as above really. i need help splitting the crankcase as I have melted 3 pistons 
iv took head off first to see what damage I had. so now I need to
split the crank case, iv managed to undo what I think is everything, and the case is split the hole way across apart from the last 1cm rotor side. do
I need to take the rotor off is that my problem?? like I say the case is off apart from this
many thanks
Haven't worked on any bike engines since the 70s but I would have thought you would have to remove the rotor and any internal backplate before you can seperate the crankcases
Pretty sure the stator thing inside the rotor is bolted to both halves of the casing.
thanks for your comments. but just found many cracks across the valves on the head so would not be surprised if the bores are cracked also as it
got that hot it melted 3 pistons. think I need a new engine
Any ideas what caused the failure?
I turbo'd it on completely std internals at 8 psi so yeah my own fault. but it lasted 4 hours on the rollers sweet as a nut. the thing on my mind
is when it started running rough I thought id check the plugs, to my amazement they was not even hand tight (I mean really loose) and the washer on
the plugs was not even squashed from new? would this of caused it to get 2 hot?
loose plugs should not make it run hot.
Standard internals should be able to hold 8psi, it must have been running weak if you did not hear any pinking.
What you mean running weak? (I had it set up by pdq straight away) so I thought it would be running ok he said he set it up for 12.8 afr. Would it be because I never touched the ignition timing? I really don't no what caused it to get that hot and would love to no. And never herd any noise ( what's linking)
Pinking is the engine knocking because of pre-ignition, high pitched rattling sound.
12.8 is rich so that's not the cause unless it's something related such as the fuel pressure regulator failing or low fuel pressure making
it run lean and burning it up, when it was on the rollers he would have alerted you if it was pinking then.
Once you get it back together I suggest you get a wide band sensor and watch it like a hawk, my blade engine has been thrashed for many hours around
various tracks on standard internals.
When it went bang I am guess you were on light throttle as giving it the beans quickly builds the speed up, do you know what the AFR was at 1/4
throttle?
To be honnest I have a aem wideband fitted . But when in the rollers he said my wb was reading different to his? And he said it could of been where I had positioned it. So never really kept a close eye on it to be honnest. When it played up I took my friend out, Guv it loads like you do then took his dad out and when I backed off for the last time as we was almost home I noticed it was missing (sounded like it was on 3 cyclinders) stopped and it blow the d shape rocker cover open like a door and chucked about 300mil of oil out. Like I say would love to no what caused it as going to build a forged engine and don't want the same to happen. Any advice tips would be great
Consider easy things to start off with
was it low on fuel with an unbaffled tank?
Have a look at the fuel filter, is it blocked?
Failing FPR
Over boosting to do with the Vacumm tubes dropping off keeping the wastegate closed (did it feel exceptionally fast just before going bang, I have an
overboost cutout configured which has saved me a couple of times).
Really anything that could cause it to run weak, it may only take a few seconds to start damaging things, as three Pistons out of 4 are stuffed it has
to be something generic.
Was it anything to do with the thread you put up about the slides in throttle bodies not opening fully?
I personally think if the tuner said the power was the same at 80% throttle as it was at WOT it wasn't totally set up correctly, either boost
control or fueling/air flow had issues.
I would have hoped they would have detuned it and told you it had issues that needed sorting before running it flat out on the road?
Just a thought I have a torques fpr rising rate 1:1 new cost me 149 pound. I think it was a 50 psi before it was tuned and he never touched it so maybe the std fuel pump can't flow enough? As I have herd the fuel pump a few times sounding like it's working hard? And some times it was at 9 psi when held wide open
That's your problem, it should be 50psi at full chat, I run a v12 jaguar pump on mine as it can flow loads of fuel and has nice barbed
fittings.
You leaned out and burnt it out.
I would be looking at a straight engine replacement, forget forged parts for now, replace the pump and fit a corse filter between the tank and pump
and a big injection filter between the pump and engine, mine is off a 928 Porsche so I know it can again flow a lot.
Also check fuel lines, they may be collapsing between the tank and pump + the pickup could be blocked (the pump should not be changing its noise much,
sounds like a blockage or knackered)
As mark says. Fuel pressure/supply problem.
I'd also go for a stocker 5pw. Mine coped fine with 7psi.
PDQ are very very good and have set up 2 of my BECs but they where both N/A.
Do yourself a favour and speak to Sean at Bigcc racing in Wokingham if you need a turbo bike engine tuned. They have a car dyno and anything those
boys don't know about boosted bikes isn't worth knowing.
Cheers for the info I have the stock pump in the bottom of my tank so do I need a upgraded direct replacement to go in the tank, as I don't no
how to go about it
Thanks again
Is there anyway I can check that my fpr is good even tho I can't start the car as the engines out? Just so I can iliminate that
I used an external bosch 044 pump.
Some use the Walbro 255ltr/hr pump which is commonly used on jap car tuning
I would say that 12.8 is too lean on an engine that you are running close to the limit. 11.5 would be much safer.
Fuel pressure should be 3 bar/43.5 psi at idle and it should increase when your boost increases, so at 10psi boost, fuel pressure should be 53.5psi
Adding the ability to control ignition timing will definitely help you save your engine.
To check the FPR, connect the FPR to throttle bodies and connect the return line, just like it's plumbed to run the engine. Then run the pump,
check fuel pressure. Then using a blowgun from a compressor, apply pressure to the vac port on the FPR (Careful, don't blast 150psi down it). Set
your compressor reg to 10-20psi, when you apply this pressure to the vac port, you should see fuel pressure rise the same amount.
Another vote for BigCC racing, doesn't sound like your tuner got everything sorted or explained everything to you.
quote:
Originally posted by jlayton
Is there anyway I can check that my fpr is good even tho I can't start the car as the engines out? Just so I can iliminate that
To use a external fuel pump I take it I have to remove the intank pump? How do I do it as its got all the std setup in the bottom of the tank
quote:
Originally posted by jlayton
I turbo'd it on completely std internals at 8 psi so yeah my own fault. but it lasted 4 hours on the rollers sweet as a nut. the thing on my mind is when it started running rough I thought id check the plugs, to my amazement they was not even hand tight
quote:
Originally posted by jlayton
To use a external fuel pump I take it I have to remove the intank pump? How do I do it as its got all the std setup in the bottom of the tank
I have a friend who's a great ally welder so prob better off modifying my tank for external pump by the sounds. Cars in pieces so no rush at the minute
Swirl pot is best fed with a low pressure pump, just dump the in tank pump, extend the pickup rod to just above the floor and have a slot cut at the end so it cannot get blocked with a flat piece of rubbish.
is there not a uprated direct replacement fuel pump for these, if so as anyone got a link for 1
If your car is say pushing £220hp, then to drive the turbo another 30hp, i cannot think of any factory bikes that can push 250hp so it's unlikely you will get an uprated bike pump to support your requirements, why risk another engine?
I just panic alot. Is it a case of making a lower part to the tank with 2 connections (flow and return) for an external fuel pump. Is it as easy as that
I cant find a replacement engine so could I fit say a 04 onwards engine in my car and will my ecu etc run it with no modifications.
thanks