I have an R1 engined Fisher Fury (ex-RGB racer) with independent rear suspension and a Freelander diff with a Quaife ATB.
I lost all drive on a trackday a month ago (accompanied by some horrendous grating noises which sounded like splines slipping/jumping) and when I got
the car home and inspected the diff and suspension I notice one of the driveshafts had sheared at a weld (hence the lost drive) and the diff magnetic
filler plug had some shards of metal on it.
So I've had the diff service (new bearings and spring pack) by Quaife who gave it the ok and the driveshaft cleaned up and re-welded by Steve at
Furysportscars
So today I've got it all back together and on starting it up with the rear suspension loaded on axlestands under the wishbones I still get the
horrendous grating noise, coming I think from the hub of the driveshaft that was repaired.
I have a trackday booked for a week on Saturday (15th) and am now in danger of wasting the money on that because I don't know how to diagnose and
repair the problem, and Furysportscars are a long way from me and booked up anyway.
Is there anyone local who could offer some diagnostics/suggestion of how to sort this out?
thanks in advance
Mike
I trust the brakes aren't rubbing?
Could you have knackered the wheel bearing at the same time?
Were the joints on the driveshaft checked?
[Edited on 4/7/17 by stevebubs]
It's not the brakes as I've just changed the pads and the clearances are fine
I've tried running it again on the axle stands and at low revs (tickover in first) it makes an awful noise like splines jumping, if I apply the
brakes and a bit more throttle to load up the drive train it still makes the noise at low revs. If I give it more revs, with the brakes on or off, the
noise goes away which is confusing. And no it's not just a bit of chatter, its very load and a mechanically painful sound
It will likely be fine when it is on its wheels.
Thats what I'm hoping but what makes you think that?
With a bike engined car on axle stands you'll get horrendous noise running it in gear. It's caused by having no flywheel to smooth out the power pulses from the engine and that rattles through the transmission... And yes it sounds really bad. Is there any noise/grating just rotating the wheels by hand? If not try it on the ground.
what he said ^^^^^
quote:
Originally posted by Edge
Thats what I'm hoping but what makes you think that?
As it happens when I put it all back together last Sunday it was making that noise with the chassis on stands and the rear suspension in full droop. I
was gutted as it sounded just as it did on the trackday when I lost drive (which turned out to be a snapped drive shaft not the Diff).
So in desperation, thinking it might not like the full suspension droop scenario I drove as fast as I could to the end of my drive before braking hard
(as its an ex race car so I can't take it on the road), I pushed it back in the garage and did it again and managed to get into 2nd gear. And I
thought it's not making any unusual noises now.
Then someone on Pistonheads suggested getting it jacked up under the wishbones so the suspension was loaded. So today I did that and the noise was
there so I knew it wasn't a droop issue so assumed its just fcuked! Sounds like this is a common feature of BECs.
I shall trailer it to a car park I have access to at the weekend and try it out properly and report back.
Oh and I sent an email describing the issue with a video of it ticking over and making this horrendous noise to Steve Hughes at FurySportsCars,
he's just replied saying try it on the ground as they can make this noise on the stand, so that aligns with what you guys are saying.
Thanks for the advice, I feel more confident now!