so the car came out today to try and see if the clutch was seized

after a few trial runs with the back on stands - low and behold it was working!wheels spinning nicely with changes through all 4 gears

But then just as i started to get all excited it stopped....

now it changes gear ok(ish) but the rear wheels are not spinning, they are kind of turning intermitantly...if you can imagine what i mean, they turn a bit, stick, turn a bit more, I can move them by hand though.

Sooo while im in a good enough mood to handle bad news, answers on a postcard please!

Thanks guys

Alex

It sounds as if your clutch release bearing is sticking.

Ok so solution is replace it, or keep trying it and itll loosen up?

Sorry if that sounds daft i just got my head round the engine bit and now something new i know sweet fa about breaks lol

Just jack one of the rear wheels up and try again, as long as you don't have a limited slip diff. It sounds like the diff is doing its job and driving the wheel with the least resistance and you are mistaking it for clutch slip.

Could be that the center plate has broken/linings come off , broken gearbox but unlikely or possibly broken diff/halfshaft. Is the prop rotating when in gear ? If so then it's probably the latter, if not probably clutch

quote:

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Originally posted by Peteff
Just jack one of the rear wheels up and try again, as long as you don't have a limited slip diff. It sounds like the diff is doing its job and driving the wheel with the least resistance and you are mistaking it for clutch slip.

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Could be the brakes are grabbing are slowing/stoping one of the wheels and making it less clear what's going on.

so if i drop the wheel thats spinning and try with just the one that isnt raised it should spin...err problem being if it doesnt and the other wheel does, car drives off its stand!

Is there any way you can chock the currently spinning wheel? Bricks etc? THe other wheel should then spin as normal. Mst diffs won't run quite even with no weight due to slightly uneven brakes/handbrake, different length drive shafts/ loads of other silly little things.

mwhaha thats done it!

still not happy going into gear though...i think thats the clutch cable i can adjust that though as long as its working, right off for a quick spat round the block before it gets dark!

p.s. if im not back in 3 hours you want to call the RAC :-P

Humph didnt get much further than the drive!

I noticed one thing, i dont remember starting the car in neutral and then going into first...well whether i did or i didnt, its not doing it now!

Refuses point blank to go into gear (unless engine is off)

Me figures clutch is buggered/in wrong (as was first thought plate is in wrong way round) or the release bearing is shot.

All these equal engine or gearbox out

My other thought is it could be the clutch cable is too loose, doesnt appear to be but ill have an innocent bystander (parents are very useful!) help check that before i tear the car to bits

Seems for one reason or another the clutch isn't engaging/disengaging enough. Before you tear it apart, check you have full movement on the clutch arm, and that the cable moves freely. If poss, have a look through the arm hole and see if things look correct. Might help before you rip things apart.

Checked in hole before, and tbh i dont know enough about clutched to recognise tell very much through there

The cable is very stiff (it was never the lightest though iirc) and i can see the arm moving fine when someone else is on the clutch

If you can get the car up in the air and get under it with a torch, get someone to operate the clutch. Look through the hole and see how far the arm moves and if it moves/touches the clutch fingers. If it touches the plates and stops/becomes really stiff, the clutch is fitted incorrectly. If it doesn't reach the clutch, the release bearing is the wrong one as it is too short/ something is stopping the arm moving far enough.

The bearing cant be the wrong one it used to work fine with this clutch before - its just been moved from old xflow to new xflow

the cars gonna have to go away for tonight got to sort out new discs and pads for the tin top too! busy busy busy ill let you know how i get on

Thanks

Alex

Just a wild thought but if one of the friction plates has sheared it's rivet fixings or thyey've corroded through then it could be corroded to the flywheel (difficult in going into gear with the engine running) and it would also allow the whhels to turn while under a no load scenario. It is along shot as I say so it looks like an engine/box separation jobbie to find the problem mate.


If this is the case then it will be possible to engage a gear and push the car without the engine turning (like a slipping clutch)

[Edited on 31/5/06 by omega 24 v6]

quote:

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Originally posted by omega 24 v6

If this is the case then it will be possible to engage a gear and push the car without the engine turning (like a slipping clutch)

[Edited on 31/5/06 by omega 24 v6]

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Did u use the same flywheel when u changed the engine? If not are they definately the same? Im not a crossflow man so i dont know if there ar different thicknesses etc so may be wrong.

Other than that sounds like a dodgey clutch. The only real way to tell is whip the lot out. Trying bits and bobs to see if it cures it is kinda a waste of time. youl only end up taking it out anyway.

If its not been right since u changed the engine it may be just a case of the plate in wrong way round.

Thats what I suspect. shouldnt have been such a cheapskate and bought a new clutch that still have the correct side marked clearly!

Anyway decided its coming to bits, will probably split the prop and take the gearbox out cos putting the engine in was a SOB i dont wanna do it again!