finaly got garage built and can at last start planning building car. i intend to use a rover v8,mated to sierra running gear. ineed information on adaptor plates clutch plates and covers etc. thanks

A Sierra gearbox wouldn't last very long on the back of a V8 unless it's a T5 Cosworth box.

I have built a Rover V8 powered Locost using the McSorley 7+4" plans and using the Rover SD1 Vitesse LT77 standard gearbox. It's quite big and fairly heavy but it goes in...

A recent thread talked about a Toyota Supra gearbox and adapter plate being an option. I think it was "Rorty" who posted during the last week or two if you try a search.

Cheers,
Craig.

Biggest pain for me with the LT77 was the damn remote, Put the box in before riviting up the tunnel sides!!
Guess how I know that!. and I have a Big old Viento!

one of our current projects is a v8 in one of our vortx cars this is using the bmw getrag box on a alloy bellhousing converter

the box is tiny will take some pics tomorrow and post will also find out where the bell housing came from

best regards

marc

Geoff,
I'm not sure what you mean about the remote and currently my tunnel sides are not yet rivetted... Is there something I should know???

Cheers,
Craig.

Rescued attachment Finished gearbox.JPG

[Edited on 8-5-2005 by Donners90]
Rescued attachment sherpa remote.JPG

The problem I found, even in the Viento is that the spring mechanism on the right of of the gearstick makes the SD1 remote too wide to fit in the chassis, unless it is mounted way too far forward in the vehicle.

It is possible to modify the SD1 remote and make it shorter, (I have an old one you can have to play with if you want it) but the far easier way is to use the remote from a Sherpa van. The only problem is that the linkage makes for a slightly more vague (van - like) gearchange.

I picked my remote up for £5 in a scrappers, but had to get a new linkage bearing from my local LDV dealer!

WRT the tunnel panels, make sure the gearbox / remote combination fits in the chassis where you want it before rivetting the panels as it makes moving and centering the box much easier! I am assuming Geoff found out the hard way

HTH

James

[Edited on 8-5-2005 by Donners90]

Think some jags used a version of LT 77 box with a different length of remote , possibly between the SDI and Sherpa ? used by Marcos in the Mantula , Maybe someone else can help?

hi
i'm close to actually fitting my rv8 & lt77 in the viento, but was told to use the sd1 remote, is that not correct ?,
Donners90 it looks as thought your gearchange will be under the dash ????

I just used the SD1 remote and it is in virtually the perfect position as far as I can tell, having fitted my handbrake and seats. In fact, it is not quite far enough back and the gearknob will hit the dash in 1st, 3rd, 5th and reverse gears but I can easily fix this by bending the lever backwards about 30 degrees.

As for the spring mechanism on the LT77 fouling the tunnel, you are right - it is close but since my tunnel was made to measure, I took this into account when building the chassis.

Cheers,
Craig.

Yep, the sherpa remote brings the lever out under the dash. I fitted an S shape bar to bring it out to a comfortable distance. As far as I can tell, it hasn't changed the dynamics of the gearchange, but then again I haven't driven the car that much. I guess once I'm used to it, it will be fine. Personal preference I guess.

I'll try a find a pic when I get home.

Not quite finished yet, but you get the idea.
Rescued attachment lever.jpg

Mine is a stock Std Viento chassis. I have the Long SD1 remote, and it just (only just) goes in. I have the box and engine back as far as I can get it,and its tight. The side springs on the back of the remote, just fit behind the vertical box section at the bottom of the Narrow end of the tunnel. I also cut away about 1 inch of the chassis plate (gearbox support plate) on the front edge, so I could get the box back a bit further.

The back mounting of the long remote is on an upside down "U" bracket. The bolts in the side of the "U" cant be got in with the tunnel side panels in, and if you fit the U bracket only, the two bolts in the bottom of the "U" go in upside down into the ally of the remote and are a bugger to fit.

In the end I dropped the box in with just the U bracket fitted (no ally remote), and then canted the back of the remote downwards, so I could slip my hand in between the gearbox and the remote. Fitted the two bolts in the bottom flat of the "U" (upside down ones into the bottom of the remote) , tightened them up and then canted the remote into its normal position and fitted the two bolts to the top of the back of the gearbox.
Then I tightened up the two bolts in each end of the "U" (in the sides of the gearbox).

It was a PIG... and took me all afternoon to fit just those 4 bolts. Fit the remote BEFORE fitting the side panels. Its MUCH easier. You dont need to fit the side panels (of the Transmission Tunnel) early on. You can leave it till later. Driver side panel fits before the pedal box, and do the clutch pedal before the brakes (not like it says in the manual.

Any probs and I will take some photos to explain my ramblings above!. U2U me if you want, I can take piccys and put them in my archive.


PS... I think it was worth the agony, as the gearlever is level (front to rear wise)with the steering wheel, which will mean my hand will just drop onto the lever. ie no stretching or reaching over to get to it.

SOD It.... Ill do some photos this evening, and put them in the archive. - Geoff

Hi Geoff,
Thanks for your explanation, I think I get the idea. Can I assume that you couldn't just fit the gearbox with the remote attached then? I fitted my gearbox complete with remote and gearlever and although the gearlever was a bit of a pain (and could easily have been removed...) the remote itself didn't cause me any problems.

I am using the original SD1 gearbox mountin g slightly modified to suit and this is welded to the chassis. To fit my gearbox I just lower it into the engine bay and guide it into the tunnel. It then needs to be lifted slightly to engage the two rubber mounts with the bracket on the chassis. I then need to support the front of the gearbox and raise the front slightly when fitting the engine to allow the splined shaft to engage. This is a bit tight but not any worse than your typical FWD gearbox to engine fitment.

I'll be fitting my tunnel side soon but I might just fit one rivet in each corner for now in case I come across any problems...

Thanks again,
Craig.

Piccies in my Archive under Viento build.
Hope they help.. Got quite a few, so will take while to load up.
Time 21:20 and starting now.


UPDATE... All Loaded 20 Mins later!! All Labelled and at the bottom of the list in My Archive, under Viento Build.

Anyone want me to take more, let me know. Its a Luego Viento Chassis, and LT77 Gearbox with a Rover V8 up Front.

It Sounds AWESOME with NO Fanimolds or Pipes, Let alone Cans!



[Edited on 10/5/2005 by wilkingj]

Here's my SD1 remote - only thing I modded was lever itself - cut off at base of stem and welded at "front" of base to prevent contact with h/brake.

Get engine/box etc together and hang over chassis to position.

ATB

Simon
Rescued attachment 2005_0510Image0002.JPG