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X flow dipstick ?
lukefab - 10/4/05 at 02:06 PM

Hi , I Know this is a daft question, but is the dipstick on the 1300 the same as the dipstick on the 1600??
I have taken the old 1300 engine out and put in I think a 1600, still using the old dipstick.
Can I rely on it giving a accurate reading?

Thanks!


irvined - 10/4/05 at 05:33 PM

Hello,

Whilst we're talking about dipsticks...

In my haste to get the engine in the car, i lost the dipstick. I've seen plenty of dipsticks over the last month or so, but unfortunatly none of them are for a crossflow.

Would anybody mind telling me the lengths etc, Ideally I need to know the distance from the high/low marks on the dipstick to where the dipstick comes out (Not the end of the plastic tube.)

All i know at the moment is I've got too much oil, as everytime i get a bit antisocial with the revs, the engine bay gets sprayed in oil.

HTH

David


Marcus - 10/4/05 at 06:53 PM

May not be too much oil. If your engine bay is getting covered, you've probably got a blocked breather - check this first.
If you're throwing blue smoke out of the exhaust when you give it stick, you may have too much oil.
Are your plugs oiling up? Thet'a another sign of too much oil.

Marcus


Marcus - 10/4/05 at 06:55 PM

PS sorry about the thread hijack!
I think the 1300 sump is a little shallower

MArcus


stevebubs - 10/4/05 at 07:35 PM

quote:
Originally posted by irvined
Hello,

Whilst we're talking about dipsticks...

In my haste to get the engine in the car, i lost the dipstick. I've seen plenty of dipsticks over the last month or so, but unfortunatly none of them are for a crossflow.

Would anybody mind telling me the lengths etc, Ideally I need to know the distance from the high/low marks on the dipstick to where the dipstick comes out (Not the end of the plastic tube.)

All i know at the moment is I've got too much oil, as everytime i get a bit antisocial with the revs, the engine bay gets sprayed in oil.

HTH

David


David,

If it's any use, I've a spare dipstick in my pile of bits due to go to the tip...would you like it?


irvined - 10/4/05 at 07:40 PM

Certainly would if you don't mind.

Its a bit smokey, but i've only just got it runing properly, spent the last few evenings wondering why it was rougher than a very rough thing, eventually found a vacuum hose which wasnt connected to anything, i think it was probably meant to go to the servo.

Wheres the breather? I've checked the oil seperator is ok, which is where it comes out.

Many thanks.



David


Marcus - 10/4/05 at 07:50 PM

The top connection of the oil separator should go into the inlet manifold, if it's open to the elements, you may get an oily engine bay!

Marcus


lukefab - 10/4/05 at 08:03 PM

Thanks Marcus !


rusty nuts - 10/4/05 at 08:16 PM

An oil catch tank may help?


irvined - 11/4/05 at 03:55 PM

quote:
Originally posted by Marcus
The top connection of the oil separator should go into the inlet manifold, if it's open to the elements, you may get an oily engine bay!

Marcus


Hi Marcus,

At present, the seal is missing between the hose, and the oil seperator, i've got a replacement kicking around somewhere which I'll try.

I suspect its a combination of all of the above problems. I'm not too worried yet

Thanks


David


Kitlooney1000 - 11/4/05 at 08:50 PM

Warning-----
Dont connect the oil breather direct to the inlet manifold via the servo connection.
1. it will bugger your mixture.
2. it will cause negative pressure in the block and your engine will run lile a bag of Sh*t, if at all!!
It is supposed to go into the bottom of the air filter or a breather/ catch tank
As i found out the hard way

Lew


irvined - 12/4/05 at 12:26 PM

Hello.

At present, Theres the oil seperator, then a metal valve - looks like its a one way valve.

That then goes all the way into the manifold.

There used to be a T piece which then went to the servo which I've removed.

Is there something else missing?

I'll try and get a photo of it when im back home.


D

[Edited on 12/4/05 by irvined]


David Jenkins - 12/4/05 at 12:33 PM

The X-flow is designed to vent its crankcase straight into the inlet manifold - but via the PCV valve (Positive Crankcase Ventilation)

Quoting from the Burtons pages:

quote:

To avoid upsetting the fuel/air mixture, the PCV valve must regulate the evacuation of these blow-by gases and vapours (which will be minimal at idling speed but will intensify as engine speed is increased). Since manifold vacuum is highest at low engine speeds, the PCV plunger will be drawn forward to a position that will restrict crankcase ventilation to a minimum thus ensuring no unsettlement of the air/fuel mixture. As engine speeds are increased the manifold vacuum will drop thus reducing the pull on the plunger which will slide back to a midway position allowing a greater flow rate from the crankcase. Since the engine demands more fuel/air mixture at high engine speeds, the escalation of crankcase vapours into the combustion chambers should not affect performance.

The PCV valve also acts as a flame trap. In the event of a backfire, the resulting pressure through the inlet manifold will force the plunger back into the closed position, thus preventing an explosion of the vapours in the crankcase. Various PCV systems are in use but they all function in essentially the same way. Earlier systems were known as open systems that still allowed some vapours to vent to atmosphere via the filler cap. Closed PCV systems have been the norm for some time now, whereby the filler caps are not vented and air is recirculated via the air filter. Left unchecked over a period of time a PCV system will deteriorate and may cause major engine problems as outlined above. Regular maintenance is essential with some manufacturers recommending the renewal of the PCV valve at every major service interval.



This valve is in a tin box that plugs into the inlet side of the block. It's easy to strip and clean. If it's knackered or missing then a catch tank may be a good idea (but you have to empty it occasionally).

David

[Edited on 12/4/05 by David Jenkins]