Hello guys, I have been toying with the idea of fitting a 1.8t into my kit car but I’ve been thinking about a hayabusa engine,
I would be buying the whole bike as the donor, I was wondering if anyone who has done this can give me any heads up to the problems I’m going to
encounter.
I have a Haynes roadster with a pinto currently.
I was also wondering how to go about making some mounts, and how to get from the gearbox to the diff , current one being Sierra running gear.
Thanks!
I went from 1700 xflow to Kawasaki zx9.
Are you making the engine cradle etc or buying.
Not too sure, I’ve seen some solid brackets made on the Internet, how much would a cradle cost me?
And also with mounting you aboviously get the gearbox in-line with the prop? That’s why the engines are so offset right?
That’s my only worry really is mounting.
Here is a list of what to consider:
http://www.locostbuilders.co.uk/forum/9/viewthread.php?tid=90943
Regards
Hugh
cracking cheers mate
quote:
Originally posted by hughpinder
Here is a list of what to consider:
http://www.locostbuilders.co.uk/forum/9/viewthread.php?tid=90943
Regards
Hugh
You don't want the prop adapter directly in line with the diff,universal joints need to operate on slight angles, if you run them straight they
will soon knacker up
Wow thanks, keep feeding me all the information!
When you say far back you mean to the rear of the car?
In a seven type BEC you want the engine as far forward as possible,as they are very light on the front end.
Obvs need to take into consideration where the exhaust manifold will be,for clearance from the wheels on full lock
Have a read up on the oil system for a Busa in a car too,ideally you want a dry sump system to be as safe as possible,but if for road use people get
away with swinging pick ups and modified wet sump.
[Edited on 4/9/18 by CosKev3]
I shall have a read on that, does the clutch take the abuse of the weight or is that something that will need sorting?
As for the sump will it need shortening? I suppose you want to mount it as low as possible.
Not 100% sure on a busa, but most bike engine standard sumps need replacing with a BEC one.
You need to get the height of the engine as close to bonnet as possible,to give yourself as much ground clearance as possible between sump and road, a
dry sump helps here as it can be much smaller and flat.
Okay sweet cheers bud, might skip on the dry sump until abit later as they seem to be around 1k+
Just need to finish the old mans little Landy project then out with the pinto!
Thanks for the pointers. !
A Busa conversion is not cheap,even high mileage bikes are 3-4 grand before you start with buying the parts to fit into a car.
any other bike engines you can suggest with a decent output?
Not in a mad rush so i can try and pick some cheap ones off, just need to do loads of research as most of it was into the other car engine..
*If* you do decide to use the Busa engine see the use of a dry sump set up as an insurance policy
As said above they aren't a cheap option and its expensive if it all goes pearshaped
Personally not a fan of bike engines in a 7 but some owners get them to work really well
Depends on what you intend to use the car for in the long run
Just after a toy to be honest, something that’s loud and fast, not going to do many miles.
Plan is for some track days, always tinkering so reliability isn’t key.
Andy Bates (AB Perfomance) can give you the heads up in clutch modifications required
Updated springs mainly but may need a change of plates and drive discs
I would stick with a car engine! Those bike engine cars just haven’t got the sheer grunt for the road :-) just my own opinion ( age old argument)
Could do with experiencing a bike engine one to be honest, in the West Midlands if anyone doesn’t mind? :-)
Hello, another question, I know obviously the bike engine are hard mounted would it be beneficial to add some rubber mounts or bushing to my home made engine cradle?
Westfield do things with a simple top frame, bolted to each corner of the engine bay, with the centre dropping down a bracket to the crankcase. Bottom
frame is less complex, a planar triangle, simply supporting the lower crankcase. It works.
Picture is my GSXR1000 installation in a Westfield. The car has gone, but the engine and installation kit (ECU, exhaust, etc.) largely remain.
It's potentially available if you're interested, but not cheaply, plenty of 'that sort of stuff' out there.
I had a ZX9R E in mine, cracking engine and only a few hundred quid, not thousands.
I swapped it for a Jag 3litre V6. love the Jag engine, miss the bike engine
Loads of photos in my archive
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Move the video on to around 8:40 to cut out the boring bits
[Edited on 11-9-18 by 40inches]
cheers guys, I’ve already got the bike I want in mind, just trying to get my head around mounting it, as far as your pictures go it seems to be box
section running in a square to each corner like you said, and then a triangle pointing down towards the floor and then across to the bottom of the
chassis? I’ll try draw something out later
Thanks
excuse the worlds worst drawing but you might understand what I’m getting at, I would use brackets to attach to the cradle.
Just a top frame that holds the engine front mounts with a tube across the back for the top rear engine mount
like this http://www.mksportscars.com/parts/bike-engine-car-parts/mk-indy-bike-engine-cradle.html
That is held by 4 tabs on the chassis, you can see them in this photo, and the the bottom gearbox mounts onto 2 welded in supports
you can just make them out, bottom of photo
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One of the gearbox mounts visible in this photo
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A discussion here http://www.locostbuilders.co.uk/forum/23/viewthread.php?tid=33225
Do a search for engine cradle.
Jacko made one
top frame
[Edited on 11-9-18 by 40inches]
[Edited on 11-9-18 by 40inches]
Brilliant, thanks for that, maybe I was over thinking it.