) but 205 blocks aren't that hard to find yet (also the rods found in the 205 blocks are a little stronger)
[Edited on 26/11/2013 by mcerd1]
Does a standard 2.0 block Have enough meat for a 2.1 overbore?
Do you mean the 2L block or the 205 block ?
the 2l block has thinner liners
Standard 2l non 200 non 205 block
I think it can be done, but its not recommended as the liners can be too thin (and that would be an expensive mistake )
but 205 blocks aren't that hard to find yet (also the rods found in the 205 blocks are a little stronger)
[Edited on 26/11/2013 by mcerd1]
2.1 is not required for big power if I was doing it again I would go forged pistons + 1mm or 1.5mm
Only the 205 injection engine had the better rods ( the ones with F cast on them) and then only good for 7,200 or occasional 7,500
Don't obsess over 2.1
The standard 2.0 can be bored out to 2.1 if required, people were overboring pinto engines for years before the 205 block was introduced.
Go with what Snapper says though. Irrespective of the block, most workshops would need to carry out 2 to 3 seperate bore operations to get a standard
bore out to a true 2.1 and then theres the issue of finding pistons that will do the job wthout the need for further machining. Thats quite a bit of
money - alright to justify if you are taking the rest of the engine upto a full race spec but it's not the part of the engine to spend money on
if you are just looking to enliven the engine with another 30 to 50 bhp affordably.
If your block needs a rebore then a + 0.5mm with new pistons will do the job nicely.
If you are looking for more power affordably you would be best to spend a bit on the head and cam. Even changing to the later injected head (the one
that came with the 205 block) will improve things. Skim it a bit to raise compression, add a fast road cam then look at carburation.
Can be done on a non 205 block but early engines such as those from the 1970's suffered from core shift and there was a much greater risk of
failure.
RJD used to do 2.1 engine kits based on the non 205 block (as at that time they were still a bit too new) with reasonable success.
If your're racing or competing then go for a 205 block - if its just for fast road then a non 205 block should be Ok
If you're after a 2.1 205 block I might be able to help
BV.
Even removing all that material out of it the engine will still weigh as much as a boat anchor and be less reliable.
If you compare cost per BHP gained i would go the route of swamping the pig iron for a zetec, keep your gearbox and carbs and swap to the lighter
alloy engine.
[Edited on 27/11/13 by hkp57]
I'm a fan of the Zetec engine but there is little virtue in making sweeping statements without pointing out there is a fair bit more to be
considered in a conversion than just the cost of getting hold of a useable Zetec lump.
Inlet: You will need to lay out for the right manifold and carb/ s.
ignition & engine wiring loom.
exhaust,
bonnet cut outs; replace bonnet or fill in the large hole, match gel coat or paint.
Flywheel and clutch, is it right for a type 9 as it is ? Many use the CVH flywheel which would have to be obtained
Engine mounts, not a big thing but will need to be done.
water pipes etc.
Shorten sump and oil pickup etc
Against that the prospect of some head work on a pinto to bring it up to Zetec levels of bhp makes a lot of sense.
[Edited on 27/11/2013 by Not Anumber]
quote:
Originally posted by Not Anumber
If you are looking for more power affordably you would be best to spend a bit on the head and cam. Even changing to the later injected head (the one that came with the 205 block) will improve things. Skim it a bit to raise compression, add a fast road cam then look at carburation.
) 205 engine in the for sale section at the moment