP is a good result....the crank figure is not something that is very important as there is a level of hocus pocus with all dynos/dyno operators when it comes to crank figures.

[Edited on 8/7/13 by jeffw]

Actually yes you are right, they taper down to a 48mm parallel section where the butterfly is, then taper again to 42mm at the outlet end.

Good to see Chris working his magic - really is one of the best for mapping and you get a no nonsense advice or flogging stuff you dont need

Explains why he was not at Blyton Park on Saturday

Great result, I use the adaptronic stuff on the VX220 turbo and great ECU

DG